prayers1

barnett468- Thank you for the engine bay compliment! Now you have me concerned about spark blow out. The MSD chart below shows my .50 gap within limits. I hate changing plugs on that Cleveland!! Good point 1969_Mach1, Here's MSD's chart: COMPRESSION.......PLUG GAP Up to 10:5:1.........0.040"-0.060" 10.5:1 - 13.0:1.....0.032"-0.040" Above 13.0:1........0.025"-0.032" "We recommend using a standard copper plug, 1-2 heat ranges cooler than stock OE; we really have no preference for brands. Although we do suggest staying away from any "HYPE", platinum, or iridium type plugs. When you combine them with a CD type ignition, they can cause pre-ignition problem". My compression is around 10.5 -10.75. I'm using the Autolite 25 how do you know what number to get if you go 1-2 heat ranges cooler. Looking towards hoses, such as fuel, return & supply lines. I took a tour on the Russell website and see a few interesting ones there. 1, Twist-lok, but I guess it wouldn't be right because there is no metal protection around the hose. 2, Powerflex hose which is PTFE inner liner with 308 stainless steel braid. 3, ProClassic hose which is a nylon fiber outer braid with a CPE inner liner. I'm not a fan of metal lines with crushed sleeves, I think in the long run it will leak. Mach1 Driver- You gave a pretty good detailed write up on the Twist-Lok hose. Is this what FiTech said to use? The only thing I'd be concerned about is road debris or exhaust pipe heat. That's why I'm leaning toward the braided type. Have you purchased the hoses yet or installed the same??? Which hose is the preferred choice for doing this EFI conversion?

IIRC, my cranking pressure is around 185-190, cam is around 550 lift. The prior Dist, the Mallory Unilite I gapped them at 45, with this MSD I set them at 50. It has always been my belief that the wider gap is benefited at lower rpms, the gap really doesn't make a difference on the upper end. Due to the nature of the big valve Cleveland, it's like a slow moving train off the line, but in the upper RPM's it screams. So, I thought a wider gap might give more burn time, who knows I could be wrong. Always willing to learn, so whats your take?

Just got off the phone with MSD, I explained my set up and he advised me to get the Blaster SS #8207. He explained that the SS has a faster recharge rate then others, 300 milliamps. Which seems to be the most concern. Also, he said not to run the wires from the coil and MSD 6a to dist in parallel. As for EMI's, do not run anything together in parallel if one of the wires has a signal (such as the coil wire wrapped with a signal wire). I know the Blaster SS #8207 is not the Canister type I was first looking for, but the guy convinced me to get it. So, Mach1 Driver, the Tech was actually repeating what you stated (Good info). Thought I'd pass that on.

Thanks for the wire tip! Wires are not in their permanent location, once settled I will make a better connect w/ shrink tubing. I'm concerned about your earlier post: "The only thing I would caution is that if you use a high voltage coil, the higher output voltage can interfere with electronics in devices like the EFI, MSD, radio, etc. The higher energy coil will broadcast electrical noise like a radio station that can be conducted by wires or radiated directly into other electronic devices. Its called EMI- electromagnetic interference and can be difficult to remedy." You found the type of Coil and color I was looking for, Thank you! But, isn't it a little stronger than my e-coil and isn't that what you were warning about. Too much voltage for EFI. Now I am concerned about transmitting EMI's to the EFI that has the board mounted on the FiTech TBI. Also, my set up has a stock Big Block Radiator and Aluminum fan, it runs pretty hot during the Summer cruise, around 210* at a stand still or slow drive and 195* on the Highway. One of the advantages of the e-coil is the finned body that allows cooling of the coil. Do you think the canister type such as the MSD 8222 will get too hot or not? I will mount it as it would lock in the stock location near the left head. Thanks!

Are you talking about the Street Fire MSD Coiln 5524? The write up says: The E-core dual connector and TFI coils feature epoxy-filled construction and 48,000 maximum volts. They mount directly in place of the factory coil and accept the factory connectors for an easy installation. Primary Resistance: 0.350 ohms and Secondary Resistance: 7.8K ohms. Is this the one you think I should get?

