prayers1

I can feel your pain. On mine just the flat side on each one came off, but the same side fell off. I just put some axle grease in there. I didn't think of it until you mentioned about the play in the steering wheel. I can imagine the thud I felt would be exacerbated when turning the wheel while the car is in motion, Maybe I will experience play in the steering column or maybe not, but from all this work I think I'm gonna get a donor shaft and stick it in before going through the hassle of making everything look all pretty.

Can any one identify the Mfg. and part number of this steering wheel. I thought it was a Grant but couldn't find an identical one on their site. Thank you!

Does the drivetrain need to be in to install these? NOT MY PICTURES!

Update: I was able to pull out the lower shaft and spin it 180*, put it back together and the thud was gone. I will leave it as that. FYI: The 2 plastic clips on the upper shaft broke off on the same side of each other, so I still had 3/4's of the clip and was still able to get their benefit. If the entire clip was removed or completely broken off then there would be side to side movement between the shafts. I would then need to replace the clips if available or use another good upper shaft that the clips were not damaged.

Since my last post I found 2 very helpful illustrations: http://fixingthetruckagain.blogspot.com/ https://classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5213&start=10 As you can see, the inner tube foam doughnut (3E629) goes behind the plastic collar not inside the collar. Before I found the above 2 illustrations and out of frustration, I took the inner tube foam doughnut (3E629) and cut off some of the OD. Obviously it was too loose (due to my horrible cutting). However, I was able to place (3E629) inside the plastic collar (7347) within the inner tube, I did apply a little motor oil to the ID of the foam doughnut (3E629) to aid the spinning of the shaft, there was no resistance as I experienced prior to cutting and I feel it better suits me after I trimmed both tubes. I fully assembled the steering column, but now I hear a small thud as I spin the shaft around. I believe it is in the collapsible steering shaft dropping within each other during rotation. There are 2 plastic clips attached to the upper section of the 2 piece shaft that fell apart when I pulled the shaft apart (they were dry rotten & cracked). They are used to kept the 2 shafts tightly fitted and allow movement for the column to collapse when needed. I searched the internet and can't find any replacements, I guess I'll have to buy a used column and use just the upper shaft. It should be an easy fix since i just have to take the upper shaft out w/o tearing the whole column a part.

Yes I did allow free play, only took an 1" off and the collapsible shaft has free play.

I maybe placing it the wrong location????? 3E629 is the gasket in question. Here is an exploded view, it looks like one pic is for 69 and the other for the 70. I have a fixed 69 column. My thinking is this, 7347 goes inside the outer tube followed by 7C102. Then you place the inner tube into the outer. There is a smaller plastic collar also called 7347 that goes as the end cap of the inner tube, then take 3E629 (smaller doughnut gasket) slide it on the lower steering/couple shaft, then place the shaft within the inner tube. The problem is that I can force 3E629 around the shaft but inside 7347, then shaft meets resistance spinning within the doughnut. Should I be placing 7347 on the shaft first, followed by 3E629, then sliding the shaft within the inner tube? I'm thinking that I shouldn't be placing 3E629 around 7347, but rather have it sitting behind 7347. From looking at the pictures should 3E629 be placed in front of or behind the end cap 7347????????? Am I installing this wrong?

I got the doughnut (foam) gaskets and plastic insert from Muscle Car Research. When I put the doghnut gasket (C9AZ-3E629-A Steering Column Shaft Insulator) in the smaller tube, the steering column rod is very tight to turn, there is too much pressure from that gasket. www.musclecarresearch.com/C9AZ-3E629-A Any ideals what to do, should I put some oil on it. I want to leave it out. How did this work with the original set up

1969_Mach1- Good call on the carbine bit, grinded away like butter and now fits like a glove, I was a little hesitant to cut so much off the tubes, so I cut 3/4" on the Inner & Outer, test fitted everything and was an 1/8" from the rag joint. Took it back out and cut another 1/4", fits real good now. Should of did what you said in the first place. Thanks for the info!!!

Made me smile, nice story!

Yes that threaded is the one to hold the Booster in place so that you can et the others started. I will use some washers in addition to lock nuts. No I haven't got the gasket for the Booster or the firewall/steering column base either. Some vendors have those items on back order. It is on my to do list tomorrow. Thanks for your help!

