TexasEd

I'd love to see the white upholstery

Yes, doing the modern drive line conversion. Pretty excited to make the car faster than my 2013 F150 twin turbo truck.

So I never posted it in this thread but it was at that point that I was taking it to get the AC system charged and it backed into a tree damaging the passenger door, front fender and ripping the side mirror off. I couldn't even look at the car for a few weeks. I took it to a couple shows with the dents and then I got in touch with a new body shop since the one I was waiting on was taking forever and it ihas been at that shop since Feb 2023. The engine was pulled and inspected and found to not be the original 302 block so I sold it and the transmission. Will be installing a built T5 and the plan is to build a roller 351W with stock bottom end and new intake, headers and carb. I already have the carb.

@AusTex70 I saw this post and I live off Anderson Mill in Cedar Park. If you want to get together, drink a beer or work on stuff let me know. My 69 is in the paint shop for a while. I've taken about every part off it and put them all back on so I could help with your reassembly.

You need to look at all the steering and suspension components together. Play in suspension leads to steering problems. Idler arm center links Control arms ball joints sway bar bushings strut rod bushings steering box adjustment rebuilding the steering control valve and power ram and on. I did all of that stuff at once, lowered the UCA and stiffer springs. I loved the results. Then I wore out my strut rod bushings again and it is less precise.

Lol, I was coming here to share that when I had this problem it turned out that one of my door switches was bad. It was like the door was always open.

You need to tell me if that progressive ignition distributor is worth the money or not. Considering one. Which intake is that?

yes, this makes sense. 69 has concave panel but it is flat where the fill tube goes in. 70 has a flat panel.

I think you can probably make anything fit. It looks like that one will need a lot of extra holes drilled.

Here are some before I took it apart. I don’t know if it’s perfect

Hope Ridge is ok this time around

My build list has a Quick Fuel Brawler on the list. 650 is what I was looking at for the 351W. Glad you like it.

I used electrical tape to insulate mine because it is so hard to get the spacing right and the cardboard moves.

Thanks, I see a facebook add for one out of a 67-70 Mustang in Dallas. I think they want to much for it, only 28 spline and open diff. I may try to negotiate it down. I'd have to make a trip to get it.

Thanks, this is what I need because a lot of the ones I see list different things. Some with axles some without, etc. I would like to avoid modifying the axle width so I will focus on that 55 3/4" tube end to tube end. If they have the right spring perches then I'll take that as a bonus.

If I had my car now I'd measure my 8" rear to get the info but it is in the shop. What is the width of: Drum face to drum face? End of Tube to End of Tube? Outer edge of spring pads? Spring pads are supposed to be on the bottom, right? If you get a truck one they will be on top and have to be moved, correct?

I'm thinking of getting one of these. I saw a youtube video on it I think they did the install like you did but then generated a timing map before they started it. Here is a guy who had a failed install and figured out he did not have 12V to the distributor.

I love those 2005 front ends with the light arrangement. We haven't had lights like that since 1969.

Empty spot. Already own the T5. Body goes to the shop on Friday.

I think they are 289/302 specific and not long enough but not 100% sure. I could hold on to them but not sure they will fit. I know you need different headers for GT40P heads and some other aftermarket heads. https://jbaspeedshop.com/i-22726194-65-73-mustang-289-302.html They make a model 1650S for 302 and 1653 for 351W

I can find a lot on building a 302 block due to the Fox body guys but not much on 351W. We pulled the 302 out of my car and while the intake, heads and other accessories were all original the block was a 75 block already bored 30 over. So now I’m looking at getting a roller 351w to put in with the stock bottom end. My builder wants to stick with the Trick Flow 170 11R head’s with 53cc chambers we planned to use on the 347 stroker but I don’t think we can use the RPM Air Gap on a 351 due to hood clearance. Still putting in a built T5 and going to 3.8 gears. Goal is about 400hp from carbureted engine. Which intake: RPM Performer, Weiand Stealth or other? Should we consider other heads? I’m going to have to sell my ceramic JBA shorty headers too don’t think they work on 351. I’ll take recommendations on those that work with stock steering, power brakes and a T5. Thanks

It’s like the airlines with hubs. No direct flights to the smaller towns.