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Everything posted by prayers1

  1. Installed the new 3rd member and I really don’t feel much difference on take off from the 4:11s. It isn’t as sluggish as I thought but I still haven’t put it to its true test by doing a hard pull out because I have to drive 500 miles to break it in. on the highway I am down about 500 rpms. Sorry forgot to write down (mph at what rpm). The car surly drives smoother but that also must account for the QA1 rear single adjustable shocks. Not as much hovering in the rear. I still have a slight drone noise. I’m gonna replace the flowmasters & 2 1/4” exhaust with 2 1/2” with Borla mufflers and cut outs.
  2. Unfortunately I couldn’t use the 2014 seat frame, that’s means no power seats. I took 1” square stock and grade 8 bolts and bolted it to the 69 track that was then bolted to the 2014 seat frame. I had to put 5 washers between the square stock and seat track so that the seat adjustment could move freely. The only problem I faced is that I couldn’t get the seat to glide fully back because it would hit the seat retractor. I could cut a slot in the sill and install another anchor plate 4” back to allow full use of the seat OR use a 90degree bracket used for seat belts and install it on the floor board, but over the rear torque box. I would anchor a grade 8 bolt with a large round washer supplied by the seatbelt company or use an anchor late. Since I don’t ever have any passengers, the second option is what I’m gonna use.
  3. RPM- Don’t recall what it looks like, but I assume the mounting nut is welded?
  4. That part is for an extension of the ridged sleeve, that is right of the drivers seat. My problem is with the seat belt retractor
  5. Went with Mach1drivers suggestion, helical gears. I went with the 3:50s
  6. Here’s picture showing the seat hitting the seatbelt retractor. I had measured and fitted things w/o the plastic side cover. The cover is making most of the contact and I can’t take it off, because you would see all the seat mechanisms
  7. The 2014 seats I’m installing will not go full back because of the seatbelt retractor. I’ve tried many ways to install these seats, but still the retractor is in the way. I never have back seat passengers and I have the fond down seat. Do i mount to the back seatbelt bolt OR install a crossbrace OR put 2 holes in the floor behind the front seat?? Thanks to all!!!
  8. det0326, I found the thread with the barrel spacers. There was a lot of feedback about the tensile strength vs. sheer strength. After reading that I decided to by 1” square tubing. I’m gonna bolt the tubing and seat tracks at one time on the base of the seat using 2 grade 8, 5/16 x 2 1/2” bolts, lock washers and nuts. On the original seat tracks there are a few rivets that one shouldn’t grind down, so I’m gonna put a couple 5/16s washers in between the track and tubing on the 2 1/2” bolts, I’ll take some pictures once I get things going.
  9. I can’t seem to rest, always thinking a better way. How about if I use 3/4” square stock bolting that to the seat the same direction as the seat frame, then bolt the tracks on top of the square stock. This should allow me to use the plastic cover and fill in the gap on the other side. What do you say???
  10. I’ve bolted the drivers side with the 69 seat track and placed the seat in the car. I found the driver’s side to be about an1 1/2” too tall. I found that the plastic cover, which is only on the left of the seat is the problem, so I took it off and replaced the seat. Now the backseat tilt controls rub on the carpet and it’s about 3/4” too short on the other side as well. I’m 6’ and I feel I’m too low in these seats, plus I hand about 6” of head clearance. I’m thinking off putting on the power seat motor frame. The only problem with that is the frame width is 15”, I need 14” and the length of the track is 18”, I need 12”. I was thinking of drilling new holes to fit the 15”x18”. Or running flat stock on the width and drilling holes to accept the bolts that go through the floor. What do you guys think??
  11. Need some advise here! I took the motor frame off. For now I’m just gonna mount the 2014 seat on the 69 tracks. I’m not sure where to mount them, dead center, closer to the front or further back. One issue is the 69 lever for forwards and backwards. It hits the cushion unless I mount the tracks closer to the front. Maybe someone here has some experience with this. Here’s some pics to see what I’m doing.
  12. It looks like I’ll have to take the seat off the track and bolt on the originals to that, thus keeping the motors off. I was hoping to be able to use them but height requirements prevent it
  13. Well the seats came in today. it’s gonna be quit a challenge to get them bolted up. The stock seats are 14” wide on center and the new seats are 15 1/2” on center. The length of the stock track is 11”, the new ones are 18”. im gonna have to be real creative. Does anyone have experience with this or an ideal of what to do? Thanks!!
  14. Contacted PTC , who built my converter and was told stall is 3000-3500. All along I always thought it was 2800. Well he said 3:55 would be ok.
  15. Ok. Thank you for explaining that. I really appreciate it!
  16. Once I start a project, it seems I do 3 Different ones at a time. So, I picked up these seats Like to get some feedback from others that might have done the same. Im also gonna leather cover the dash and center console. ie… wire hook up, seat track install, rear seats installed. Thanks!!!
  17. I was also concerned about any I’ll effect on the Transmission, torque converter vs Cam and rear gear ratio. The trans has been well built to hold 500hp. The Cam is specs are: 6O2/574, 235/241 @50, love sep 112. The Cam was built around the TC and 4:11s What do you guys still think? Drove yesterday, tach must be off 100-200 rpms 60 mph @ 2200 rpms
  18. Thank you aslanefe!! I kinda lean towards the 3:50 with those calculations. These days, racing just isn’t as fun as it use to be. Now a days you really need to lean into it racing these modern cars and the crowd of cars everywhere’s isn’t worth the liability. im thinking it’s more fun to cruise and better drivability on long highway runs. my only concern is if the trans and Transmission and torque converter (stall 2800) can handle the 3:50’s. Also, I’m gonna get a 3rd member built with whatever gear I decide to pick, this way I still keep the 4:11s to switch if needed. So… should I build it with a Posi or open rear?
  19. Just got back from a ride. 60 mph @ 2400 rpms
  20. I’ve been recently remarried. Your right bitter sweet. Not a fan living alone. I’ll take the car out today and see exactly where I’m at at 60 mph
  21. Thanks for warm welcome. Losing a wife of 33 years brought me down some horrible roads, but through it all I held onto the Mustang. Took it out a few times last Summer. I would love to go on cruises but the 4:11’s are killing me and makes for an uncomfortable ride. I understand the exhaust drone, but at a lower rpm I can tolerate it. So, are you guys thinking more towards the 3:50s vs. 3:73. I don’t think 3:73 is too far from 4:11s Thanks again!
  22. Been a long hiatus, hello old friends! Need help deciding rear gear ratio. Have a 69 with a 408 Cleveland (525hp) an AOD transmission, 10” converter, 2800 stahl. 9” rear with 4:11. Can’t drive far (1 hr) because the motor is revving so high and tons of drone noises. IIRC, 60 mph @ 2800 -3000 rpms. Tire-295/50/15 26.6 dia. Like to be cruising 2500 @ 65 mph. Thinking 3:50 gears or 3:75. Thank you for helping!
  23. Yes I still have them. Where are you located?
  24. Are you looking for a new set? I have a set of original Mach 1 seats that are in excellent shape. I’m 6’ and I have about 4 “ head clearance. I’m in Branson Missouri. I’m looking for a more modern version I’m going to be doing the pro touring look. What do you want for yours?
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