prayers1

gsxrken- I appreciate the offer, Thank You. I'm leaning more towards the Granada version.

Thank you Mach1Rider for the reply. I figured it out. The hole is for the power vent, A elbow type of hose that attaches to the hole of the flat cover holding the blower motor. My flat cover has no hole so I can't attach the elbow hose. You can see the impression of the hole on my cover but I would have to knock it out. I went to Autozone today, found the exact motor, it cost me $9 since I had 20 dollars owed to me for points. The new motor had long studs on eachside of the motor. I swapped the bolts from the old motor that look like carriage bolts. Now I can send the CJ Pony motor back that cost me $44.16. Problem solved. I hope this info helps someone else.

How come no booster. I thought you had to have that for power brakes. Why didn't you use the booster

Here's a picture of the new and old. As you can see the new blower motor has a large hole the size of a quarter and the wires are near the back of the case. My blower doesn't have that big hole and the wires are closer to the firewall.

Non A/C car--My replacement blower motor just came in. On the side of the case there is a 3/4 of an inch hole. I can clearly see the windings. I'm afraid if I use it as it is, water will destroy it. I called CJ Pony and they said that's what the book calls for. Now, my old motor is of the same size but doesn't have the hole. I've seen another vender selling the same motor for a NON AC car and calling it a power vent. Should I agrue with CJ that I have the wrong part or is there an easy solution such as a gromet. Please advise.

danno- Thank you for that great insight- That makes sense. Please keep me informed on your brake conversion. Due to back order of parts I have yet to put my drivetrain in, therefore the brake conversion will be another day. One of our members was selling a 69 Spindle/Rotor set and since I will be doing the conversion sometime in the future I thought to jump on it, but I've recently read posts regarding the Granada setup. Since I'm not in a hurry, I like to throughly look at all of my opinions. From what you just said it looks like the Granada is the way to go.

MustangChuck- That price for the 2005-2009 Mustang GT Front Brake Caliper and Rotor Set, seems to be a good deal. What are the cost of the brakets and everything else. With those rotors can you use 15" rims.

Desert 69- What did you do about the master cyl and Booster. What did that cost and did you come across any problems. Can anyone tell me if there is a difference in performance with the 69 OEM vs. Granada. I know depending of where you get your parts, but out of the 2, which is less expensive.

There are so many opinions & posts on disc brake conversions that it makes it hard for me to decide what budget friendly version to get. I have manual 4 wheel drums. Since I'm rebuilding the car from the ground up I can't afford Mustang Steve's or the expensive kits. I would need to acquire my parts a piece at a time. For my budget, I'm looking at conversions from Granadas, Bolt on Bracket kits that use the same drum spindles or used 69 disc brake parts. From the choice above which seems best for my budget. I tend to lean towards the OEM & Granada. I would think that the OEM version would be the way to go, as the engineers intended it to be. Is a 1969 brake system better then the 1975 Granada. Does the Granada have more braking power. If someone has done any of the above conversions. Please let me know what stumbling points I need to watch out for. Any opinion and help is much appreciated. Thank You!

That video made a wide smile on my face. Good for you. Your car looked great!!!!! I hope one day mine will look as good. By the way, I like the rear tire look. What size are they and what rim size and backspacing do you have. Send more videos when available.

I am very interested. I will give you a call. Thanks

I found it. 7/16-14 Thread, 1 1/4" long

Thank you. Are the spindles worn out? I will be going from drums to disc. Do you have anything else for the conversion?

Bolting engine (motor) mount to block on a 1967 289. Can you tell me the size and length of the 2 bolts. Thank you!

How much for shipping 72601

How much for the brake set up?

I would have to agree. Mine is WALNUT. If I purchase a walnut dash clock assembly, I guess I would be safe since I have 2 Walnut variations. Thanks for everyones input! Does anyone have the clock & cluster WALNUT panel for sale!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That would be great, but my car had the standard interior. Thank you for the suggestion!

I have another woodgrain cluster panel which is below. As you can see, it is darker and looks more like the walnut color. However, the cast number is the same as the picture above. I'm assuming that since the casting numbers are the same, the lighter one has been exposed to the sun longer. I'm just guessing! That's why I made this post. I really like the lighter one but if I do buy a Teak panel it may not match. I so confussed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm looking to buy the clock cluster panel, but everytime I look, especially on eBay the colors look so different even though they say either Walnut or Teak. Here's a picture of my woodgrain cluster panel. The picture makes it look more redish, even better then what I actually have. Mine is lighter towards a very light Walnut and sometimes I think it looks like a faded Teak. On the back it reads: C9ZF-10A861 L-4982, I Googled that number and all that comes up is an eBay item "TEAK". What do you think it is?

I thought about a Hardware Store gromet, but thought maybe there was a repro available. As for the negative lead. Is yours actually mounted on the firewall? Mine is mounted on Rt Apron, closest to the firewall. What was Ford's intention?

69R-CODE: Maybe intuition told me to do it. I just didn't like to fork out more cash when I can use it elsewhere. Nice job on the rebuild. I just hit mine with some black Rustoleum. No ones really gonna see it, but I didn't like the rust and If I saw it I would always remember it. Does anyone know where I can get the gromet that holds the blower motor pwr wire through the firewall. Also, my blower motor negative wire was bolted to the side of the engine compartment. Is that where it belongs?

I see it! Part number 18A573. Thank you for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK, I thought so. So, lay the box on the ground and place the core inside. Now, if looking at the passenger side of the core, do I place the metal frame with the bent edge to the right and in the down position?

Before installing the drivetrain, I had the stupid idea of replacing the heater core, blower motor and hoses. While pulling the box out, I had to seperate it for it to come out, when seperating it a rectangle open metal frame fell out. I'm not sure how it goes back. I can't test fit since my parts won't be in until late next week. Below is a diagram from the 69 shop manual. It doesn't show this part. Also, below is that part and how I think it sits in my heater box. Can someone tell me if it sits in the box as it shown or does the heater core go in first then the frame sits on top of the core and what side does the angled part of the frame sit. Thank You!