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Everything posted by prayers1

  1. I'm working on the Shock Tower reinforcements and wanted to know after I sand and prep the shock tower in the immediate area within the engine compartment, could I just cover that area with Copper Weld Thru Primer, as well as cover the back side of the braces, then weld the braces to the shock tower. Just don't have any experience with Weld Through Primer and don't know how far to go with it. I'm not using the Copper Primer as the main primer on the vehicle, just want to use it near the area of the welds. This is what I'm using, SEM Copper weld through primer 40783
  2. Yes I understand, Thanks! Lanky said " The shafts sometimes look like they can be mounted either way, but one side of the shaft is meant to be towards the car and one side away. " Confused on what he meant?? How do I know which side is which? Is there a right and left??
  3. Yeah Jay I think your right on the grinding. I was concerned if there was a right or left side UCA or something I was overlooking. I was more surprised than anything because I bought from a reputable vendor then discovered it was a Scott Drake drop ship item. I don't know whats happening to Scott Drake but the last few I products I had from him was not up to standards. Thanks!
  4. Here's a couple of pictures. When I said "This is happening to both right and left sides". So not to confuse anyone, I meant its happening on the Passenger and Drivers sides and effecting the area closest to the front of the car. The bulge is apparent from within the engine compartment. Should I leave it as is or flatten it back to how it was? On both UCA's it says Scott Drake A1613. I Googled that number no luck, but did catch a comment on CJP, a customer had this to say, "The back of them hit the shock tower for 73 mustang on upward travel. You need to grind them down to get them so work. I called Scott drake and they new about it but didn't change them." What do you think?
  5. I pulled the UCA off to weld in the outside shock tower reinforcements and noticed a bulge on the shock tower towards the front. This is happening to both right and left sides. These are new UCA's from Street or Track, installed 2 years ago when I did the Shelby drop. I am not aware but is there a left and right UCA? Maybe I installed the wrong side. I just don't see a difference. I assume I could hammer down the tab that is hitting on the shock tower but wanted to post this to see if there is something I'm over looking. In advance, thanks for your time and help!
  6. Yes I am familiar with that thread. For some unknown reason, since the beginning of this new website, I'm having a hard time finding previous threads I started with this Sites SEARCH Box, Thanks for finding it! AS you all can see I'm still on the fence with this decision. I'm definitely putting in subframe connectors but the Shock Tower reinforcement is a different question. I'm leaning towards the Tinmans with the diveshaft safety loop.
  7. I have been fighting with the decision of putting in the Shock Tower Reinforcement. I have good shock towers and was going to just use the Monte Carlo Bar, Export Brace, a Beefier Cross Member and Tin Man Subframe Connectors. I occasionally street race but most of the time just cruise. Right now the drive train is out, waiting for the 4000 rpm stall converter to come in. Motor is a 408 Cleveland Stroker, 520 hp/ 480 tq. Do you guys think its really necessary to install the reinforcement Kit? I really don't want to do it and I'm no expert or have this experience with a stronger motor in this year mustang.
  8. I see that they are round tube and claim they do not twist like square tubing. I'm not an Engineer, but IMO I would think it would be easier to twist a round tube vs. square. Any opinions on that?
  9. I have a fold down rear rear so the rear seat divider is out of the question. What do you guys think of Heidts or Total Control. I like that the Total Control has a provision for a driveshaft safety loop. I didn't see much hype about the shock tower reinforcement kit. So is it just a waste of time welding those in if your shocks towers are good and use the Monte Carlo Bar and Export Brace?????????
  10. I 2ND IT! I'm getting tired of getting wild name notifications and numerous unsecured website notices. Please fix this before this site gets ruined!
  11. I've been having good luck with Dupli-Color DE 1634 Low Gloss Black for the engine bay, its an Enamel/Ceramic paint and is also great to use as a touch up. The paint blends in real nice, withstands heat up to 500* and resistant to oil and fluids.
  12. Very good explanation 1969_Mach1. How do I know what ration box I have 14:1 or 16:1?
  13. Im getting to finalize my Borgenson install as well as my upgrade to Power Brakes. I decided to do this since I have a new motor to install. I was not happy about cutting an 1 3/8's off my steering tube. To me it's a tighter fit more than I want. At first I couldn't get the box to mount on the frame, but thanks to 1969_Mach1, he had the same problem and told me to file it down which worked. If you note on the instructions they do not want the rag-joint set screw in the void part of the steering box shaft, but rather seated an inch in. I called them on that and I was advised to seat it in 1" and mark the hole for the set screw then file down the teeth on the steering box shaft. I have a concern about feeling resistance at the center of the box. When I fully turned out left or right, it spins easily until I get towards center where I meet resistance, as I continue to spin out of center it opens up and the resistance goes away. It feels like that turning left or right. The only explanation I might have is that they are making it tighter at center so there is no free play.
  14. Thanks for posting the picture Adam, it is just what I needed.
  15. prayers1

