prayers1

As some of you may have already read my previous post about the rear drums not stopping, when I forcefully turned the tire with someone applying the brake pedal. Therefore at this point, I am combining the 2 threads which continues as follows: I picked up a Mityvac brake bleeder and did both rear drums. I was not getting a solid steady stream of fluid, it had more bubbles in it as I that it should, but it did vacuum out the MC 2x, so I know the fluid was traveling. I looked all over and could not find any source of a leak in fact the pressure held still on the Mityvac even when it was fully pumped. I then adjusted the park brake and readjusted the rear brakes. I had the wife apply the brakes while the car was on jack stands, in neutral and running, The left rear was tight but the RR still could be turned and inch of so, so I adjusted the brake again and it held. It was easier to turn the wheel in reverse, then forwards. I feel I may have it adjusted too tight, it's really hard to tell because I always feel friction as I spin the tire to check for tightness. I took the RR apart and applied some anti-seize to the threads of the brake star, put it all together and it felt the same as before, in fact both sides feel tight as I try to free spin it. Next, I hooked the Vacuum gauge to the brake system in-line with the reserve canister, I was getting around 14" of vac at idle. Cruising it was 19 and wot 22. The brakes are stopping the car and the front nose dives but not the same as our newer cars. I slammed on the brakes and had the right front lock up a little. At this point I do not know how much the rears are stopping the car. The car does stop and I feel the somewhat feeling of pwr asst but I wonder how it would stop on a panic brake or stopping at high speeds. I do want to take the car to the track and I surely want to be able to stop after hitting 100 mph. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Hard to get a pic, but this is the bottom of the booster showing the blistered paint.

det0326- Here's a couple pics of the PS hoses with the shrink wrap. I had to make a U out of a piece of tubing for the low pressure since the outlet faced the front and the rubber hose would kink. I'm no not like the hose clamps they are just temporary til I find a better looking one.

I have no lost of fluid in the MC, so I doubt its leaking at the booster I have not presented this to Steve, he sold the parts business to a co worker and he is not on the web as much as he use to be. This is something baffling to me, so if I can't work it out eventually I'll contact h

I ran mine from the box around the shock tower but up near the valve cover, then to the pump. I bought the Borgesen 6 cyl hose's since the pressure line was a little longer than the 8 cyl. I went to a local shop, measured the high pressure line, cut and put a new fitting. But before placing the fitting on I installed a Heatshield Products blackk1000 degree 3/4" heat sleeve. I think it looks OK, not to crazy about the hose in view, but I am very happy with the Borgesen PS. It feels great to steer the car with one hand at a stand still.

When Mustang Steve sent the complete package out, he sent the wrong MC. I was told they only had one other MC left which is the 2nd one sent to me. The difference was the fittings on the MC, they sent a 69 instead of a 70, since I am using the 1970 brake lines and Port valve. Point is, there was no preset match to MC & Booster and I was never told or aware that I had to set the push rod depth, which would of been a very simple thing to do prior to installation. Yesterday I was running power steering lines for the Borgesen PS box and saw the bottom of the Brake Booster paint all blistered from heat ( I painted it prior to install). I have the Sanderson's Shorty headers. They are not close enough or touching the Booster but I'm sure a lot of heat does build up there. Could heat be a factor on the Boosters performance? Yesterday I picked up the Mityvac MV8000 at a local parts store, now I have to find the time and figure how to use it.

I don't believe there is anything wrong with the stroke of the pedal. It only bottoms out when I bleed the brakes. How would I know if it needs adjusting and do all have this adjustment?

I never got front lock up even when I had the same disc set up with manual brakes. I purchased the Booster / MC from Mustang Steve's, there was no adjustment on the Booster rod but the rod did have the drop down as needed for a 1969. All lines and hoses are new, no kinks. It maybe the Port/Dist block, but I'd like to try a mini vac at the rear to see that it is properly bleed. Good knows how many times the wife and I bleed those brakes.

There is but the one hose to the rear that divides the two lines, that is new.

There is a metal pin that you can buy that screws where the plastic Brake Light Pressure Switch Pin screws in. This allows you to bleed the brakes w/o the Port valve being triggered. After bleeding the brakes I replaced the metal pin with the correct Brake Light Pressure Switch Dual Pin. I can say that the brake warning light does not com eon. I do have weaker pressure in the rear when bleeding the brakes. So now I can say, maybe I messed up rebuilding the Port valve. Maybe the slide bar in the valve is stuck, I don't know? What Mach 1 Rider mentioned it looks like I may have a Port Valve issue, Still I'm not sure???

Hardware is installed properly, I did do the back up to do the self adjuster and MC was bench bleed. I'm thinking of getting one of those brake handheld vacuum pumps.

