prayers1

Would it be best to go with JUST cooling fans??? https://www.dallasmustang.com/radiators-shrouds-electric-fan-kit-1968-1969-for-24-quot-radiators-2-fan-assembly.html

Cam is a special order CompCam, by Brent Lykins of B2motorsports. He specializes in Clevelands and speced the cam w/ pwr brakes in mind.

It's the original smaller Bendix booster. I have a feeling that its suppose to feel like this. I believe we are spoiled with the ones we have in our modern cars. I would like to get more feedback by others w/ Pwr Brakes and see what the say about the assist. Replacing either the MC or Booster is a big project in my car. The valve cover almost hits the booster and the bottom rear Valve Cover bolt will not come out unless I shift the motor to the right, Very tight clearance. Is there a specific test for the booster? I did pull the valve off the booster and heard a loos of air.

I made a mistake. I found that my records show that I have a Motorcraft 180° Cleveland specific thermostat. I do have the metal 24" radiator and the bypass plate installed. The CCR Alum. Radiator seems kinda pricey

Well I don't know what to say. I ordered the Booster, MC and brake pedal from Mustang Steve who has been selling this combo for years. Both booster and MC are rebuilt. I know I have the correct booster & rod and the correct brake pedal. I tested the check valve At the booster and it works fine. Yes, 12" of vac is in PARK. I can rig a vacuum line w/ a gauge to see how it responses when driving. But shouldn't the vacuum drop anyway under power?

I have an original new Big block Radiator, 195 Stat, Flow Kooler water pump, Factory Shroud, Aluminum Flex Fan. I run 50/50 with the additive that makes it run cooler (can't remember the name). Rebuilt/Stroked 351C to a 408 with Alum Heads & Intake. Last night it was on the cool side and drove around town and of course I got on it a few times the temp stayed around 207-210. With the prior motor 351C and same set up it would run around 195. I believe during the daytime warmer days It would be above 210. I don't want to ruin this motor it's one I'm finally happy with. I'm looking to run it cooler and think an aluminum Rad and electric fan set up would help. I looking for a direct fit nothing that has to be modified or bulges out at the seams. What do you all think?

I ordered a black plain vacuum canister from Summit. Who would of thought that when I received it, it had JEGS Stamped in the metal on top of the tank. I installed it in the upper rear section of the left front wheel well, drilled 2 holes to run 3/8ths Fuel line and rubber grommets. FYI I have 12" of vacuum. Took the car for a spin and I did feel use use of power brakes but was very disappointed. Not mush of an improvement over Manual. Maybe I so use to modern pwr Brakes that I expected to feel the same. I rebuilt the Port valve, installed new Auto/pwr brake pedal, rebuilt Booster and MC. I have all new SS lines with 1970 Front disc setup. I assume all is working as should based on the performance of a 1969 Car. Thanks all for your feedback and help!

Thank you. What is the difference between the Street & Performance? What would be best on my application.

I have been away from this site for a few months due to a loss in the family that was hard to deal with. I'd like to focus back on the Mustang and get it ready for the street. I need alignment specs but there are sooooooo many opinions on which specs to use. I thought If I give my particular vehicle info that maybe someone can direct me on what to use. I have a 1969 Fastback with a 408 Cleveland with aluminum heads and an AOD trans. The entire suspension is completely rebuilt. I cut 1/2 a coil off new coil springs. Have the Manual linkage with the Borgensen POWER steering. Welded in shock tower reinforcement Have the Export brace & Monte Carlo bar. 7/8ths sway bar. Did the Shelby drop. 1970 front disc & rotors with pwr brakes. Street/Comp Cross member 215/65R BFG Radial tires OPENTRACKER has this on their site: STREET SPECS * Caster: +2° to +3.5° Manual Steer +2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer Camber: 0 to -.5° Toe: 1/8″ in STREET PERFORMANCE SPECS * Caster: +2.0° to +3.5° Manual Steer +2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer Camber: -.5° to -1.5° Toe: 1/8″ in * Caster and camber settings should be the same on both sides for proper handling.

I got the pedal, booster and master cylinder from Mustang Steve. He sells a kit on his website. Mach1 Driver, I remember the Booster would mooo with every push of the pedal when I did the first bleeding of the brakes, it had no vacuum hooked up. Its a 351C stroked to a 408 the IC is 106, roller cam from Comp Cams I have a 1969 Mustang and used the rod that drops down on the brake pedal. I believe the 1970 uses a straight rod. I'm using a 1970 Master cyl, Dist block and 1970 front disk calibers.

I will have to try the testing tomorrow. But wanted to throw out there that I have NO assist. It just feels like manual brakes. The Booster and Master are from Mustang Steves, I believe the booster is rebuilt.

