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stangs-R-me

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  1. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Rich Ackermann in My new 1970 M-Code Mach 1 Project   
    I like the black carpet, dash, console, and rear fold down. I think those parts in black contrast nicely against the red seats.
    Thanks
  2. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Rich Ackermann in My new 1970 M-Code Mach 1 Project   
    1970 Mach 1 Walk Around With Start & Lights Small Size.mp4
  3. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Rich Ackermann in My new 1970 M-Code Mach 1 Project   
    A Project progress update....
    Well, it's been more than 3 years since I bought the 1970 Calypso Coral Mach 1 M code with Vermillion Red interior and it's almost done. The Cleveland was stroked to 408ci with a Tremec 5spd, Eaton TrueTrac with 3.70 gears. Four-wheel disc brakes with Global West Front Suspension. Holley Sniper EFI and Holley Hyperspark Ignition. Lots of other mods.. Still needs the interior door panels and windshield installed.  I can't wait to drive it, but I still need to bleed the brakes again, Bleed the Hydraulic Clutch, take it in for a wheel alignment, and some exhaust pipe work. Then I can get it inspected and drive it. I'll post a walk-around video next.... hope you like it.
    Still needs door panels and windshield and molding...


    Here is the switch for the power windows and the toggle switch for the remote power side view mirrors. I mounted them in the center console where they are accessible to both the drive and passenger to avoid putting holes for them in the door panels.

    The fold down rear seat with a pair of Kicker 8" sub woofers mounted in the trap door panel.

    I was able to install a 17" x 9" rim with a Nitto 45 x 245 size tire in the trunk even with a fold down rear seat trap door panel. This spare wheel matches my front wheels and is a bit smaller than my rear wheels. I did it by relocating the hold down loop. First I sweeeezzzed the wheel in to the trunk where I wanted it, and then I placed the hold down bar thru the dust cap hole in the spare and marked where to weld the hold down loop to the trunk floor. The space is so tight, that I have to release the latch on the trap door when putting the wheel in, or taking it out, but once the wheel is completely in or out I can latch trap door again. Here is a pic of it....

    Below is a walk-around video.... 
  4. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to BuckeyeDemon in 69 mach 408w build   
  5. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Mike65 in Moving out of NJ soon.   
    Thanks for the good wishes everyone. We made it safely & we are enjoying our new to us home. Pics to follow in a couple days.
  6. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Midlife in Replacement Gages   
    Yeah, us Engineers are also closet secretaries, which the Mustang was originally designed to be attracted to...
    Now then, if you're on the Concours Mustang site at all, you'd be amazed at the intensity of discussions about very esoteric part finishes.  The latest one revolves around the distributor hold-down clamp "rivet" at the bottom of the clamp and what its finish was supposed to be.  Now THAT'S geekdom!
  7. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to paulb in Paul's 69 Mach1   
    Air box finished, came out pretty good


  8. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Mike65 in Moving out of NJ soon.   
    OK everyone I will be absent for about 1 week. Cable & internet are getting turned off tomorrow & we will not be back up until next Sunday. I temp installed the f/e sheet metal on the Coupe for the ride to Virginia. I had to roll it out of the garage to get some of our stuff out of the attic so I snapped a couple pics.

     

  9. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to 69RavenConv in Replacement Gages   
    Back in college, I remember the machines that punched the cards collected all the little punch-outs in a waste basket inside the cabinet. We called them "beta particles". If you dumped a bunch of beta particles in somebody's car, there wasn't a vacuum cleaner made that could get them all out. Or so I've heard.
  10. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to aslanefe in 69 70 rear quarter glass nylon rollers   
    Are you talking about the rollers that are installed with swaged stand off to the glass frame and slide inside the 3 rails? If so, I could not find any reproductions. I had a couple which had the springed edges broken. So I 3D printed a couple from ABS, ground the swaged part of the stand off, drilled a hole through the stand off and tapped it. Installed the 3D printed roller using the modified stand off and a bolt. Have been using them for a few years now and still working (but the rear windows do not get rolled up and down a lot).
  11. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Kris in 69 70 rear quarter glass nylon rollers   
    I built some of of uhmw plastic. I found 2 holes saws that were the correct size and built them. One for the base and one for the side that goes in the track. I drilled part way from both directions the correct depth of the original. Then I counter suck a hole in it to and put a stainless 1/4” bolt in with a lock nut. It looks large in the picture but is the same outer diameter as the factory, just round. It travels good in the track with no issues that I’ve noticed. 