I redid my entire brake system this year. I installed a rebuilt Brake pwr booster and MC from Mustang Steve's, he also supplied the correct brake pedal. I have a 1969 Fastback but changed the spindles to a 1970 with the 1970 front disc brakes, The rear has if IIRC, 2 1/2 or 2 1/4 drums. I rebuilt the 1970 port/dist valve, parts were sourced from Muscle Car Research. I put Stainless Steel Brakes lines all around. All of the drum brake hardware is new and the rear wheel cylinders are new as well. Per my other post I installed a vacuum reserve canister due to lack of vacuum from too large of a cam. I haven't resolved that issue yet, but the car is stopping but not as best as I wish. Here's my concern: I've bleed the brakes several times and made adjustments to the drums to the point that I second guess myself if they are too tight. When I have some one apply the brakes with the car not running I can still with great effort turn both rear tires. When I go for a test drive and slam the brakes the brakes do not lock up. I had the disc and drums on the previous manual system and the rear would lock up but not the front. I was thinking that I have a heavy metallic brakes shoe in front that might keep it from locking up. I thinking that most of my stopping pwr is coming from the front with very little assistance from the rear. What can I do to get more from the rear. My adjustment is more on the heavy side so I thought maybe to adjust the parking brake, but I don't know if that would help. What do you all think?

Wow! The Repro Fan is $246 and clutch is $53. I'm gonna shop for a used one for now.

1969_Mach1- Great Video! Thanks. WCCC also puts out nice informative videos. I actually spoke to the guy/owner in the video about shock tower reinforcement brackets. He took his time with me, explained what I needed and I ended up buying another set from him that actually was a much better fit. On my way to order the BB fan kit.

MTF- Nice stuff but your items are always too pricey for me. 1969_Mach1- I did a search on eBay and found several different 7 blades types. Would you know what your part number is? Thank you.

Today I hooked a Vac gauge to the manifold vac port and drove the car. I immediately felt like I had NO brakes, similar to the feel of manual brakes. I was quite surprised since I had the belief that the pwr brakes felt like manual brakes, but now driving w/o vac to the booster I can easily feel the difference. After I reconnect the manifold Vac to the inline reserve tank I felt power brakes but not the strongest pedal as our newer cars. Cruising with the pedal down I was getting 17-18" of vac.

det0326_ I already had the manual brake set up using the Maverick MC and a separate rear port valve. Using the same 70 disc/drum I have the manual stopped the car but with great effort. I think the way to go is with a electric vac set up but they are pricey.

1969_Mach1, I was just browsing through this thread and see that yopu stated that the Shelby drop requires a ball joint wedge kit. I never heard of that and had mine done for about 2 years w/o this kit. Can you explain a little bit more in depth and is it really necessary. Thanks!

First off, When I go for a test ride to test my vacuum, should I tee the gauge between the manifold vacuum and booster OR do you want me to ONLY test manifold vacuum??? In my case, I have very little real estate in the engine compartment , in fact I had to install the reserve canister up in the wheel well. Knowinging this, what would be the best to use an electric pump or Hydro Boost? I have very little knowledge of each, so if someone can basically explain that would help all who read this thread. THANKS!

From what I'm gathering here, no matter what I do with the present system there will be no improvement. If I was to revamp this system then what should I use with the existing front 70 disc/drum & Port/Dist valve set up.

Ok I understand, Next time I take the car out I will that test. I wasn't sure what to watch for, now I know. THANKS!

I don't understand. Isnt that what the Reserve Canister is for?

I already installed a reserve vacuum can

I have taller than most VC's and I cannot get the rear bottom bolt out. When I pull the bolt up it hits the booster. If I have too, I will cut the bolt rather than loosening all of the exhaust, motor etc, etc, etc....

That you 1969_Mach1, I appreciate all of your help!! You obviously have more Cam knowledge than me. Yes, loud car with Flowmaster 40's, 5500-6000 rpm range, The motor is by far the best I ever had. Lots of power and quick to rev. The idle is very rough, even in warm weather at first cold start up, it takes a long time to get it to idle w/o feathering the pedal. I would need to lift the left side of the motor to replace the MC & Booster, lots of work. Mustang Steve no longer personally sells parts, a guy who worked for him took over and I had to get 3 different MC's before they sent the right one and it was their last. I was thinking the last ones are always some sort of blem, return or the black sheep of the bunch. Who knows if the MC & Booster are well built. Barnett said (this in response to me pulling the vac line off the check valve w/ the engine off and heard the escape of air): if this was with the engine off your booster is likely not leaking but you can also test it with a vacuum gauge . this should be done with the pedal up and then partially depressed. How to do this test?? Tie in a vac line w/ gauge between the check valve? What am I looking for?? I really want to thoroughly test the booster before taking the motor apart. What do you suggest? I rebuilt the port/dist valve could there be a hidden problem with that??? Appreciate any suggestions!