prayers1

I checked the fuses all good. Changed flashers and swapped flashers, still no turn signals. brakes work, hazards work all lights blink. just realized when I got back into the car to turn hazards off, I hit the steering wheel and the hazards went off. So, I put the hazards back on and moved the steering wheel. By moving the steering wheel it turns off the emergency flashers. That seems odd??

I guess the more you drive, the more problems arise. This time it’s the blinkers. I’ve already replaced the wires in the steering column and blinker assembly. Yesterday I replaced the flasher thats located left of the radio. The other day it stopped working, then came on. Now it’s off for good. What should I do! Appreciate everyone’s help!!!

How do you check amperage at the alternator? FYI- I’m not using the voltage regulator, just the 1 wire from the Solenoid to the Alternator So, shorten the 1 wire. Should I change it to the 4 gauge? All grounds are with a 4 ga wire. (1) Ground from block to firewall,. (2) ground from battery to radiator support. (3) Ground from battery to Alternator, from there to block.

Had a good cruise last night, about 200 cars up and down the street. Now gave an 8 ga alternator wire. Last night with headlight on it read 13.5 . The drive home at night was about an hour, read 13.5. Without likes it’s 14+. Checked wires when I got home, none were hot, either was the alternator, should I change the Alternator wire from 8 to 4 gauge? Someone on the Facebook Cruise page posted my car

Thank you 1969_Mach 1 for that information. It does look more stable then the Jegs one I have. You mention that my wire looks too short, but wouldn’t short equal less resistance. I would think that’s better. I might have come to that bridge that I’ll have to replace the 51 year old wiring this Winter. Because of Covid, Car Shows are starting to pop up all over and the weather is right for cruising!!!!! Thanks again all for your guidance!

As your aware I’m not using the voltage regulator at all. Ive been using this system with a 60 amp alt for a few years. I just installed the 140 amp alt, so I guess it’s too early to tell if things were to melt. Since you guys have brought up the inadequacy of the 10 ga alt wire. I’m a little freaked and don’t want to have any concerns, especially if I have a cruise tomorrow night and it’s about an hour away. So, I wound feel a little more comfortable if I change that 10ga one wire to a 4 ga. It seems this has brought m to a charging issue. So, if I change the alt wire to 4 ga that should balance things for now until I address the headlight issue. So..... Should I change that now???

Mach 1 Drive: You stated: “The 4 ga will handle 136 amps. It does no good to have 4 ga wire on the negative side and only 10 ga wire on the positive side. You have to balance the equation- right now the system will only handle 51 amps.” Have a cruise to attend tomorrow. What can be done with the alternator/ positive/negative & one wire fuse. IMO- Per you quote, if I replaced the 10 ga 1-wire to the Alternator, such as the same size of the Ground/Negative then it should balance out on the Alternator side?????? Then I can do the relay to lights another time?

Mach 1 Drive: You stated: “The 4 ga will handle 136 amps. It does no good to have 4 ga wire on the negative side and only 10 ga wire on the positive side. You have to balance the equation- right now the system will only handle 51 amps.” Have a cruise to attend tomorrow. What can be done with the alternator/ positive/negative & one wire fuse. IMO- Per you quote, if I replaced the 10 ga 1-wire to the Alternator, such as the same size of the Ground/Negative then it should balance out on the Alternator side?????? Then I can do the relay to lights another time?

If I can get the stock style low beam to be brighter, is all I’d like to do. If I can, then no need for modern style. i have the Jegs 1 wire/60 amp fuse set up. I’m Not best on guessing the gauge It is. I believe it’s 10 ga. Should I get a Red battery cable type of wire and use that as the 1 - wire from solenoid to Alternator, with the 60 amp fuse in between???? then would it be balanced?????

If I can get the stock style low beam to be brighter, is all I’d like to do. If I can, then no need for modern style. i have the Jegs 1 wire/60 amp fuse set up. I’m Not best on guessing the gauge It is. I believe it’s 10 ga. Should I get a Red battery cable type of wire and use that as the 1 - wire from solenoid to Alternator, with the 60 amp fuse in between???? then would it be balanced?????

