prayers1

Thanks. 255/60/15 15x8x4.5bs IMO, I need to get a little lower in the front.

Here a picture with the additional 1/2" lowering block. Now I have (2) 1/2" blocks on each side. The rear did drop another 1/2". Distance from ground to wheel lip apex is 26" 7/8's on the Driver and 27" 1/8 on Pass. Also a full tank of gas.

Thanks for the reply's Guys! No Metal Fab on my end. I prefer just the bolt on route. First I have to see if its cost effective, I will be looking into the Viking set up, since they allow me to keep my stock upper & lower control arms. I'm not looking to spend a ton here since I feel that the stock suspension is adequate for me. IMO, it's amazing how well these Mustangs ride once all of the stock suspension has been replaced. I used all MOOG products cost effective and nice ride.

I had a similar problem, I have a ProMaster mini toque starter that also has the solenoid mounted to it and I still use the solenoid on the fender apron. NOTE, that I do have the one wire alternator. I'm assuming you have the same setup, a solenoid on the starter and fender apron. So this may sound basic, but did you try starting the the car by touching the fender solenoid with a screwdriver? Mine made the same loud clicking noise so I replaced the fender solenoid, still the same problem. Eventually I found that the rivet that attaches the terminal for the starter wire on the starter was ever so slightly loose. If I wedged in a screw between the rivet and solenoid body it would start. I had a local shop replace the starter solenoid. Also, could it be possible that the starter is binding and it needs to be shimmed?

Thanks for looking them up Mike. Yeah they are pretty expensive. I'm not finding any decent priced ones myself. The way its looking, I might have to pull out my spring compressor and cut a coil :(

I went thru that with Eaton Spring Co, and in the end I had to cut a 1/4 off the spring coil. Out of all the work done on this car, the worst of them all is R&R coil springs. I HATE IT! As careful as I am, I always have this thought of the spring popping off the compressor. That's why I've opted to go Coil Overs. Yes, they seem to be a little ridiculous on the price.

My goal is to be able to adjust the front end ride height w/o removing or cutting coil springs. Within the past 2 years, all of my front and rear suspension has already been replaced . Since then I have been cutting Coil Springs and adding lowing blocks to achieve the ride height I want. I want to go lower and fine tune it to the wheels I have. I'm going to get a set of 1" lowering leaf springs and use the 1/2" lowering blocks for adjustment. For the front I'd like to get a set of Coil Overs that will allow me to adjust the ride height. I am not so interested in the valving end of it. There are so many Coil Overs to chose from and they are very expensive. I'm wanting to keep my Upper & Lower Control Arms and just get a set of Coil Over's that will adapt. But the main function is ride height adjustment, preferably 1-3". Am I looking in the right direction or is there something else. Another thought, cost? Not looking to spend too much. Thanks all for your help!

Not really much difference than the last picture. My indention's are to get lowering leaf springs and fine tune it with the 2 sets of 1/2" lowing blocks that I have. As for the fronts I'd like to get a set of adjustable coil overs. I see as the rear goes down the front comes up, so after I get the rear to a point that I like, I can adjust the fronts with the front coil overs.

Mike, I was able to loosen up the spring eyes all around, I bounced the car a few times and had my daughter sit in the passenger seat while I retighten everything. You are correct that it did drop some. More importantly it dropped a 1/2" on the high side but only an 1/8" on the other. I also think that tightening the spring eyes while the car was on the ground (off the jack stands) makes a difference. Having my daughter sit on the passenger side, IMO I believe that I was able to tighten the suspension and somewhat lock it into that position. The back I believe is as low as I can go with 1" lowering blocks, If I want to lower it anymore I'll need to get a set of lowering leafsprings,hen fine tune it with 1/2" lowering blocks. Thanks Mike for your help!

3Katz-The 295's are on 15x10x5.5bs

I got my decal from http://www.phoenixgraphix.com/ford.php. It's the exact type used back in 69, it has reflective tape for safety standards back in the day. They are actually black but the cameras flash sometimes goes off or if I catch the sun in a certain way it will reflect gold or silver. When you order a set it will come with the 302, you will have to pay extra for any other number such as the 351, 460, 408 etc....... I will try to unload the spring eyes on both ends and see if that will loosen it up. My goal is to get the same stance as in 3Katz picture.