Thanks for the heads up! I'm finding a lot of things on back order.

For those who are doing this swap- Here's what Mustang Steve says- If you use 3/8" holes, you won't be able to get the booster studs all in at one time. 7/16" will work, but if you use 1/2" bit you can be assured they will go in easily. If you dislodge a threaded insert in the process, remove that insert and replace it with a washer. Do not overtighten the nuts. It makes sense to me, all 5 studs go through the firewall at one time do not properly line up, so going a little bigger helps. I'm gonna try 7/16 first. What he means about "Do not over tighten the nuts to the Booster" is that you can collaspe the fire wall by squeezing the Booster to the firewall because the metal spacer that is mounted behind the Booster rest against the firewall which leaves a hollow 3/4' space. So you can actually pull the firewall 3/4"

I just got the Manual to Power Brake conversion from Mustang Steve. It was the Master Cylinder, Booster and Automatic Pedal plus all the fittings, nice set! Before I go at it, I want to make sure of one thing. On his instructions he said to use a 1/2 Drill when drilling the holes on the fire wall. The Booster studs are 3/8's. Is he saying to use a 1/2" drill or use a 1/2 bit???

OK I understand about cutting the tubes, thank you! My 2 halves are pretty snug.

I don't think so. If you look at my last picture, the column is fully collapsed and it is a tight fit. I was wondering if 1969_Mach1 was able to still use the plastic inner tube shaft seal and rubber bushing after cutting an inch of and if he had to also cut his inner tube as well.

Wow, Mach1Rider that's a hard one. Was one of the reasons because there weren't enough paved roads in the back country :) How has the relocation transition been, any new hobbies? I hope you still visit this site from time to time. You were my biggest help when I first started my project. A Very BIG Thank You to you!! I wish you all the best.

Thanks for getting back to me and thanks for the stop lamp switch info. I figured it out how to put the inner and outer together- If anyone has the same concern, the inner tube bolts to the housing (the one that holds the emg switch and blinker) with 1 small bolt, then I slid the inner tube into the outer tube, the hole at the top of the outer tube lines up with the exact size hole in the housing.

1969_Mach1, I have my Steering column apart to rebuild, I want to make the adjustment to the lower tube in order to fit the rag joint. As you suggested above, you cut an inch off of the outer tube. My inner tube stick out 3/8s" pass the outer tube. So did you also cut the inner tube 1 3/8ths? Were you able to still use the plastic inner collar and rubber dust shield at the bottom of the tube?

I'm converting my 1969 to power brakes and need the Stop Lamp Switch for Power Disc. I can't find it anywhere, does anyone have the correct part number. Thanks a ton!

Mike, I just bought the bearing today from Missouri Mustang, should be here Monday. I have all my parts cleaned and ready for paint. BUT, I forgot how the small tube goes into the big one. Is there a certain clock position???

Is the steering coupler shafted end Cast Color or Black?

At least you had the privilege of owning one. Last year I sold my 1973 F250 HighBoy, was a lot of fun it had a 390, 4 speed w/ granny gear, 4:10's and a 4x4. Here's a couple of good forums, ford-trucks.com and www.fordification.net, plus LMC helped with the parts. Main thing is that you kept Ford Blue, Good Luck and enjoy the new project!!

Thanks Buckeye! I have a spray can of Accumatch Interior Paint , 67-73 Ford Black Charcoal - Metallic #L-4464. I believe that will be close enough. Is there anything else I might need not mention above?

I have searched here and found some and not some answers. Too bad I can't pull up the old websites history, there was a ton of info there. Is the visible part of the steering column in the interior, Dark Charcoal Metallic? I will be using the spray can version. I had a snap ring in front of the upper bearing and a lock ring behind it. Is there suppose to be another snap ring near the steering wheel? The parts I'm ordering are: (2) rubber seals, (1) white plastic bushing from Muscle Car Research. 1 upper bearing and rubber seal 1 turn signal wire harness Mike65 said the bearing number is F23z-3517 67-93, but when I pull that up it shows all other Ford vehicles besides a 69/70. Are there any other parts I'm missing or any advise to give. Thanks!