Before I blame the Cam I want to make sure the Booster isn't defective. With the engine running, I do not get the feel of a power brake pedal. I know if there is not enough Vacuum you would have pedal fade when pressing down on it long enough. The pedal right from the start feels like a manual pedal which I had before. I was concerned this might happen, but the guy who designed my cam said it would work with Pwr Brakes, I upgraded to stock 1970 Pwr Brake Booster and Master Cylinder. The cam is 602/574-235/241- IC 112, with 12" of vac. I thought to put a Vacuum booster canister in, but I believe that would work if I ONLY had a slight feel of a Pwr pedal from the start. I have vacuum direct from the Manifold and PCV is connected to the back of the carb. Thanks in advance!

If I gut a regulator and plug in the wires will it have an adverse reaction in the wiring system

I understand what you mean but I'm tired of looking at them hanging there. There is really no way to hide them unless I cut them out. I don't believe there would be a problem doing so, but would like to get the OK first.

I'm running a 1 wire Alternator and I'm trying to clean up the engine compartment. The Regulator wires (Orange, Yellow, Green/Red and a Yellow Pigtail) are just hanging there. I would like to cut them off and wrap them with electric tape. Is that OK to do?

I have a 408 Cleveland with an AOD trans I'm going to run in series with a brass Big Block Radiator and an external 30000 GVW cooler. Do I take the supply line from the trans and go first to the external cooler, then in & out of the radiator returning to the return end of the trans? Does it matter which port I first start with on the Radiator? Thank you!

I did the Shelby drop a year ago. That's what you see in the above picture. The welded in braces hide the original holes. I know I don't have the STOCK wrap around braces. I purposely did not use the wrap around braces that came with the reinforcement kit since my shock towers are in great shape, they are only used if you have damaged or cracked towers, they have nothing to do for flex. I purchased from Mustangs Unlimited, AMK UPPER CONTROL ARM BOLT KIT 65/66 MUSTANG. The bolts are fine thread and are 2 1/2" longer. I was able to hammer out the UCA bolts and hammer in the new ones. I'm thinking that they might interfere with my headers, so I'll take off a 1/4". Everything is all bolted up. Thanks for your advise!

Nah, it can't be rotated. On one side there is a U cut out to allow rotation on the brake pedal. Per 1969_Mach1's suggestion I looked into the NAPA site and found a switch for Pwr Brakes ECH SC201 and non power SC200. I'll check it out tomorrow. Glad to still see ya around!

I was told by John at Street or Track that the wrap around braces are needed if I had cracked towers. He said most of the strength and support comes from the B302 and vertical tower braces that are welded to the frame. As in my case, I have good shock towers and by welding in the wrap arounds it leaves me little room to access the plugs on my Cleveland motor. I was tempted to snug it up a little more and leave it as is, but my conscience kept telling me other wise Good move on Pro Motor Sports by supplying the bolts. I wish I was advised of this concern, because I'm sure the venders are well aware. Now I have to do the job twice. Well I'm sure glad you Guys steered me in the right direction. Safety to me is most important and I sure don't want the nut walking off and dropping a UCA or the spring kicking out.

I just finished doing the conversion to power brakes and I was told that I need an automatic power brake light switch BWD S259. When I installed the switch the contact prongs face to the drivers side, therefore the wire needs to move more to the left, but when the pedal is applied the wire is pulled tight. I have no more slack any whereelse on the a wire. I noticed on my Manual brake light switch that the prongs face right thus allowing more slack for the wire. When I look at both switches they look exact except one has the prongs to the left and the other to the right. I was wondering if I can still use my manual brake light switch?? Or is there something I'm not understanding,

Glad I'm not the only one with this problem.... I guess you guys are right about replacing them. I'll need at least a 2 1/2" bolt and AMK sells a complete set for a 1966 Mustang with fine thread. That is a low gloss Black engine enamel paint, the overhead florescent lights give it a different color.

Bob, so there is no other way but to press or hammer the bolts out?? Is it possible to take one bolt out at a time while the coil spring is attached? I wonder why this hasn't happen to anyone else. The UCA are a Scott Drake product purchased from Open Tracker.

I did the Shock Tower Reinforcement and placed the UCA in place to see how it fits. I found due to the extra 1/8" thickness from the brace, the bolt was a little shorter in length. I thought to replace them with longer 8 grade bolts but could not budge the bolts from the UCA. I figured maybe the bolts are permanent, so I put the UCA back on and tighten the nut and torqued the nuts to 90#, the bolt threads did not go past the nut, so I retorqued them to 130# and now the bolts are almost flush with the nut. The max I can torque them is 140# which will not give me much more thread stick out. I'm enclosing a picture. Is it safe to keep it as is or do I need longer bolts. Has anyone removed their UCA bolts and how? Thanks for your help.

So I used SEM Copper and had a lot of platter, so I tacked everything up then took a wire brush to expose some metal, I was able to weld in the shock tower reinforcements but not happy how the welds came out and I believe it had a lot to do with the weld through prime. I gonna apply some seam sealer.