TexasEd

Still looking for a good deal on one. Not an urgent need so I'll hold out for a deal. Even a repro that someone doesn't need would be fine.

Love the color. Did you reverse the hood opening back to front with the cowl hood?

Thanks. My shifter light is out, I assumed it was the bulb, where does the shifter light wire plug in? I do have a vacuum line going to the C4 actuator. It is the thick hose you see arching away. I used a fuel line because the one under the car was cut so I wanted a sturdier line and just used another piece of it for up top. I'm going to replace the tank. I need to find a way to dispose of the tank and old gas.

Glad you found it.

I lived near Wurzbach & Lockhill-Selma where we got the car and near Grissom and Braun when my parents divorced. I was out of state from 1984 to 96 except for the 85-86 school year.

I got the rebuild kit for the Holley 2300 in the mail last week along with a set of valve cover gaskets. Since I'm going to rebuild the carb, my fuel sender does not work, and the rubber lines connecting the steel gas lines are brittle I decided to drain the gas tank and start over with new gas. I thought it only had about 5 gallons in it but it kept going and going. I ended up with 15 gallons of old gas out of the car. My brother must have filled it up before he put it on the truck to me. While the gas was draining I decided to remove the gas cap and fill neck so I could look into the tank. I started getting worried when I saw the rubber connector between the neck and the tank was hard at the top and tore. The bottom was bulged out and soft enough to put your finger through. When I looked into the tank it looked like barnacles were growing in it like a pier at low tide. So now I'll be getting a new gas tank.

My next step was to degrease and pressure wash the engine. I was able to read some more areas on the engine. There does not seem to be a VIN stamped on the block. The steering box buck tag says: SMB D 9A20B Is the rag joint supposed to have that bent part? I also found this loose wire behind the block. Anyone know what it is supposed to plug into? Is that what the vacuum tree is supposed to look like?

I did a lot of work today. First I warmed up the car to do a compression test. After having some problems getting the tester to seat all the way and getting readings of 60 PSI on the first two cylinders I went back and tried again with more success. I thought it looked ok, but then I don't know too much so let me know what y'all think. This is a 302-2V cylinders 1 through 8 145, 145, 130, 145, 155, 155, 150, 145 Here are two of the spark plugs. They are Autolite and had the number 45 on them. I think they look ok for a car that was intentionally set to run rich. I'll fix that after rebuilding the carburetor.

I'm interested because I assumed they were just left black plastic.

bummer

F.O. = Firing Order He needs to look someplace else for the casting/part number

Welcome to the forum. Looks like a good platform to get started.

Congrats! I'm looking forward to that feeling. I've limped around the block but she's not really roadworthy. My car hasn't been inspected since 2001 or registered since 2007 and the last time I drove it was around 1994.

I recently checked my intake manifold for a 302 and it has the part number: C8AE-9425-B You can see it on top of the intake running up under the front of the carburetor. There should also be a date code that you can see if it matches up with the build date for your car. Mine was 9A17 which should be 1969 Jan 17 which is good because my car was built in January.

Anyone done a CSRP Conversion to power discs? I have drums now and have to decide to go power or manual disc.

I used to think I wanted 17" wheels, but the more I look at the 15" Magnum 500s the more my mind is set on going that route.

Yeah, when I need to see how something should be I come search this thread as a reference first.

Thanks, I'll go to ACE and look this week. I've got a return to send back to CJ Pony now. I guess the "Lever return" in that spring's description refers to the pedal lever.

I got the spring I ordered yesterday and it isn't the spring for the lever return like I was hoping, it is much too big in diameter and too long. I'm pretty sure it is the spring that goes on the cable under the car. Anyone have an idea on where to get a spring the right size for this?

I know how you feel but that's not the end of the world.

I'm running with a PCV from the current heads on the passenger side and a breather cap on the other right now. When I was finished restoring my original parts I planned on putting the PCV back to the carb spacer or where it is now and using the original black breather with hose to the air cleaner port. Is there a better setup?

This is why I think mine is connected to the starter solenoid. If you leave the key in the run position it drains the battery and the wiring looks like it runs that way under the electrical tape. Here is my original spacer and Autolite Carburetor tag. The tag is actually easier to read in the picture (magnified) than in person. The top line is clear but the second is hard to read the third character but from a search I think it says: C9AF A A-9A 14 Which would be an original carb for a 302-2V with automatic transmission (like mine). So it is probably the original carb. I wonder what that caulk looking substance is for? It looks like that is where a part of the throttle linkage is supposed to connect based on this picture: I might want to put this carb back on eventually but might opt for a professional rebuild and restoration.

Cool, Keep us up to date on your progress.

This would explain why my valance is loose on one side, thanks.

I think its called rocker molding. I've seen some threads where people weld up the holes and leave it bare after a repaint. Maybe all you need are new retention nuts.