Part 2- The MSD Billet Dist 8577 stabbed in the easiest then any other Dist used. Usually I have to jack the car up so that the oil pump rod tilts in a way for the distributor to slide onto, not w/ the MSD. I don't know why and I took it in & out 2x's, maybe because it's Billet made? As for clearance with the Blue Thunder Intake, no problems the housing turns w/o hitting the large intake runners. As for the Shaker, I use a homemade type that I made from a stock metal air cleaner base. The clearance is close but it works and one with the aftermarket fiberglass shaker base that was used with a 289. It has a tighter clearance but it works as well. I took a few pictures for you, one showing the intake clearance, one with the metal and fiberglass air cleaner base and one of the Mallory e-coil location and MSD 6a mounted behind the left headlight.

Thank you for clearing that up. In my hast I ran through the thread and thought different, glad you steered my straight. Anyway that's good news! This will be a 2 part response: Part 1- Yes I did install the Dist and MSD 6a, did a quick hook up to see if I had it wired it right and started it up. I haven't decided how I'm gonna hide my wires so I haven't cut them yet. Interesting that you mentioned the coil output. I have been using the Mallory e-coil, Prim 1.400 ohms, secondary 8.9k, max 46000. It's mounted on the fender apron. I do some street racing but mostly show the car and wanted to get more of a stock look, so I have already been thinking of the canister type coil, but when comparing canister type coils like the MSD Blaster 2, Blaster SS, Crane PS 20 or others, I think that the e-coils are still stronger and always believed to use the strongest voltage possible. I never play the radio so I never heard any electrical noise from the e-coil. Now with the above mentioned, tour making think to go to a lower voltage (which is against my thinking), do you think I should get the Canister Coil or stick w/ the e-Coil. I would be happier if you said the Canister type since it fits the engine style I'm after. What coil do you think I should use with my application?

Black_69_FB, Ok I see. What about the comments regarding the MSD 6a interfering, when FiTech actual has the diagram on the Instruction sheet to use? Is there an advantage using the MSD 6a?

I'm still a little green on this project and each time I read this thread, new ideals pop up. I need a little help here figuring what to do....... I have a 351 Cleveland and setting initial and mechanical advance was always a mystery, I never knew if I had the perfect timing. With that said, I'd like the EFI to control timing. This Thread mentioned that using a MSD 6a IC box caused troubles from multiple sparks as the EFI wants one clean spark. The FiTech Instruction sheet shows that a MSD IC box can be used. You would think more spark, more power. Based on FiTech & MSD, I was advised to pull my Mallory Unilite Dist and use the MSD Mech Dist #8577 w/ the advance lock out option. So, I just installed the MSD #8577 & MSD 6a and got the car running with the Carb. The Dist is not a ready to run unit and needs a IC box for it to work. So, now I'm confused w/ the timing control feature. I assume the FiTech trigger wire can make the MSD Dist work or not???? Is there an advantage using the MSD 6a???? I can't believe behind that little electronic control box mounted on the FiTech Throttle Body has more power than the MSD 6a. Open to opinions!

Reason I changed Distributors is that I want the FiTech to control timing, also for that to happen you have to lock out your advance. The Mallory Unilite did not have that option but the MSD does. For now I'm gonna use the one I've been using, the Mallory Promaster e series coil 30450. This upgrade to EFI as you all know can get pretty expensive, so what ever I can reuse or save on I'll. I don't want an external pump, so I'm still on the fence, Aeromotive in tank or Tanks Inc in tank. Wires should be in the mail today, If I can get to it, I'll hook up the wires to get it to run then I'll reroute the electrical so it looks nice and clean in the engine compartment. As for test driving and noticeable difference with the MSD, that will have to wait for warmer weather, it will be in the 30's this week.

This was posted on the FiTech Facebook page. An interesting read if your wanting a FiTech. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=694965&utm_content=bufferda68a&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer Please feel free to ad any other FiTech installs on this thread.

