kenyu73

I think that may be somewhat normal. My tires sit about 1" closer to the front of the wheel housing as well. I think your 30" wheels just make it that much closer!

Thanks for the confirmations on the center hole! Using the top hole would push your wheel even more forward. Unless you used that hole, then using the center would fix ya up... Never did an engine build thread. Engine is still in the car untouched.

Anyone else happen to know for sure?

The ubolts dont connect here, those connect to a bracket under the axle. The axle mount sits flat on top of the leaf.

I'm putting my rearend back up and I'm not sure which "hole" in the axle mount is used for the leaf guide. I'm thinking the center hole?? 351/auto [ATTACH]11279[/ATTACH]

Finally, the rear is all completed! Well, mostly... I still have a bit of touch up grinding here and there, but the panel welding is all done. :yes: I need to do the finish bodywork still, but for now just some primer to protect and I'll do the (hopefully minimal) "bondo" cleanup once all all metal repair is completed. (frame rails replaced with Dynacorn)

The ~1/4" hang over the door jam bothered me, so I cut the 10 or so tacks and re-did the panel starting with the jam side tight and pushed the "extra" metal to the back where I was able to tap the tail out to fill in the space. Much better now.... Good alignment... Bad alignment....

Is the UCA "shelby trick" the same thing? http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showpost.php?p=59243&postcount=16

Actually, Red and Black. I have a picture in my original/first post of what my goal is to be. I hope you're joking about my welds, they suck! Well, to give myself credit, I'm learning some good tricks as I go (like making tiny bumps instead of huge weld mountains!). :lol:

I've read through some project posts and I've or saw mention of mods to the front and/or rear suspension. I guess to raise or lower the car. Anyhow, I'm looking for a good level and "tough" look. I think I saw where people moved the front strut tower (down?)? I'm assuming to reduce the clearance in the front wheel-housings. Any suggestions on what the common practice is and maybe some links to where the steps are detailed? What are the pros/cons? See my project thread for details of my car. Thanks!

Started tacking in the RH quarter. This one isn't lining up as nicely as the other side, but its all workable. I did the seam on top of the drivers side which was a pain to grind, so I tried the flat side this time. I actually wish I did the top on this side too as the quarter just seems more solid the other way. I have about a 1/4" gap to fill as well as a small jam overhang. Once I get the seam welded in, I'll heat and tap the edge over into the jam.

Rearend all sandblasted and cleaned up with POR15. I'll probably do some rear-end work like new gear juice and such, but not anytime soon. Probably get the brake h/w on sometime this winter.

Yeah, what Chad said....

Front and rear quarter spot welded on as well as the wheel-housing. [ATTACH]9782[/ATTACH][ATTACH]9783[/ATTACH] Quarter seem all welded and ground smooth [ATTACH]9784[/ATTACH] My son being put to work! Trying to get the rear-end all ready. Once the back metal is finished, I'l like to get the rear (and wheels) back on so I can move the car around if needed. [ATTACH]9785[/ATTACH]

Hammer and a big socket! Well, that's what I did 20 years ago before I was introduced to the technique of slow forced compression (ie: c-clamp!). Actually, some cars have threaded pistons where you cant compress them, you have to turn them in. I think those are only newer cars tho. Dont forget to open your brake fluid cover if the calipers are still hooked up.

Oh, also forgot to mention, I went to my local Tractor Supply Co and forked out $99 for a auto darkening helmet. Man, I cant believe how much easier it is to control my welds. Its damn near impossible to do small area welding when you're trying to hold the gun/wire and kick your helmet down. +1111 for these helmets!

Hey Buckeye, the only extra double layer is where the leaf spring mounts in the back. It's not really doubled up, its just the leaf eye hole/assembly part was a separate piece welded into the frame. Make sense?

I tried to take things off and save as much as possible, but it just got to the point where every part of the rear was damaged. I just went to town and just sawzall'ed the whole damn ass off (=. Not the smartest thing because I lost all frame references... I decided to weld the top so there wasn't a long straight repair reference along side the quarter. Any slight warpage would show easily. So me being a non-professional body guy, by welding on the top I have some room for mess ups without it "clearly" showing along the side. I am going to have a hell of a time grinding down smooth the area by the window/side though.

I did the initial tacks about 3-4" apart, then I went back and did 1" beads, skipped a few feet, did another, then another foot, then back to the beginning. I'm not done yet, i'm only about 1/2 done actually. Damn kids have me running them all over the place! I do like your idea though. I'm going to take my lessons learned from this quarter panel and hopefully do a smoother job on the other side. Mostly ok weld I think.. power(2), speed(40) [ATTACH]9764[/ATTACH] Mostly bad weld... power (1), speed(50) [ATTACH]9765[/ATTACH]

I just ran a few beads and it seems best at power (2) and speed around (40). I looked at the penetration and even the bad/piled welds have pretty good melt under the panels... just more grinding. I don't think it much to hard to get penetration on a butt weld, especially since i have a 1/16 gap across most of the panel.

I've spend the last 6 months doing spot welds on trunk panels, but now I'm doing my quarter panel seam. I've been working between level 1 and level 2 and had so/so luck with both... sometimes I'd get a good bead and then I'd burn through on (2).. then on setting (1) I'd sometimes get a smooth bead, but I tend to get more build up too. I know some of it depends on dial speed and arm speed, but just curious on what you all think? Any advice on what settings I just use? Thanks! [ATTACH]9761[/ATTACH]

LH Quarter panel tacked into place... alignment looks good! Later tonight or tomorrow I'll bead up the seams and finish the jam, wheel-housing and tail spotwelds using an air hose to keep the temp down. [ATTACH]9753[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]9754[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]9755[/ATTACH]

Another out-of-order panel repair... I didn't completely strip out the bronze, but the metal is strong and a bit of seam sealer will blend this together.

This rear connection panel was mangled pretty badly, so I had a used one shipped from a PA junkyard (they dont make these new for coupes). I didn't like the quality, but it sandblasted up nicely for the most part.

I did this repair before putting in the LH wheel-housings... not exactly 5-star auto-body repair quality, but it's solid as can be.