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Everything posted by prayers1
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I have a mildly built 302 with a wide ratio Top Loader. At the moment I 275 tires. What would be a good ratio. I would be using it for street racing and crusing short distance.
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If you can believe it, my first car was a 69 Mach 1 428 Cobra Jet that I bought for $900. I had it for 2 years until I totaled it. I loved that car! A lot of great memories Junior and Senior years. I had to get rid of it since I was starting college. I've had my share of Muscle cars since, but I never forgot that first car which lead me to the website. I eventually bought a builder that I would like to duplicate the looks. I know I will never have what was in the first one, it was loaded. Below is the only picture I have. On the rear it had Mickey Thomson M or N 50's on 15" rims. I had air shocks to clear the wheel well. I love the look of Deep Dish, fat rear tires on 15" rims with the rear lifted up a little. Can someone guess what width the tire might of been, rim width and back spacing to fit a deep dish Weld Prostar. Thank you
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If you can believe it, my first car was a 69 Mach 1 428 Cobra Jet that I bought for $900. I had it for 2 years until I totaled it. I loved that car! A lot of great memories Junior and Senior years. I had to get rid of it since I was starting college. I've had my share of Muscle cars since, but I never forgot that first car which lead me to the website. I eventually bought a builder that I would like to duplicate the looks. I know I will never have what was in the first one, it was loaded. Below is the only picture I have. On the rear it had Mickey Thomson M or N 50's on 15" rims. I had air shocks to clear the wheel well. I love the look of Deep Dish, fat rear tires on 15" rims with the rear lifted up a little. Can someone guess what width the tire might of been, rim width and back spacing to fit a deep dish Weld Prostar. Thank you
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I've received fantastic help here as well. I've been stuck on so many difficult topics and the members here always pulled through for me. In regards to your true trac how much are you looking to get. If my unit (not the 3rd member) supports the 28 spline axles. Would it also except the 31's.
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I've received fantastic help here as well. I've been stuck on so many difficult topics and the members here always pulled through for me. In regards to your true trac how much are you looking to get. If my unit (not the 3rd member) supports the 28 spline axles. Would it also except the 31's.
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LiLMike, Forgot to tell you, thank you for the good information.
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LiLMike, Forgot to tell you, thank you for the good information.
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Can someone tell me what the difference is between a T-lock and a limited slip rear.
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Can someone tell me what the difference is between a T-lock and a limited slip rear.
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I have an 8" in there now and just did a complete brake rebuild. Will I be able to transfer the wheel cylinder's, brake hardware, backing plates and drums over to the 9". Both rears have 28 spline axle's. I do have the 28 spline axles for the 9", but was wondering if the 8" axles would also fit the 9". If not, what's is the difference?
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I have an 8" in there now and just did a complete brake rebuild. Will I be able to transfer the wheel cylinder's, brake hardware, backing plates and drums over to the 9". Both rears have 28 spline axle's. I do have the 28 spline axles for the 9", but was wondering if the 8" axles would also fit the 9". If not, what's is the difference?
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A guy has a Ford 9 inch 28 spline 3.89 posi t-lock 3rd member for $300.00. It was rebuilt 6 years ago and has about 100 miles. He tore his 1966 Fairlane GT apart and sold it off as parts. I have the carrier, 28 spline axles and etc.. to build the rear. Would like to know your opinion. Also, I never heard of the gear ratio 3:89 or posi T-Lock. I'm familiar with 3:75, 3:90, 4:10 ratio's and Posi or Detroit Lockers. Thanks, John
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A guy has a Ford 9 inch 28 spline 3.89 posi t-lock 3rd member for $300.00. It was rebuilt 6 years ago and has about 100 miles. He tore his 1966 Fairlane GT apart and sold it off as parts. I have the carrier, 28 spline axles and etc.. to build the rear. Would like to know your opinion. Also, I never heard of the gear ratio 3:89 or posi T-Lock. I'm familiar with 3:75, 3:90, 4:10 ratio's and Posi or Detroit Lockers. Thanks, John
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What's with the front drum safey spring
prayers1 replied to prayers1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Point well taken, saftey 1st. Thanks for convincing me to use them. -
What's with the front drum safey spring
prayers1 replied to prayers1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
First off, nice job on the brake rebuild! Thank you for getting those pictures. I tried putting them on 1st & last of the springs and it didn't look right. I see that you put your saftey springs on first. I was wondering. Do they have to be installed. I see so many other mustangs without them. -
Took the brake hardware off a couple of weeks ago and now I forgot where this brake safey spring goes. I've seen pictures of it on the web and it expands from one brake pad to the other, right under the wheel cylinder. I personally never seen this spring on any other drums setup and see that others don't use it. I tried putting it on but it just didn't look right. Do you put it on after the springs are set or before you put the spring hardware on? Do I really need them?