  12. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to fvike in Crashed my Fastback - The rebuild thread   
    What the F... Progress??
    First time powering up the AAW harness. Got head lights, tail lights, horn, heater fan, radio, interior lights and voltmeter working. Hazards only work with parking lights, so there is some gremlins yet. I have a lot of grounds to go over.  But it's huge for me to finally be able to power up stuff. It's been over a year since the last update, and I have been doing stuff, but I never did feel it was enough to make a post about. Still there is work to be done on the harness, but a big step was made today.


     
  13. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to staffy in 69 Restomod (UK)   
    Well I’m pleased to say that the car came back to me 2 weeks ago from the paint shop.
    I’m so pleased with it, the paint finish from the shop is just sublime.
     Now for the hard work of putting it call back together.
    Chris 







  14. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Mike65 in Moving out of NJ soon.   
    Two weeks ago we put our home in NJ up for sale, & today we got an offer on it for what we were asking for it. Our house in Southern Virginia that we have been renovating for the last year, short of a few ceiling fans & a couple light fixtures is ready to move into. So in about one month we will be moving out of NJ to southern Virginia just west of Martinsville in a small town called Horsepasture. The house is 1350 sq ft ranch with a full basement & a 1 car carport on 1 acre of land & has room for a 2 car garage.

  15. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to pw520a in finally on the road!   
    After buying the car in pieces some 11 or twelve years ago, I cant tell you how good it feel do drive this thing down the road chirping tires through the gears!




  16. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from pw520a in how to wire the electric choke   
    All these years, I guess I've just missed when wire 904 was mentioned as a switched 12 volt source under the hood !!
    Thanks,
    Doug 
  17. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from pw520a in how to wire the electric choke   
    I had been running a Holley 600 CFM Double Pumper with a Holley 37-485 Electric Choke kit since  2012 and had it hooked up to the Stator terminal as Ford always did in the 70's & 80's..   Choke always opened fully in what seemed to be a normal amount of time.
    Replaced the Holley earlier this year with a Summit M08600VS 600 CFM Vac Secondary with Electric Choke and again hooked it up to the Stator terminal.   It also opens fully with no issues.
    Both the Holley Choke Kit and the Summit Carb state you MUST use a 12V source and I was going to wire in 12V if the Summit carb really needed it.   The Summit carb is actually made by Holley and the choke caps looked identical and the flat coil spring inside of both caps was the same thickness too.    
    I like the relay idea shared by BlueCoupe, that would eliminate the need to run a wire inside the car to get 12V switched power as there is no source under the hood of a stock '69 Mustang.
    Doug
  18. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from RPM in Lower Clutch Rod.... Does this look right to you???   
    My pedal was also not returning fully to the stop bumper every time in the late 00's  
    So I finally went though it all back in 2011 and found that one of the two pot-metal bushings in the the clutch & brake pedal support that pedal rod pivots on was split.   I had completely rebuilt the pedal support with all new parts including a new clutch pedal shaft less than 30k miles prior and it had failed again.
    So, I installed a Mustang Steve Ball Bearing Retrofit Kit to replace the poorly designed factory pot metal bushing / plastic insert set up and the problem is now gone forever.
    There are other kits out there with roller bearings that ride directly on the clutch pedal shaft (Scott Drake's kit is one), but you want to avoid this style kit if you are not going to replace the shaft at the same time.   My new shaft with less than 30k miles already had a wear groove starting to form in it, which could cause the roller bearing to prematurely fail.   
    For the Ball Bearings, I just needed to polish it / knock the high spot down to work with Steve's Kit as these bearings have an inner race that rides on the shaft.        
    Doug  
  19. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to RPM in My 1970 Mustang   
    Easiest and cheapest fix is to rebuild or replace the 2v. Otherwise down the rabbit hole you go. I try to remember to do the easiest fix first. Doesn't always happen. 
  20. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from JayEstes in Radiator drain solution?   
    This style petcock that I've got on my radiator allows you to slip a piece of hose over it ... if you can find this style somewhere.
     
