prayers1

I meet someone over the weekend who had several Mustang parts for sale. One of the items was a total complete NEW Shaker system for $350. Boy, I was excited to get that. I quickly became very:sad: disapointed, I found that it was all molded plastic even the breather cover as well as the scoop. I remember my 69 Mach 1 had an aluminum or cast metal scoop and metal breather. This repro was nothing but plastic and fiberglass. Is this the only material used in making repro Shaker systems?? Do all venders have this same set up that their selling fo close to $500. They should all be embarrassed to ask so much for so little. When I picked up the scoop it almost blew out of my hand because it was so lite. I know that an original setup would put it close to $1000, so I can't afford that. Does anyone know who makes a halfway decent shaker system.

Thanks Mike for getting back to me. I can squeeze the bulge back into it's original position with no problem, but how do you retain that position. Once I let go it pops back out of shape. I'm having a hard time figuring that out. It can be repaired for $145, by RimBlow. I'm sure it's no big secret on how to do it. There must be someone besides a company that knows how to fix this.

Today I picked up a 69 Rim Blow Steering Wheel off of a craigslist seller for $150. I viewed several websites that repair these steering wheels, but I would like to repair the 3 spoke pad myself if possible for now. Cost is the reason. There are 2 cracks on the woodgrain and the Black plastic sections of the wheel are good, the same for the rim blow horn. As you can see, the 3 spoke pad swelled. How do you pull it all back in. I've read others have used contact cement, but what do you glue it to? If someone has done this repair themselves, please advise. Thank You!

Thanks Doug, that was a lot of good information. I'll probably due it this spring, my garage is too small and I'm dropping the car off to the body shop for the winter. I have a few things to iron out before that. Take care, John

Thank You. I just read somewhere else that it's 9 7/16. What's the consensus?

Can someone tell me the measurement from the edge (from front to back, with the lid down) of the truck lid to the 1st hole for the mounting bracket. Thanks!!

Yes I meant diaphram. I just read elsewhere that some take off assist spring or as others call it a helper spring when using that type of pressure plate. In the past, when the z-bar was off I would have to move the clutch pedal from time to time. I found that it would snap into position up or down. I was always worried when working under the dash that the pedal would mistakenly spring up and hit me. How did you take off that spring, any difficulties. Thanks for everyones help!

I'll take Rear Shackles and steering cover. My zip is 72601, I can pay with PayPal.

Got it! What's your thinking on installing another spring to pull the clutch fork to the front of the car. I think the clutch fork dust cover hinders free travel and the oem spring, the one from the clutch fork to the lower z-bar is too soft Or, should I dump the oem spring and get a tighter one. Thank You! PS: I had another thought! What if I disconnect the helper spring from within the car. Would that be safe to do?

I understand and I want less travel, so the shorter the rod the faster the contact. My pedal feels so easy to operate and I'm not comparing it to a hydraulic system. I recall when I had 67/69 Camaros w/ Muncies. It was more of a stiffer pedal. You could actually feel the whole travel through your foot. By that feeling, I could judge on how to adjust the clutch. It was constant pressure through the entire travel. On my 69 Mustang, it's feather touch during the whole travel. There is one problem, that's when you push the clutch all the way down and half way back-up and vice versa, it feels like it's a 2 stage movement. More like the pressure got over a fulcrum and came back down. After it goes over that hump feeling it wants to spring back up to it's final resting point, up or down position. I'm thinking it maybe the shaft that holds the clutch/brake pedal, might be worn out and when the pedal goes through its travel it hits that same spot each time. I haven't confirmed this yet. But one thing for sure, the pedal does spring back upwards pretty fast, no matter how the clutch is adjusted. I'm thinking it maybe the clutch muti-diafram or the assist spring in the pedal the one attached to the inside of the car, not one with the spring going to the Z-Bar. When trying to get the pedal to grab about an 1" or 2 from the floor. I need to shorten the adjusting rods length??????? How much slack or play do you measure at the clutch fork and adjusting rod???? How about the ideal of attaching a large spring to the clutch fork and pulling towards the front, that would take out any slack on the t/o bearing. This way I can get a better ideal of the ture slack on the adjusting rod. I think the OEM spring on the lower Z-Bar to clutch for is too soft and gives a false feeling and the clutch fork dust cover is rather tight on the fork itself hiding any natural slack. FYI: New items-clutch system, Z-bar, clutch rod, springs, adjusting rod and pedal to z-bar rod. I know I hit you with a lot of what if's. I'm trying to fully understand this cluch and get it right. Thank you! and I appreciate for your time, John.