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Well just got back and was able to take off the front and rear drums. The front was able to come off after backing off the adjuster. For the rear, I couldn't find the adjuster, so I had to pry the drum off a little at a time with 3 screwdrivers, tons of PB Blaster and wacks of the hammer. Lucky for me that the rear was hard to get off. I found a cracked wheel cylinder, the adjuster star was in pieces and the brake pads fell to crumbs. Since I just replaced the master cylinder, I was just going to bleed the brakes, throw the drivetrain in and go. Now I'll have to do an entire brake hardware, wheel cylinder and pad update. This will give me an excuse to paint the backing, drums and suspension. Thank you RacerX and to all who replied. I'm sure during this build I'll be posting more help questions. Have a Happy & Safe 4th of July!
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On a budget for now. Just got the motor and trans rebuilt, next body and interior, so specialty items will have to come last. RacerX, very good idea. I'll give a wack at it when I get back to the car. Thanks for all replys!
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The motor and trans are out. I tied a strap to the car and pulled it around the yard (I have a few acres of land) and thought that would unfreeze the drums. Afterwards, the drums rotated free. I thought since they spun easy that I didn't need to mess with the adjuster. It's been a while since I last worked on drum brakes. Also, I replaced the master cylinder yesterday, but could't open the 1/4" bleeder screw on the left front. It appears the prior PO stripped it and it's almost impossible to get at. I'll more than likely will need to replace the wheel cylinders. Time ran out yesterday, but I assume with front drum brakes since it's been ages since I've done something like this that I'd have to pull the bearing & drum off to get to the wheel cylinder???? I haven't had any of the drums off since owning the car (4 months) I'd like to replace all wheel cylinders, pads and if needed brake hardware. I just gotta get those drums off. It'll be a few days before I can attempt anything, I'll use the above ideas and if anyone else has some thought , Please advise. THANKS!
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Bought the car after it sat for 4 years. I went to take the drums off and it wouldn't budge. I tried soaking it with PB Blaster, wire brushing around the axle and drum so that the PB can do it's thing, I even tried a sledge hammer to the drum. The axle to drum looks like its one piece but I know it's not. I don't have a torch, just basic tools and I live in a rural area. I haven't tried the adjusting nut, however the axle turns easy on both sides and I can't get both sides off. What to do?
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How can I tell if I have the right starter
prayers1 replied to prayers1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
69gmachine, That's the info I was looking for. Thanks! I'll go check it out! -
How can I tell if I have the right starter
prayers1 replied to prayers1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
I thought the nose cone had something to do with it. If I bolt on the starter I have while the drivetrain is out, is there a way to determine if it is the right one? -
How can I tell if I have the right starter
prayers1 replied to prayers1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Anybody want to give this a shot? -
FYI: 69 Fastback, 289, Large Bellhousing, 164 tooth flywheel, 4spd toploader. The drivetrain is currently rebuilt and out of the car. I gave up assuming that the PO had all the right parts. I do have a starter in the boxes of part received, but how do I know if it's gonna fit before putting the motor in. I've read that there are 2 types of starters with different noses. Not sure on which one I have. Thanks!
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Need pic Toploader linkage set up!!!
prayers1 replied to prayers1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
I should of thought of it myself. Thank You! I was able to figure out the shifter rod positions and discovered that the reverse rod is too short and that the PO had it botched up. It's one of those universal rods with a 3" open adjustment that broke off at the end. I can either get a 3" section welded or try to locate another, I already posted on this site as well as VMF. I searched the web as well as eBay, it seems that I'll have to get the rod fixed. In the mean time. I'm gonna rebuild the shifter. Thanks!