     

  21. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Vicfreg in 69 SuperCoupe   
    Wow. Prayers for a complete and rapid recovery!!  
  22. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to Caseyrhe in U joint cap clips, help needed   
    Success!!
    Heated the c clip with a little heat and pried end out, grabbed with needle nose pliers and bam!!
     






  23. Like
    stangs-R-me got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in 1969 Mustang Summit M2008 Series Carburetor Install ...   
    Guess I should post an UPDATE since I've been driving it since the end of April !!
    As I stated in my Jan 5th post, I pressure tested my custom fuel inlet line in a bucket of water with compressed air and had no leaks.   Well, I ended up having a fuel leak between my custom tube and the brass primary fuel bowl inlet fitting.   Tightening it did not help, so I removed the tube assy. and put on temporary hose barbs / tee and cobbled it together with hose & clamps.   My flare on the tube was good at the leak point, however the cone in the brass adapter was distorted / damaged so I ordered a 2-pc set of them from Summit (surprised it actually sealed up to the temporary brass hose barb adapter).   There was the Summit brand, Holley, & Demon to chose from and I went with the Demon 142117 2-pc. set as it came with the washers & screens and was the best value (all 3 are likely made by the same mfr.).   Replaced it and reinstalled my tube assembly and the leak was gone.
    I had read that you really should use a 4-hole carb spacer on a dual plane intake so I also ordered up a Canton 85-154 4-hole 1/4" thick phenolic spacer and a MR G # 55 4-hole gasket for between the carb & spacer to replace the thick open center gasket supplied with the Summit carb.   Since my Offy 360 dual plane is not a 4-hole style, I used an open center gasket between the spacer & intake.   With my custom Ram-Air set up, I can't have any thicker spacer than this.
    I had also ordered up the MR G # 97 1/4" thick heat dissipator set (2 aluminum plates & 3 # 55 gaskets) and tried this first but it did not dissipate the heat enough in that I could hear fuel gurgling when I shut the engine off when hot.   Funny, the Holley never did this and all I used under it for 30+ years was a single MR G # 55 gasket !!
    The electric choke hooked up to the alternator stator terminal (instead of 12V as stated in the Summit instructions) also seems to be acceptable as the choke fully opens like it should and when it should. 
    I also installed a Holley 20-59 Quick Change Cover Kit on the Vac-Secondary spring chamber.   The secondaries did not seem to be opening, so I swapped out the stock 0.033" wire spring for a 0.029" and they now seem to be opening at the right time.
    I also followed the instructions from this video prior to installation:
     
    I did need to turn the curb idle speed screw in a bit to get it to idle at 700-750 RPM and the sweet spot on the idle mixture screws is at 2 full turns out.   
    My vacuum is a little low at idle (only 11-12"), and I'm tempted to swap the Holley back on to see where it was at before. 
    It starts & idles nicely and runs & drives great, so I'm not too concerned at the moment.
    Doug
              
                 
  24. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to paulb in Paul's 69 Mach1   
    Bit of an update, side windows in, central locking in, head unit in, almost finished wiring.







  25. Like
    stangs-R-me reacted to MorganLeBlanc in Morgans 69 Mustang   
    Still sorting out my Mach1 but finally took a few test drives after working on it for well over a year.



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