TexasEd

Hope Ridge is ok this time around

My build list has a Quick Fuel Brawler on the list. 650 is what I was looking at for the 351W. Glad you like it.

I used electrical tape to insulate mine because it is so hard to get the spacing right and the cardboard moves.

Thanks, I see a facebook add for one out of a 67-70 Mustang in Dallas. I think they want to much for it, only 28 spline and open diff. I may try to negotiate it down. I'd have to make a trip to get it.

Thanks, this is what I need because a lot of the ones I see list different things. Some with axles some without, etc. I would like to avoid modifying the axle width so I will focus on that 55 3/4" tube end to tube end. If they have the right spring perches then I'll take that as a bonus.

If I had my car now I'd measure my 8" rear to get the info but it is in the shop. What is the width of: Drum face to drum face? End of Tube to End of Tube? Outer edge of spring pads? Spring pads are supposed to be on the bottom, right? If you get a truck one they will be on top and have to be moved, correct?

I'm thinking of getting one of these. I saw a youtube video on it I think they did the install like you did but then generated a timing map before they started it. Here is a guy who had a failed install and figured out he did not have 12V to the distributor.

I love those 2005 front ends with the light arrangement. We haven't had lights like that since 1969.

Empty spot. Already own the T5. Body goes to the shop on Friday.

I think they are 289/302 specific and not long enough but not 100% sure. I could hold on to them but not sure they will fit. I know you need different headers for GT40P heads and some other aftermarket heads. https://jbaspeedshop.com/i-22726194-65-73-mustang-289-302.html They make a model 1650S for 302 and 1653 for 351W

I can find a lot on building a 302 block due to the Fox body guys but not much on 351W. We pulled the 302 out of my car and while the intake, heads and other accessories were all original the block was a 75 block already bored 30 over. So now I’m looking at getting a roller 351w to put in with the stock bottom end. My builder wants to stick with the Trick Flow 170 11R head’s with 53cc chambers we planned to use on the 347 stroker but I don’t think we can use the RPM Air Gap on a 351 due to hood clearance. Still putting in a built T5 and going to 3.8 gears. Goal is about 400hp from carbureted engine. Which intake: RPM Performer, Weiand Stealth or other? Should we consider other heads? I’m going to have to sell my ceramic JBA shorty headers too don’t think they work on 351. I’ll take recommendations on those that work with stock steering, power brakes and a T5. Thanks

It’s like the airlines with hubs. No direct flights to the smaller towns.

Damn it. Apparently my dad swapped out the original block while I was in college. It has a 75 block that was rebuilt. I’ll bet it was bored. I should have taken off the starter. It has the original heads and intake. My suspicion is it leaked at the rear main seal and instead of fixing it he swapped it out

@jmlay I couldn’t attach the pictures to private message. The bottom passenger side sits on top of the driver side. Bottoms should be easy to identify. They are wider, more sculpted profiles, the curves and the screw down points. The top is 2 pieces as well.

The large and small holes on 69 and 70 are reversed. The large hole in the 69 is the ignition switch. You might be able to use that lighter socket hole for the 69 ignition. IIRC there are three parts: the ignition cylinder, a bezel to make the switch sit straight in the angled dash and the twist on bezel that connect that sandwich all together. 69 Dash 70 Dash Angled Spacer: https://www.npdlink.com/product/spacer-ignition-switch-bezel/168092?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dignition%2Bswitch%2Bassembly%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Bezel: https://www.npdlink.com/product/bezel-ignition-switch/101259?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dignition%2Bswitch%2Bassembly%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Lock cylinder (several options): https://www.npdlink.com/product/cylinder-and-keys-ignition-switch/205920?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dignition%2Bswitch%2Bassembly%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Edit: You'll also need the parts that go behind the dash like the ignition switch: https://www.npdlink.com/product/ignition-switch/146369?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dignition%2Bswitch%2Bassembly%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 And the wiring pigtail you splice into your existing ignition wires. That last part goes behind the dash and the other three go in from the front.

The front windshield on my car is set directly on the pinch weld. The headliner stops under the metal trim. The rear goes under the glass rubber weather strip. My car was built Jan 1969 in Dearborn. Picture of the front under the metal trim that the sun visors attach to. That is the rear view mirror on the right.

Wait, you can adjust the steering wheel away from the driver seat for more room? Where does the slop go? It seems like the shaft would be putting too much pressure on the steering box.

Update: Plans changed a little. I got bold and took off all the stainless and aluminum trim. I learned that my headliner does not go under the windshield, apparently that is factory. Leaning towards getting the car back without the windshield and rear window, maybe taking them out before it goes to shop. Shop said they wanted the weather stripping to align the doors. I've read it is best to align first then add weather stripping. Trunk may be a different matter though. I've had the cowl vent off and learned about parts I did not know existed like foam blocks and cowl to fender bushings. Question: Can I polish my quarter window stainless with it on the glass? I plan to take the stainless of the door glass to polish it and replace the rubber. Trying to get subframe connectors in before the engine comes out this weekend. To the body shop next week.

Is it the one on the bottom ?

This is mine. I thought it was original but stopping before the glass gave me pause. There is no glue further up. The front trim covers this and the headliner went over the holes for the trim so the screws went through the material.

From my 69. Flex fan and spacer are original, Not sure about radiator but it does not leak. also have old york AC compressor and drier Radiator $50 plus shipping Make a deal on the rest. IMG_0190.HEIC

Asking $250 plus shipping. I think the date code is Jan 23, 1969 My car was a January build. No broken tabs/clips. Will include the firewall fasteners, control cables and fan lead wire. I did not open it up so the core will probably need to be replaced although it never leaked. Probably not worth it to put a 50+ year old heater core in a car. I have the original vents except the defroster.

How should I try to fix a chip in my original ones? Some kind of epoxy or resin?

Yeah the description of one of them says that the fasteners included are junk and get original style