    Donor swap

    Depending if your going 69 to 69 or 69 to 70 as I did. I changed mine from 69 drum/drum to 70 disc/drum. You need the 70 front brake lines, proportioning valve, Brake Booster and Master Cylinder. You will also need the spindles and both outer tie rod ends, because the 70 spindles are beefier and have bigger holes for the tie rod & of course the calipers. The 69 & 70 There is nothing different between to 2 suspensions beside sway bar thickness. I would buy all new front suspension parts to go along with the exchange. Double check on the Brake Pedal there are different types for Stick/Auto, plus manual/power brakes. You can also keep your 69 drum spindles and convert to a 68 4 piston caliper setup. As for steering they are all the same unless you go aftermarket. Check out MustangSteves website, tons of brake info.
  16. Thanks guys, but I'm using the 1970 valve, so I need to see how that is pictured on a 1970 car. IMO I'm thinking the valve is installed vertical instead of the above picture showing it horizontal, or I maybe wrong.
  17. I'm changing my 1969 manual brakes to a 1970 Power Disc. Does someone have a picture showing where it is installed. I've tried searching on the web but the shock tower brace is always in the way. Thank you
  18. Well that counts me out. I have peel-n-stick sound deadener in place.
  19. I think I'm gonna leave mine as it is. I feel no thud as I did with the other set up and I think the shaft is much tighter now. IMO the 2 halves are not a matted pair and the wear patterns are different from 48 yrs of use, thus allowing a tighter fit.
  20. First time I heard of Spin Tech, looks interesting. I'm in the market for a set of sub-frame connectors. I wonder if they can be welded in with the interior in place, anybody?
  21. 1969_Mach1- I believe your are correct on your theory about the injected plastic that forms the 2 plastic collars within the collapsible section of the shaft. Today I scored a whole 69 column and took it apart, hoping to retrieve it's unblemished upper section of the shaft that holds those 2 plastic clips and to see what guts are in the turn signal housing (my column came with a Grant Steering wheel and I believe some internals are missing). I found that it was impossible to collapse the shaft as you mention above, the Rag joint section of the shaft has (2) 1/16" holes on each side of the shaft and are filled with the same plastic as the collars. They are there due to design to prevent the shaft form collapsing, they will only do so under extreme force such as a front end collision. This compromises the integrity of those plastic collars and more than likely they are cracked within the shaft. When you pull the collapsible shaft apart 9 times out of 10 the collars will fall apart. I see no way around this since you have to cut your Steering column tubes and shorten the length of the shaft by collapsing it for the Borgeson unit. The Donor shaft had 1 clip cracked but I did not peel it up, I coated that section with wheel bearing grease and slid it back into the column. After assembling the steering column I did a side by side comparison of the other collapsible shaft and found that after having to collapse the shaft to the length to fit the car (because of the Borgeson Steering box), the 2 plastic clips went pass smaller dia. narrowed middle section of the shaft and was housed in the wider section of the shaft were they would have no effect on the functioning of the collapsible shaft what so ever. So, these clips do not matter in my situation. For those who have not seen the collapsible steering column shaft, The center section is narrowed where there is the most resistance in the shaft, thus allowing the 2 halves to slide within each other, once the plastic clips pass the narrowed section they have now effect on the tightness of the shaft. So, getting a donor shaft did not help my cause (trying to have an unblemished clip, not that it matters now) but only educated me. I haven't experienced it but maybe this why some Borgeson owners complain. Time will only tell.
  22. I think you guys are right on the Volante "Volante ST3070 Mustang Steering Wheel Leather Tear Drop 4-Spoke 65-73" Great detective work! Thank you!!!!
  23. Here's the link I got it from, http://fixingthetruckagain.blogspot.com/ I don't have either account to respond to ask. Maybe someone here cam?
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