I have a 10 ga wire from the solenoid to a 60 amp fuse, to alternator. I have 4 ga Ground from battery to block, from block to back of alternator

Are you suggesting to re-wire the headlight wiring from the switch to the headlight and putting a relay in between?? Or placing a relay in between the existing headlight harness, if so where??

Idle 14.10-14.50 headlight on 14.5 headlight and hi beam 14.36 fan no lights 14.27 fan and headlight 13.40 fan and high beams 13.30 I have stock wire and stock headlamps low beam are Wagner high beams are Sylvania Halogen

Looking to up grade lights. Don’t wNt to spend a ton and don’t want a lot of wiring strung all over. Dont know what’s better HID or LED. What’s out there????

I have a new one wire 140 amp alternator. I have dual fans and each fan has its own relay. CFMs on fan is 1500 each, on startup each draws 30 amps, when spinning each draws 20 amps. With the fans on it off, the lights are still dull. Ill try grounding the light ground (Per Midlifes description) to the battery ground I’m attending a car show this weekend and the car is already parked at the convention center. I’ll do the voltage check when I get back home. Thanks!

After hooking up my electric fans. All lights are brownish. I have a fairly new headlight switch, I have ground from the back of the engine block to body, I have ground from battery to block and I have ground from battery to bottom of radiator support. Is there a separate ground coming from the headlight wire???

I know. Wish I had deleted the shock towers to be

Finally got the last of the mail order parts and finished the project today. With much debate, I put in a 180 t stat and 195/175 fan switch. With the other choices I felt the fan would never turn off. final result - works great ! Fans turn on and off!!

Do you want to sell your TMI seats or trade. I have the Mach 1 buckets with the red stripe. Send me a picture of yours

Candoo- are you referring to the by-pass restrictor plate?? There is also a blocking plate (circular disc) that goes in the block to stop the flow to the water pump outlet for the advance vacuum. I have the by-pass, but had the wrong t-stat. That might of been my big issue for getting up there in temps. I ordered the correct one from TMeyer racing. What temp does your Cleveland run on an average? it is a tight engine bay for my type of motor. Trying my best to figure this out. I agree that I’ll probably go with the 180 stat and 195 fan switch. I don’t mind keeping the temperature in the 180-190’s. Fans will probably never turn off, I really have no other options beside what I said above

351 Cleveland stroked to 408, 515 hp. had a 180 T-stat and always ran 185-195 degrees. Long wait at light or racing it would run 205-210. Now switched to aluminum radiator and dual fans. What thermostat and fan combo should I use? choices are: 195 or 180 thermostat 185 on / 165 off or 195 on / 175 off

Cleveland’s and Windsor’s are completely different when it comes to coolant. Ive learned its best to use the water pump port, not the thermostat housing Thanks for the info!

Just an update since I’m waiting for parts in the mail. picked up 2 1/2” bottom perches just like the originals but made just for aluminum radiators by Scott Drake. took off the thermostat housing, since I forgot which stat I had. To my surprise it’s a 180. My car always ran 195, so I thought that’s what it is. During this venture I found that Cleveland’s need a special plunger on the T-stat to close off the by-pass. Not having that type could of contributed to my over heating symptoms. Clevelands run hot by nature, I believe getting a fan sensor at 200 on / 180 off and a 180 thermostat. Opinions welcomed!

Yes, I see your point. That’s why I threw in the sensor temperature, because I wasn’t sure which to get 180 or 195. Also, for years I’ve been told always to run a 190 thermostat. I’ve been looking all over and found no radiator shops that can weld in a bung. In any case, I learned a little more about the Cleveland’s today. It appears that I should be using the plugged up spot on the water pump. The cavity under that plug shares the same cavity as the block water temp gauge. The Cleveland’s have a dry intake, not like the Windsor. ill be picking up a 180 thermostat! in the picture below you can see the plug area goes through the water pump and into the same cavity on the block as the water temp sensor.

Thanks for the grammar correction. Never was that good in English☹️