prayers1

Please advise!!!!!!!

Wow, your not kidding! The detail and set up of your car is incredible. That's one of the nicest I've seen. How about a picture of the entire engine bay. Well, it looks like I have the right foot pedal rod to Z-Bar spring on. The lower spring looks just like the one on the catalog page, but it's obviously too long when I try to put it on the clutch fork/Z-Bar. I'm confused why it's in the catalog pitcure? Where did you get that upper adjustable rod/ swivel and are you sure that your lower spring is the factory one.

From what your telling me, the small black spring attached to the Top of the Z- Bar to Clutch Pedal needs to go on the bottom of the Z-Bar and to the clutch fork. And the one I have attached to the clutch fork needs to go where the small black one is now. I've tried to use the silver larger spring at the top of the Z-Bar but it was too long. So, I thought it would go on the clutch fork. Maybe it's stretched out and I need to cut it to length. Do you know about how long it is. I'm enclosing photos of each spring and a Equalizer Bar kit. It appears that the long spring in the kit I have but too long. Let me know if I understood you about what spring goes where and would you know the length. If you don't know the length. I would guess that it would be whatever the distance is from the top of the Z-Bar to the pedal rod when the Foot Pedal is all the way up, is that right????

Ok. I understand: Negative battery lead to engine block Engine block to Firewall What about the bolt hole on the rear of the alternator. Is that another ground? Does that have to be grounded. If so, should I use the negative side of the batt to the alt as well as one to the block?

I'll give it a try. Thanks for all your suggestions.

I bought a new rod. As far as my application, I'm using what was given. 1968 289 & Large bellhousing for 164 tooth flywheel. You can see that the rod is close to the firewall hole, but I can live with that for now. Where do you put the other end of the clutch fork spring? On the frame, suspension ??? Here's a picture of the spring attached one end to the clutch fork. If someone can show a picture of it's location that would be great.

Cruzzar- Yes, the rod is 12.5" long. I thought to do the same thing. My only concern is when the clutch pedal bottoms out. I hope that there would be enough length after bending the rod to allow full travel of the clutch. I want to be sure that the pressure plate opens fully. How would I know this? There's a picture of the rod on post #10, that wasn't there yesterday

Just got replacement firewall speed-O-Cable gromet. The gromet hole is much smaller that the dash side and speed-o-cable gear. How do you put this on?

OK. Thank You.

If I'm not using the factory alt wires do I still need to ground the "blk/red ground wire for alt or voltage reg." Or is it good practice just to ground it.

OK, got the motor in, trans and clutch linkage and shifter all hooked up. Now onto electrical. FYI-I've installed a new engine wire harness Where do you ground the battery? In the enclosed picture, you see wires for the alternator which I will not be using, I'm going one wire. However, there is a blk/red and black tied together in that picture, near the bottom of the page, does that get grounded? Does the solenoid wires look right? Where do you ground the engine block. From where to where? Are there any other important grounds that need addressing. Thank You!

Here is a picture of my clutch peddle rod. You can see that it's straight, not like the 69-70 version. I can go 2 ways, buy a new rod or get the one I have welded and extend the length needed to reach the Z-Bar.

My upper clutch rod is completely straight with 90 degress on both ends. Here's a picture of the old Z-Bar used by the PO next to the new one I'm using. You can see he bent the top to meet the rod. Also attached is 4 rods offered to early Mustangs. The 69-70 has a slight bend. I was thinking, if I bend my rod 45 degress in the middle after the fire wall then straighten it out, I should have enough to attach to the Z-Bar, but how much do you think it will decrease it's length? If it does decrease the length by and inch or so, will this have an effect on function? Or, should I do this to the Hi Po rod that's 13 3/4.

Stangs-R-me, Thanks for the pic and reconfirming my setup. 2nd & 3rd were hitting a brakeline at the right of the tunnel. I moved the brake line down a few incjes reattached everything it it works fine. Problem solved.

The rod I have is straight. As for mustangdepot, that rod is straight as well, both ends have a turn as mine does. I was thinking of getting a 1966 Pedal to Equalizer Bar Rod 13 3/4", it has enough length to allow me to bend it to shape. the PO left me a Z-Bar that was hacked up, but I do see that he bent the top to fit to the peddle rod.

I suspect it's the original, it looks old enough, but how things are turning out who knows. I was going to bend the top about 3/4". I have to be careful so that the curve doesn't hit the sterring knuckle. I didn't know about other options. Would you know what application would have the curve. I think that would be best. Before I pulled the Z-Bar I took a photo on how both rest. You could see it's a good inch away.

The trans is a 1967 4 speed Toploader. Unfortunatley it was removed from the car, so I have no ideal how the linkage was set. I rebuilt the Hurst shifter and placed it on the trans before installing it in the car. I was pretty sure I had all the linkage right. It shifted in all gears smooth. Now with the trans in the car I went to install the shifter but now the shifter rods are hitting the Tunnel. If someone can look at my picture maybe they can catch something wrong. Maybe the rods and shifter levers are placed wrong.

Finally I got the drivetrain in, now I having problems with the clutch linkage alignment. The bar coming form the clutch pedal to the Z-Bar was an inch from the Z-Bar hole. I pushed the rod closer to the hole and secured it with force, now the Z-Bar is pulled further away form the bellhousing and almost out of the Bellhousing/Z-Bar bushing. The Z-Bar is not original but is for my application. I thought to take my floor Jack handle, place it on top of the Z-Bar and pry it towards the left tire. What should I do.

Fantastic!!! I'm almost there myself, but a 1/4 of the power you got. I know that anticapated feeling. First time jitters. Great thread to follow, keep posting. Good Luck!

I've been waiting a long time to get this drivetrain in, now I'm getting a little too excited and making careless mistakes. Such as, I was flipping throgh the CJ Pony magazine and suddenly glanced at the throw out bearing, the one that has the clips. I got to thinking, maybe that's one I need which clips onto the 69 style fork. I went with a 11" clutch set up, it all bolts up but for different application (not many available at a low cost), The T/O bearing has a cam lobe that rides on the clutch. It felt a little loose when installing, now I can see that I do need the clip style T/O bearing. Maybe it was a good thing that I have to pull this motor. I'll double check that pickup.

buening- Keen observation !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You are right. I got so caught up with the drain plug in the rear that I convinced myself it was a rear sump. After I read your post I flew into the garage a couldn't believe you were right. I was stimied. I took a tape measure and measured the sump and came with 11" x 8 1/2". I went to a friends house and measured a stock oil pan and found that it measured 8 1/2" x 8". So, I still need a new oil pan and I still need to pull the motor. I'm glad that I orderd the right part, but thanks to you, I don't need a new pickup. Thanks for taking the time to read this post. John

My opinion , I like the blacked out hood, tail panel and headlight buckets. That combo will go with any other color you chose to paint the rest of the car. I forgot black front and rear spoiler. $20,000 for just a paint job! Wow, that's one of the many reasons why I left the Garden State. Here in Arkansas, I can get the same thing for 3-4K. With that much money, I would get some nice spray painting equipment. I wish I was at your stage, Good luck for you and enjoy!!!