Got the MSD Distributor 8577 installed. I first had the advanced locked out, but then decided to unlock it and drive it until I get the FiTech TBI. I did install the MSD 6a behind the left headight on the Radiator support. I have an aftermarket water overflow sitting in front of it. You'd have to bend over the side to see the MSD 6A. I decided to mount it within the engine compartment instead of inside the car, because I read numerous complaints of a buzzing sound. I forgot my spark plugs wires have the wrong terminals for the dist cap, so I ordered another set and hopefully I'll fire it up by the end of this week. Next is the mechanical to electric fuel pump exchange.

barnett468- Thank you for responding:) Yeah, I thought a bigger audience would be more responses, wrong. I kinda assumed that, but the manual said nothing about leaving the weights and springs off. First time using this Dist and the lock out feature. Below is a picture of the manual............. You can see it says nothing about leaving those items off. I'm changing the Dist because my Mallory Unilite does not support EFI timing control. I first wanted to get the ignition finished, then get use to it w/ the Carb until changing to EFI. Next-EFI fuel setup.

I have the MSD 8577 Billet Dist. I want to lock out the Dist for the EFI timing control. I did as the instructions say, remove springs, weights and advance bushing, then remove roll pin and slide up shaft. I rotated the shaft 180* and put the advance pin in the hole. After putting it all together the weights will not go on how I took them off, unless if I flip them over. Do the weights go back on? Do the springs go back on? Or do I just keep them off, the manual says nothing about leaving them off. Whats up?

Raven R Code- Sorry but I don't have an answer. In my case, I'm changing from a Mallory Unilite vac advance to a MSD 8577 magnetic Billet w/no vac adv and is capable to lock out. I couldn't use the Mallory on the FiTech, but I can with the MSD since the TBI will control timing. As for the MSD Ignition Control box, I have to have it to run the MSD Dist. I decided to mount it behind the left headlight w/in the engine compartment.

MAD IN DC- Thanks for the tip.

My main objective is to have it hidden, being that I show my car and less aftermarket visibility is better. I'm thinking behind the pass kick panel or pass splash shield.

Buckeye- I forgot one question. How did you run your wires to Battery and Dist?

Thanks Buckeye for the reply. I'm not using the front under dash speaker and I won't be able to weld studs. Do yo think I could or should mount it there or would it be visible from the outside looking in?

I Googled, 1969 Mustang MSD controller and found one of Buckeyes responses with a picture showing that he welded some nuts underneath the cowl inside the dash and hung the IC. I was thinking what about the pass apron below the solenoid, but just on top of the frame rail. I show the car, so I trying to hide it somewhat.

The Cap-Adapt and larger dist. might not fit with my Blue Thunder Manifold and Shaker Scoop. Is it possible to post a few pics of your install? Thank you. Hey, Buckeye are you out there. Did your Controller get too hot?

I gearing towards an EFI set up and one of the things I want to do first is change my Mallory Unilite to a MSD 8577 Magnetic Dist. The MSD 8577 needs a Ignition Controller to run, so I got the MSD 6A. I didn't need the 6AL w/ the rev limiter since I have an automatic and hopefully won't miss any gears. I'd like to your opinion on where you guys mounted your Ignition Controller (IC). I recall Buckeye mounted his under the dash, but his thread is soooooo long it's hard to find. If you can, post pictures and explain how you did it. Thanks to all!!

So, you guys liking the Glens Performance tank will have to have an external pump? From what I gather, there is a incoming and out going fitting that you tie into the pump and return. The sending unit is only used for the fuel gauge ?????

Sorry my bad. I confused vent/return lines. My choice is: Vent to filler tube Return via the one on either the Aeromotive or Tanks Inc fuel pumps. Still against the thought of using the drain as a return.

That's a very interesting point Mach1 Driver. I don't have the figures but always thought it would be a bad ideal to run a return under pressure via tank drain or sending unit. Besides, the tank drain plug is at it's lowest level exposing itself to road debris and the elements, even if you use a 45*. IMO, go w/o and resistance such as the neck filler tube. I'm on an EFI learning curve, so if using a return under resistance is OK, please advise why.