69 Fastback- Need passenger side door rod the one that you push down or pull up to lock the door.

Need passenger side door rod the one that you push down or pull up to lock the door.

I can't seem to find that sweet spot for my clutch. At first I adjusted it with a little tension on the adjusting rod at the clutch fork. I felt lost trying to feel when the clutch would grab, so I tighten it up with just a little play and the pedal is too high. I feel if I take the dust cover off the bellhousing I can get more slack to get the pedal to grab closer to the floor, but what's the use of a dust cover. FYI- New flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and T/O bearing. The pressure plate is a multi finger instead of 3 finger. The multi finger type gives more assist to the pedal. That's what I was told. How does one properly adjust the clutch? Does a shorter adjusting rod mean less clutch and a longer adjusting rod means more???? I would like the clutch to engage a few inches from the floor. Now the clutch is grabbing near the height of the brake pedal. I'm using NOS springs for the lower and upper Z-bar. It feels too loose or sloppy. I feel it would be best if I can get a longer spring attach one end to the clutch fork and the other to the A Arm. This way I can take up any slack on the clutch fork and get a better rod adjustment. Which is what - Higher pedal means clutch is starting to fail and lower pedal means alot of clutch available. Or vice versa. I really don't know which way to go or what to do!

I got concerned when Armond said to check if there are Nut Zerts under the frame for the Power Steering Bracket. Well I finally had a chance today to crawl under and see. I'm glad to see that they are there. I almost thought that maybe the frame was replaced.

1969 Mach 1- I took your advice, just placed an order with Jegs on a price beat for $148.38. Thank You! I also did a consensus and a few hours on the internet to pick the Weiand Street Warrior 8124. It had the latest technology, almost identical to the F4B and was inbetween the Edelbrock Performer and RPM. Thanks to all for your opinions!

Never thought of the Street Warrior, nice writes ups and the cost is good. Why not the Edelbrock 2121.

I have a 1969 Fastback with a 1968 289 just rebuilt, 4 speed toploader wide ratio, 9" trac-lok rear w/ 3:50 gears, 1965 screw in stud heads, 194/160 valves, Comp Cam 512 lift cam, Holley 600 DP, long tube headers. I would like to go with the Edelbrock Performer 2121 w/ a power band up to 5500 OR Edelbrock Perfromer RPM w/ a power bandup to 6500 OR a Weiand Stealth. I already had a Edelbrock F4B on it, but had issues with vacuum leaks and one of the bolt holes on the thermostat sprung a leak which needs to be welded. I choose not to go back to the F4B. I'm not racing the car at the drag strip, but would do a little street light racing. Mostly cruising. I don't want to be changing Manifolds and want to do this right and have it last for a while. There's some great sales this week and I want to take advantage of it. Any opinions?

Came across a webpage superbrightleds.com they had some helpful information about conversions to LEDS. One thing I didn't know, is that LED's are not as bright as incandescent bulbs. I'll be folllowing your progress to see what you've come up with. Just caught Blue08's post- Now I'm confussed.

What LED number would you be using for the dash cluster. Would the LED's produce too much heat?

Stangs-R-me, Your right, after pulling off both door panels, I see that the drivers side door is original and the passenger has been replaced. I still haven't located the elongated relay. Is this the one that pulgs into the back of cluster panel. If I have the visibility group, could I have it w/o the seat belt wire or is it part of the package.

Not to be funny, but do you have the license plate light. Your brake lights look nice and bright or maybe it's the way the camera captured it. Mine are rather dull, did you use the stock bulbs. If not, what type are you using or do you know of a brighter replacement bulb. Not to get off topic, but what bulbs are you using in your cluster gauge. I would like mine to be brighter. I have good ground, new bulbs and a new curcuit board and regulator. Do you have any suggestions. Thanks! John.

69 mach 408w build- Did you see the new NPD catalog, it has a real nice picture of a Red 69 mach 1. Every time I see a Red Mustang, I think of yours.

Thanks for all the info. I do have the newest copy of NPD and did check the interior vinyl. Did I have a dumb moment, I thought Kiwi was a color not a type of fabric. I was thinking since my car exterior was Lime Gold, I thought that the seats had a gold Kiwi color in the center. That would of been cool! The new NPD Catalog has a really nice red Mach 1 on its cover.

Thanks for the info- So far I can confirm the locking glove box, parking brake light and ignition light. The trunk light wire must of been removed. Anybody have the Park light bezel for sale?

OK. Can someone tell me the difinition of: Sport Decor Group & Visibility Group