TexasEd

Thanks for looking. I guess this could be moved to the parts wanted section since now I know I don't want a new set and just the one piece. Ed

Thanks, After my post I finally found them on my 9th or so combination of search terms. I heard that particular repro was not good and I think I want to get an original. I also need only 1 of those 4 parts.

I need the plastic splash guard behind the passenger headlight bucket in the wheel well. In my Parts & Body diagram e-book it goes behind the metal part on page 152 part 16102. Anyone know of a vender who sells these? If CJPony sells them could you give me a link? I can't turn up anything. My headlight is pretty much unprotected there. I just replaced the broken light and there was a lot of gravel in the bucket. I found this picture and part number online: C9ZB-16A562-B R.H.

Here is my shifter with e bulb in the housing and the lights on. You can see that mine does have a rubber cover at the base that yours is missing. Maybe the FMX used the housing you show originally and the P.O. replaced the shifter and had to wire in the C4 type light? Just a WAG.

Thanks the FMX must use a different neutral safety. I thought so. That matches mine (C4). When the bulb is on a sliver of light will shine up next to the shifter arm illuminating the letter or number corresponding to the shifter position. The other bulb is still a mystery to me. May need to find someone with an FMX and see what they have.

So is my car missing it or using a different method? I thought mine didn't start if the shifter was not it the right place and I have no loose wires under there.

Thanks for the inspiration. Mine won't look as good but I'm going to try my best with the engine in the car. I'll remove all the wiring harnesses I can and the solenoid and voltage regulator from the wall. I already removed the Battery tray.

Ask BuckeyeDemon. See his thread in the Project progress forum.

In the first picture the bulb that is laying there is in a socket more like the one my car has. It has some bent flanges that provide friction to hold it in the housing. The housing looks like it is mounted on your shifter in the second picture. The "bare" bulb slides in from the back. My car does not have that blue piece at all. Mine is more like Jay's. Is yours a C-6?

I think this is it: Shifter Bucket Plug http://www.cjponyparts.com/shifter-bucket-plug-rubber-1964-1973/p/HW917/

Hole in the trunk that was probably made by the muffler shop that installed the dual exhaust (straight back from stock manifolds). I need to get a buddy to help patch this spot because I want to do it with the gas tank out and the car in my garage. A local guy volunteered to do the welding but I don't have a welder.

Yes. I got my bulb working, it was disconnected under the hood. Jay, I need to clean mine up like yours. I'm also missing a grommet because I can see the transmission bell housing through the floor under the shift bezel.

LemonOwner helped me figure out a loose wire yesterday and now my shifter light works. Anyone know what this wire is for? It's coming out of the bottom position on the voltage regulator. The alternator harness has a mounting clip on it but it isn't screwed to anything. Where does it go? The starter cable from the solenoid has a egg shaped rubber grommet around it but it is just loose around the wire. Where does that go? Also my shock tower service sticker is in place. Is there a way to clean it without removing the lettering? Just soap and water? Thanks!

Tonight I pulled the carb, battery tray and gauge harness. I'm trying to figure out what was going on with my harness because a resistor was soldered inline with the ignition wire to the coil with full voltage (I haven't figured out what's going on under the dash with the pink resistor wire yet. Pictures of the resistor and a diagram of what I found under the electrical tape. I'm thinking of buying a new harness. I am installing a pertronix coil so it should be ok with full voltage. What voltage should measure on the ignition wire if the pink resistor wire is in place? I'm pretty sure the carb choke is not supposed to be connected to the ignition system/coil. What would be a better location? It needs to be ignition switched. Is there a spot on the voltage regulator?

Mike, It looks like it was slipped over the shifter. It guess would have had to been installed before the handle was put on. There is a small screw with hex head in the second picture but I don't know how it is holding it without looking at it again.

I finished getting the rust off and repainting the valve covers last night. Some steps were from previous days. The steps are: pressure wash and degrease, aircraft stripper, the worst one is done with the wire wheel rust removal, painted. It was really dusty here from tree pollen so I hope the finish doesn't show it too much under the hood. I'm almost afraid there are small pieces of wire wheel in the paint even though I wiped it all off with acetone before I painted. Next is the air cleaner and the oil fill cap. What finish is the oil cap supposed to be? Flat, satin, gloss? It looked like it was flat black but it was under a lot of grime. Is the rubber grommet for the pcv valve supposed to be natural black or painted blue? When I pulled it out it was painted blue, but that could have been done by someone after it was built.

Added pictures in previous post.

Here is a side view showing the housing connected to the shifter. And a view from the back looking towards the dash. I already removed the black plastic arc that goes under the clear bezel. The bulb is removed from the housing in the second picture but still in it's socket. I'm calling the gray metal part the housing (kind of a shade that directs the light) and what the bulb gets power from the socket. If anyone has ideas on where to track down the disconnected wire let me know. Someone said it might be an under the hood wire I found at the back of the block that is not plugged into anything.

I tried cleaning my neck with a dremel and decided to buy a new one. My time is better spent on restoring more expensive parts.

I've got the pictures and will post in the morning. There is one light that fits in a housing attached to the shifter. My bulb was good but no power. I need to track down the disconnected wire.

There isn't a coating on it? If not I can snake a polishing wheel in there with the dremel and save $24.

Thanks all. CJ Pony has a kit with almost everything I need in it: http://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-tank-kit-premium-with-drain-plug-1969/p/XFTK2/ I don't need the tank mounting hardware but I need everything else. I will add a new filler neck and filler mounting screws to the list plus new 5/8" fuel line to connect the steel lines and I should be good. I don't suppose there is any economical way of salvaging the old filler neck that has some minor corrosion on the inside of the tube?

1969 - See under my name at left. The 69 tank sits flush in the trunk. I thought the 70 tank popped up an inch or two, maybe not. Either way, I want the new tank to sit flush. Regardless, I'll probably have the tank half full most of the time because I'll probably drive it 50-100 miles a month. I'm also thinking about detailing and painting the trunk while the tank is out. I have a small hole in the trunk floor that needs to be repaired too. It looks like there might have been a weld cut out from underneath there. It does not look like a rust hole. I need to dig into it.

My light is out and I don't know why yet. I can take the cover off tonight and see if it is the bulb, take pictures and post them for you tomorrow.

Even though it isn't worth restoring to concours standards I'm going for a stock look with my car. CJ PONY has a gas tank regular $125 on sale for $100 ships 5-7 days (free shipping) NPD has theirs at $89 plus $23 shipping for $111 Anyone know of differences? What about the fuel sending units? I'll also be getting a new neck and rubber connector hose. I have my original clamps. I guess I also need seam sealer and have read there are differences. I guess I want something that is on a roll that you lay out under the lip of the tank. Thanks, Ed