TexasEd

Damn it. Apparently my dad swapped out the original block while I was in college. It has a 75 block that was rebuilt. I’ll bet it was bored. I should have taken off the starter. It has the original heads and intake. My suspicion is it leaked at the rear main seal and instead of fixing it he swapped it out

@jmlay I couldn’t attach the pictures to private message. The bottom passenger side sits on top of the driver side. Bottoms should be easy to identify. They are wider, more sculpted profiles, the curves and the screw down points. The top is 2 pieces as well.

The large and small holes on 69 and 70 are reversed. The large hole in the 69 is the ignition switch. You might be able to use that lighter socket hole for the 69 ignition. IIRC there are three parts: the ignition cylinder, a bezel to make the switch sit straight in the angled dash and the twist on bezel that connect that sandwich all together. 69 Dash 70 Dash Angled Spacer: https://www.npdlink.com/product/spacer-ignition-switch-bezel/168092?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dignition%2Bswitch%2Bassembly%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Bezel: https://www.npdlink.com/product/bezel-ignition-switch/101259?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dignition%2Bswitch%2Bassembly%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Lock cylinder (several options): https://www.npdlink.com/product/cylinder-and-keys-ignition-switch/205920?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dignition%2Bswitch%2Bassembly%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Edit: You'll also need the parts that go behind the dash like the ignition switch: https://www.npdlink.com/product/ignition-switch/146369?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dignition%2Bswitch%2Bassembly%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 And the wiring pigtail you splice into your existing ignition wires. That last part goes behind the dash and the other three go in from the front.

The front windshield on my car is set directly on the pinch weld. The headliner stops under the metal trim. The rear goes under the glass rubber weather strip. My car was built Jan 1969 in Dearborn. Picture of the front under the metal trim that the sun visors attach to. That is the rear view mirror on the right.

Wait, you can adjust the steering wheel away from the driver seat for more room? Where does the slop go? It seems like the shaft would be putting too much pressure on the steering box.

Update: Plans changed a little. I got bold and took off all the stainless and aluminum trim. I learned that my headliner does not go under the windshield, apparently that is factory. Leaning towards getting the car back without the windshield and rear window, maybe taking them out before it goes to shop. Shop said they wanted the weather stripping to align the doors. I've read it is best to align first then add weather stripping. Trunk may be a different matter though. I've had the cowl vent off and learned about parts I did not know existed like foam blocks and cowl to fender bushings. Question: Can I polish my quarter window stainless with it on the glass? I plan to take the stainless of the door glass to polish it and replace the rubber. Trying to get subframe connectors in before the engine comes out this weekend. To the body shop next week.

Is it the one on the bottom ?

This is mine. I thought it was original but stopping before the glass gave me pause. There is no glue further up. The front trim covers this and the headliner went over the holes for the trim so the screws went through the material.

From my 69. Flex fan and spacer are original, Not sure about radiator but it does not leak. also have old york AC compressor and drier Radiator $50 plus shipping Make a deal on the rest. IMG_0190.HEIC

Asking $250 plus shipping. I think the date code is Jan 23, 1969 My car was a January build. No broken tabs/clips. Will include the firewall fasteners, control cables and fan lead wire. I did not open it up so the core will probably need to be replaced although it never leaked. Probably not worth it to put a 50+ year old heater core in a car. I have the original vents except the defroster.

How should I try to fix a chip in my original ones? Some kind of epoxy or resin?

Yeah the description of one of them says that the fasteners included are junk and get original style

The guy within an hour of me said $50 a foot. He has a backlog. Here is a stainless hood trim at NPD. I did not look to see if they have the rest of the grill surround but it could be an option. https://www.npdlink.com/product/molding-hood-front/204275?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dhood%2Bmolding%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Edit: Found the stainless grille surround https://www.npdlink.com/product/molding-hood-front/204275?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dhood%2Bmolding%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Stone guard/lower radiator surround: https://www.npdlink.com/product/molding-radiator-grille/204348?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fpage%3D2%26search_terms%3Dhood%2Bmolding%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969

For the flat aluminum argent paint I plan to go with this. https://www.npdlink.com/product/paint-argent-silver-lacquer/139775?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dargent%2Bpaint%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 will it hurt the anodizing to remove the old with turpentine or paint thinner?

I ordered a few extra clips but will try to clean the adhesive off of the original ones and reuse. I read here or somewhere to use diesel to clean it. I’ll put some in a jar with the parts and soak them overnight unless there is a better suggestion.

I think my aluminum might be good enough to leave alone. I did see stainless available for some of the aluminum parts. If you didn’t swap it all it would look odd. Here’s the worst of the stainless on the left and a tiny pit in the hood molding on the right. Maybe just clean the aluminum with a little WD40 and put it back on.

Thanks Ridge. I don’t have any ding now. Only scratches. I’ll do the wet sand and then buff.

Ok so if is not too bad leave it alone? I’ll see what it looks like next to polished stainless.

So how should I clean and polish the aluminum? Maybe just buff it by hand? Is the stone deflector top piece aluminum too? Seems like it.

I found one local shop so far that can get the Carlite tinted with Blue shade band at the top and willing to do the work on an old car. Install cost is reasonable when you take into account the glass is over 63% of the total when I look at the price at NPD. He said he would put the Urethane on the pinch weld instead of the glass. Seems like it would be best not to dictate that to a pro. Leaning on paying for the windshield install but doing the back glass myself.

Lots of good info here on butyl vs urethane sealing. I think my current glass has at least some butyl sealer. I’m getting a paint job and new headliner so the glass is coming out. Windshield needs to be replaced but back glass is fine. All my windows are clear/ non-tinted but it would be nice to have the ribbon of tint at the top. Geting ready to call glass companies. I already ordered the rear gasket. I think I can do that myself but may want installer to do the front. what should I be asking?

So I got brave and removed all my stainless except the curved parts on the headlight buckets. I expect I need to remove the buckets to get that off. I called a guy about polishing mine up while my car is painted thinking I might have dings and deep scratches but looking at it off the car it is really straight. All I really need to do is: A) remove the overspray paint and the glass adhesive from the back. I plan to use lacquer thinner on the paint and I’ve heard diesel works on the adhesive. B) Buff it out on a polishing wheel with the right stainless polish. For B) I plan to get a HF bench grinder and replace a wheel with an Eastwood 8-10” cotton wheel (trying to figure out which one) and the gray stainless polish. I saw a video that explains the polishing pretty well. The only place with some abrasion is the bottom windshield trim. The bends in the rear window would also be a delicate spot to do. For the headlight buckets I was thinking I might try to polish those curves on the car before paint. Thoughts? Also for the Stone deflector trim there is some damage to the argent paint. I was thinking that stopping it off and reapplying it with the paint from NPD would be doable. Am I getting too overconfident on this? Anyone who has done this have tips? I need to save some money on this build and this is a place I think I can do it and get a new tool in the process.

If it is tight and glued well it may hold up. Mine has apparently been that way at least since 1985. I think the original owner had the windshield replaced and the installers cut the headliner out of the windshield channel and glued it up under the front trim piece. Just found that yesterday as I was taking trim off for painting the car and a new windshield.

very cool, The last picture inspired a virtual soundtrack of lopey cam exhaust sounds.