Brand new Scott Drake leafs, C5ZZ-5560 HD.

Well I had a chance to install another set of 1/2" lowering blocks, drove the car around to settle the suspension and then took measurements of the difference. Guess what? It's the same height as it was before, didn't drop another 1/2" what gives? The driver side is 27 3/8's and passenger 27 3/4" from ground to apex of wheel well. There has always been one side higher than the other. I do have Cal tracs and I've taken any tension out of it, just don't know why it hasn't dropped another 1/2"????

Here's mine \ Or this.

I kinda messed up on my explanation earlier. I actually have Caltracs with a 1/2" lowering block. I do have another set of 1/2" blocks and U bolts, so I can only go another 1/2" lower. Right now I got the bug and hopefully I'll it with in a couple of days. Thanks for the feedback!

For starters do what I asked.

If it still has the cast iron intake find the production numbers there, then stop over at Mustangtek.com Look on the upper top corner of the head where it meets the valve cover, look for a stamped number. If it has a 4 and a big dot next to it, its a 4V head. If not look for a 2 or 4.

Even though I think the 275's were in proportion all around the wheel well, the side wall was too big for me. Here's a side shot of the 255's. They match up good with the front, but don't fill the well as good as the 275's. Do you think there is too big of a gap at the apex of the wheel well with the 255's and judging from the rocker panel, do you think it is too high in the rear? Should I drop the rear that 1/2"????

Yes, I know it is all a personal opinion, but I bring this up because there is some sweet spot we all like 15" and 17" wheels to be sitting. Like I said earlier, I had 275"s on the rear but even though they are a nice wide size they have too big of a side wall. The fronts are 215/65/15 26" tall, rears are 275/60/15 28" tall From looking at other cars, I see that I need to keep the tire dia almost the same with the front and rear, the 275's were 2" taller, so I went to a 295 26.6" tall. I think they fit perfect ion the arch but stick out a little too much. I then switched to 255/60/15 that are 27.1"tall. IMO there are almost as wide as the 275's and almost the same Dia as the 295's. I have a 1/2" drop spacer on the rear and was thinking of taking it out. This brings me to my 1st question of what seems to be the ideal space between the fender and tire. I was wondering if the side spaces of the tire to the lower wheels well should be the same size as the top? Also when measuring at the rocker panel for a good stance, should the rear be an 1" higher or what ? I would like the rear to set a little lower, thus taking the 1/2" spacer out. WHAT DO YOU ALL THINK?

Congratulations! Your car does look fantastic! That 1st win is always the most important. I beat you got the bug now.

I have conflicting thoughts about what is the right stance for our cars. It looks like 15" wheels has an equal space all around the arch of the wheel well. On Taller wheels 17"-18", it seems to get the top of the tire into the arch. Does anyone agree or what do you think? In regards to 15" wheels, do you think the distance from the right and left side of the tire to the side arch should be the same height from the top of the tire to the arch? If measuring the stance at the rocker panel, should they be the same height from front to back or an 1", 2" different.

Thank you! They are a good comparison and close to my color. I think the back needs to be a little wider, but overall a nice representation!

Here's one with the 295's. The 295's are 26.6" tall & 255's are 27.1" they are almost the same height. The 275's are 28".

Well, based upon the consensus of keeping the vintage look, I'm sticking for now with the 15" magnum 500's. I've been running 2 sets on the rear, 295/50's and 275/60's. I love the FAT 295's, but they tend to stick out a tiny too much and I have a 5.5 bs and cant go any further. The 275's IMO, are too tall and too fat of a sidewall, so keeping with the Vintage look I put on a set of 255/60/15's w/ a Magnum 5"bs. Which would you prefer, 295's,275's or 255's. Here's a pic of the 255's

Thanks, it really pops in the Sun light. Its a 2 stage, Chrysler Deep Cherry Red. You see it mostly on the Dodge trucks and Wranglers.