prayers1

Any updates?

Your definitely a skilled craftsman. Very nice!

The underside of the hood, how big of an opening?

Didn't think about the bondo weight. What are you thinking in terms of hood hinges?

How much more hood clearance will you be getting?

To me it looks like the raised pointed center of the hood is missing. Is It? I gotta say it looks real cool right now, kept it going and post more progress pics. THANKS!

Nobody wears white T-Shirts, you would sell more if they were black.

Is this what your talking about. https://www.karmustang.com/product.php?productid=7835

Barnett- Not a concours points judged car, but like the look of phosphate. I thought maybe someone sold them in that color. I'll go ahead with your suggestion paint them after the new ones come in. Question, If I paint the new black springs, won't the black show after the spring is opened. Any suggestions, I know there is a lot of tension on those springs? What is a good durable paint that won't flake off after the hinges are opened time and time again?

Looking to take advantage of the Labor Day sales and would like to buy a set of hood hinges. I like when I see them in a phosphate color but all venders are selling them in Black, so what is the correct color? Could it be that the hinge is black and the springs are phosphate?

I really dig that hood. I want one! Depending on what head and intake I get, it had to be dictated by the hood height or shaker scoop, so I've been thinking how to combine a 67 GT hood on a 69 and do away with the shaker, but I think you nailed a sweet combination. Can you make another with that mold?

Thanks Mach1 Driver for that insight. It may be cheaper to have someone just weld it. I'm thinking, how often will I be using a welder?

This is good feedback on a Cleveland stroker fitment. What brand headers are you using. Are you using the Ford stock pump or the Borgensen pump? What size PWB Boosetr are you using. Thanks for the feedback!!!!!!!

If I bought this welder, would it do the job? MIG Welder 110VAC/ 135A Output Item #12011 Brand: Eastwood Or does it need to be stick welded?

Sorry if it seems I'm riding the edge on this one. I'm just having a hard time convincing myself to do the complete shock tower reinforcement, it's just so involved. I know the benefits of the completed project but I keep telling myself that in my case its more of an overkill. IMO, the reinforcement is for repairing cracked shock towers and if mine are good w/ the addition of the Monte Carlo Bar & Export Brace I shouldn't have any flex. Sometimes I think we over kill these projects installing things not needed. Plus with a Cleveland, there isn't much room between the shock tower and exhaust. I don't have tiny hands, so pulling plugs & putting spark plug wires on was always a Pain. Sorry for taking you guys down this road, but this is why I asked for feedback, it's just one of those decisions I'm struggling with besides upgrading PS / PB's and a new motor build............... Yeah Mach1 Driver, after watching the same video it dawned on my what TA meant.

Rsanter- To answer a few questions, I already had been using the Monte Carlo Bar and Export Brace. That is why I question if it is necessary to weld all of the pieces that come with the kit. I have good shock towers and no cracks plus I will be installing the Tin Man Sub frame connector at a later time. Installing the reinforcement kit would be just an insurance measure. I know of a guy who has a similar build with the Tim Man SFC, he has no shock tower reinforcement and hasn't developed any cracks. I know of another guy who has a Cougar with more torque in his motor, he races all the time w/o shock tower reinforcements but uses Tin Man SFC. The car will see some street racing, I never back down from a race and mostly cruising and car shows Header is close because the motor is shifted more to that one side, I'll be getting Ron Morris Motor Mounts. What is a TA brace? I don't know what stitch welding? Here's a nice little video about the BOSS 302 Chassis Mod done by West Coast Classic Cougar

Understood! Thanks all for your opinions and help!!

Larry, that is a scratch in the paint. I figured if I have to take the car somewhere to get the Shock Tower work done, then I might as well get the Sub Frame Connectors done too. The guy I trust and use to work on my car can't get to it until next year. We both agreed on a mobile welder that we both know who came come to my house to do the Shock Tower work and Yes I can do the SFC at a later date. I vaguely understood the work needed to do the Shock Tower reinforcements, now I see that the coil spring needs to be out and the UCA needs to be detached from the spindle to do the outside brace. FYI- I live in a very rural area, not many shops want to do this work or have the time for it. They rather do insurance repair jobs. So I was thinking, If I can get a guy to come to my house to weld up the braces, do I have to use all of the braces that come with the kit. In other words, are some braces more important to have than others. This will cut down on the welders time and expense. Besides I will still be using the Monte Carlo bar & the Export Brace. I just read on the internet that Ford original had only one brace on the outside of the shock tower and the reinforcement is only used to stop the twist and flex of unsupportedshock towers. In my case mine are supported. What do you think?

Here's a picture of both shock towers, the right one shows 2 arrows of my concern. The center arrow is where the header hits, the second is my fault, but I always nick it with the ratchet when checking plugs. I don't see any reinforcement on them??? Would the reinforcements be in the way of the header problem or is this a situation that I have to dent in that area for header clearance.

I understand all of you. So many things to do, rebuild motor, upgrade PS & PB's, now shock towers and possible subframe connectors which all are costly.... If it wasn't for a bad valve seat I wouldn't think of doing it, but once the drivetrain is out one starts think now is the time to do it. This is the reason I am so slow to act, just trying to weigh out what really has to be done vs. doing the ultimate build. I'd rather drive the car and have fun! Now whats the best subframe connector???

I agree RPM, latoracing does some excellent work! I do have the motor and trans out, I could find a welder that has a portable unit to do some welds. I think the consensus here is 50/50?

Curious, what gears in the rear and stall do you have?

Dave, I've attached installation instructions below that might be of some help. This is what was pasted onto me from the guy who rebuilt mine. IIRC, I had a hard time installing the TC to the flexplate, I had to round out the holes in the flexplate for the TC to fit, but once it was installed I couldn't move it back as one would expect. When I pulled my motor and tranny out last week I loosen the TC nuts and tried to push the TC back to get it off the flexplate, still it wouldn't bunge but would rock side to side in the flexplate bolt holes. I eventually had to loosen the tranny bolts and pry a little to get it to loosen up then it slid off. During the time the motor and tranny where running I didn't experience any problems. The important part the tranny guy stressed was to make sure I heard the 3 clunks of the TC siding onto the input shaft of the trans. I had to do it a couple of times because I didn't hear 3 clunks, but found I was right even w/o hearing the clunks. I know your past this point but I hope you can find some info in the instruction sheet to help with whatever. TRANSMISSION RR GUIDE rev2.doc

If I really don't need to, then I won't. I don't have a welder and I'd have to tow the car somewhere to get it installed. I do realize the importance of it, but I'm not road racing, steering into hard corners etc... So you think I can get away with it or its so important to do.

My car came as a factory 351W, 3 speed stick. To clear things up, the part that hits the header is not the round corners of the shock tower but the center section of it, can't recall the name of that part. The car will not be an all out racer, but on occasion some good burn outs and street racing.