Wycked69

I agree with Dave, My brother and I plug welded both of his new quarters and then leaded them in. If we had to do it all over again, we would have plug welded and then fitted and added a patch panel. Leading is not hard, it just takes a lot of time and patience

That's what I use. KBS "ford corporate blue". They also sell it in a rattle can now

The green block on the firewall side is available: http://www.cjponyparts.com/headlight-harness-firewall-plug-1969-1970/p/HW2819/

I'm guilty of buying stuff not because I need it (usually I do) but because its a good deal.

So did I. I too happen to like them. Much heavier and the fit is pretty decent. Off course, my original holes were welded up and re-drilled.

I wish I could answer tat more intelligently but I cant. The are identified as small block and big block type hose brackets. (CJPP also does the same). Could be that SD bracket is for the I6 and 302, not sure. If you look, the Scott Drake does not bolt up using the camber adjustment bolt at all. It bolts to a hole located down and to the left of the camber adj. bolt.

Does your car have a Tach Cluster and under dash harness accordingly?

Look at the attached photo carefully from the WCC website. you can see how the Scott Drake Bracket Mounts

Actually the Scott Drake one above is correct for a small block car.

Try RC Innovations, he might be able to help .......... http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-mustang-all May also have to resort to Ebay

Follow this link. scroll down the page and it shows a photo with the small block version mounted. It does not use the lower control arm eccentric bolt. http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/67smlblkcmpltpsthskt.html

Not sure about the Scott Drake small block bracket but the attached photo I saved from somewhere shows how the original big block version is mounted

Dang, I have no idea where that one came from either

I have absolutely no idea where that thumbnail photo in my prior post above came from

What's your CR and what octane fuel are you running?

You might find it less stressful if you can fill your carb bowls with fuel first. I'm not recommending this but its what I have done. I've often found that after replacing the main fuel line and tank that your asking a lot for that little pump to draw the fuel up through the main line. I often slip the flex line off at the fuel pump and put in a jug. I go to the tank opening with a compressed air nozzle and a rag and apply pressure to the tank for about 2 seconds and it will push the fuel up through the line. its a 2-buddy system so your buddy should be at the other end and have something to pinch the rubber fuel line closed once it starts coming through into the jug so it does not siphon. Slip the line back on the fuel pump and your good to go. Filling your fuel bowls and main fuel line reduces the constant cranking trying to get fuel to the carb.

Thanks for sharing. Nice ride too as all your hard work shows well ! Like you I enjoy going to the cruise in's and car shows. I like to see all those that have worked as hard as I have or harder and take pleasure in knowing they too have experienced my pain. I have a bad habit at looking at gaps, fit, and how well the body was blocked before paint. There's a guy in a town near me that shows up sometimes in his 69 all original dodge charger and it just floors me as to how beautiful the car is.

Ridge is right. 67 - 68 has a bracket that attaches to the firewall using the same 2 bolts as e-stop brake.

On my 68 FB, I typically grab 3 paper towels at the pump. I place 1 on the bumper and 1 under the filler opening to rest the cap on. I use the third to catch any drops from the nozzle as I remove it from the filler opening when finished. Never had a problem.

And I have no idea where those thumbnails came from in my post above

Sorry, No reproductions of this part. I don't know the technical term but I have always called it the rear seat corner trim Here's some on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-Mustang-Fastback-Non-Folddown-Rear-Seat-Corner-Trim-Moldings-/171899488375?hash=item2806020877&vxp=mtr

That is sad news. My deepest sympathy goes out to his family. Chris had a good thing going with his DiNOC inserts. I bought several pieces of his wood grain inserts which were spot on. Nobody has or was doing what he was doing.

Here is an installation instruction sheet from NPD that shows how to install the spoiler on a 69 fastback deck lid Rear Spoiler installation 44210-1.pdf

Who doesn't like a nice FE motor ? I like this 427 aluminum Block design. Tod Buttermore makes an aluminum 351C block that's quite impressive as well.

Try the guy's on the ford transmission forum. They are usually a big help with everything Ford including C4, C6, FMX, and AOD. http://www.network54.com/Forum/260730