prayers1

I would be keeping my rear, so I’d need to weld on the tabs. question: how are you lining up the tabs to be welded on the axle tube? To you supply a jig?

Looking forward to it! I asked in my prior question. How do you align the brackets to weld the tubes in relation to the pinion angle?? Do you have a jig/bracket that mounts to the rear to guide the brackets to the tubes???

Rich, I have reviewed your set up, it is quite different then the ones above, since you are incorporating the Watts link. But you have caught my interest. My concern for handling is straight line racing, keeping the rear straight! I have no interest in Concourse racing. I have a 69, how will this work with 2-1/2” exhaust tailpipes? How are you setting pinion angle when welding the brackets to the top of the axle tubes for the links? Do you have a template that guides the location of those brackets, such as the one used on the TCP 4 link? I meet the owner of an Elanor Build. He said you were very helpful with the purchase of the products and during the installation. Word of mouth is always the best advertisement!!

I’d like to put in a 4 link, I've been looking at Heidts or Total Control Products. Any preference? I’d also like to put in mini tubs, the ones sold by Detroit Speed. I don’t want to cut the frame rails. I know both companies above sell a different 4 link kit that accommodates mini tubs, but you have to cut out the frames. Without cutting up the frame rails, how wide of a tire can I use? Thanks in advance!!

Was at a NSRA show this weekend and I took an award. ThT evening we had a cruise, but I couldn’t park, the car wouldn’t turn off. Instead on pulling the coil wire, I banged on the solenoid and it turned off. Had to be back Sunday morning by 10 for the award ceremony. Wouldn’t you know it. The gremlin came back. This time when I went to put on the battery pos wire the motor would start to turn. I eventually got another Standard Solenoid and problem solved. Who wound think a 2 week old solenoid went bad already

Mach1Rider- if you’re referring to the ignition box (MSD) that hot wire is going directly to + on the battery.

Ignition switch was replaced 5 years ago. But I to am leaning that way. has a new Sol and good ground. its a 69

This was happening every now and then, now it’s more often. When I go to turn the motor off, it keeps running. I have to pull the coil wire to stop it. Did notice when keyed on the tach isn’t working until I move the ignition key. My MSD ignition box red light goes ON when keyed on and OFF with key off. When things start to act up, I put my positive battery wire on and the red light is ON with out turning the key on. ??????

Thank you!!

I converted to a 1 wire alternator years ago. The Voltage Regulator wires are not being used and just hangs there. I would like to clean things up and get rid of them. Can I?

Ok Appreciate the info Mach1 Driver!!

Yes your right Midlife, I was thinking the same. better $60 than $300. everytime I look for a Halogen low beam it’s either not available or it’s the 7” bulb.

I would say kinda normal for that era. just suggested the ground ideal cause I’m trying to squeeze out and positives that I can. I feel I’ve reached the realization that the low beams are actually working as should and that I’m to use to modern lighting. All in all, thanks to all for your help. With this Post I’ve been able to improve the charging system and clean up a few of the bad ends

Fans and lights on was the highest at -.017. i believe that if I have 13.5 volts with the lights and fan on, then that is good enough for me. i do believe That the 25 watt low beam bulb is a little brighter than before. I also believe they have been at its brightest even with the old 60 alternator. I will be getting LEDs, so that should take some burden off the load. I wonder, if I take the ground to the lights in the above picture directly to the battery negative. If that would make them brighter???

Don’t know if I did this right. put voltmeter red lead to positive post and neg lead to back of alt bolt from the 1-wire. w/o fans & lights with car running -.015 with fan and lights -.017 With fan no lights-.15 Charging at battery 14.56 charging at battery pos and neg on alt case 14.56

Is this the one your talking about 1969_Mach1. So I assume that is the only ground for headlight on a 69?

Put a new Solenoid on, cause I took the nut off the lug to get more room for the large terminals. Somehow I messed up the solenoid, cause the motor won’t turn off. Well, good thing for that, cause the new solenoid has a longer lug. I cleaned off all terminal ends and reinstalled the solenoid. Started the car and the heads lights seem a little brighter. Actually the side markers and all seem brighter. Was a little late in the evening to check voltage ( didn’t want to wake the neighbors up). I’ll get to it this morning. Still need clarification where the ground is for the headlights.

I have a ground from the back of the block to the firewall and a ground from the negative terminal to the lower section of the radiator support as noted in the pictures. So, should I switch to ground to alternator first then to block? Also do you know where the ground is for the lights. Is it 1 ground for all lights or is there a ground on each bulb. Thank you Danno!

Check all my voltage drops positive And negative and all were Zero. This was with out the car running. Is the ground wire for the headlights below the solenoid? If so that was Zero as well

Danno- My mistake, ground first to block then alternator. Today I just finished changing the 1-wire to a 4 ga. Old 1-wire was 26”, the new is 19”. I removed the 60 amp fuse because the terminal ends of the 4 ga wouldn’t fit. I’ve replaced it with a 100 amp breaker. taking a break before I test everything in about an hour.

Mach 1 Rider, Hey old friend how have you been. I’ve been thinking of you since those forest fires. Didn’t you move to Oregon? In regards time the Horn. It’s deleted, so no problem!

Yes you are right. My main concern was no blinkers. I was using the hazards as a way to see if the bulbs work, I accidentally moved the steering column and found that it cancelled the hazards. I didn’t know that happened. I thought the hazards stayed on until You turned them off, as in modern vehicles

SUCCESS!!!! Even though I checked all fuses. I’ve exhausted my tracing of wires. I revisited the fuse box and took the #1 Fuse out. This time I realized the the prongs on one side of #1 was wider. I took a small wire brush and cleaned the terminal and squeezed the wide prong. I put in a new fuse and I have Blinkers !!!!! Short lived success, now back to “Brown lights” post Thanks to all for your Help!!!!

Last post disappeared?? Thank you Mach1 Driver!! Much clearer then the factory one I have. I usually would have to take a picture of the old one and blow it up. Made my eyes strain. Chased all wires and just found 1 ground off the left taillight. Also zip tied new blinker harness to main harness. Clips were dried out. This was just for extra insurance. Pulled steering wheel, no cuts, burns or loose wires.

Also, if I put the flashers on and hold the button in, then turn my wheel, I hear a click and it try’s to push the button out??????