stangs-R-me

I ordered 1 each of the '65-66 & '67-68 22 Gallon Tank conversion necks from CJP yesterday and should have next Thursday. Hopefully they are both PLATED (as shown in the CJP video) and the insert goes up and past the bend without extra effort. Doug

Part of this GT500 recall / modification is that you need to change of the "vented" type gas cap for a "non-vented" one. GT500's had the "vent-dent" in the neck just like all other '69-70 Mustangs (instructions even state to flatten the dent out), so theoretically it should have already came with a non-vented cap. With the "vent-dent" in the neck, the O.E.M. standard '69-70 Screw-On Mustang gas caps were all non-vented as are the repro's. Mach 1 & GT POP-OPEN caps were all non-vented as would be the repro versions if you install the now "show-car only" plunger assembly instead of using the screw on cap they also supply with the kit. I have a Scott Drake repro GT pop-open on my car and I assumed the screw-on cap supplied was non-vented, but it is NOT so the search was on for a non-vented version. I would assume '67-70 Cougars had the vent dent neck too, so I went on WCCC site and found pics of used necks ... '67-68 does not appear to have the vent dent, but the 1969 and 1970 ones did. So you would think there would be vented caps for '67-68 & non-vented for '69-70, but instead WCCC (and Stant) just list the same vented / anti-surge one for all '67-70. Which I suppose vent dent or not a vented cap will work ... just don't try and use a non-vented cap without a vent dent filler neck. Searching e-bay and Stant's site, I was not having much luck finding a non-vented cap that would fit. The common "non-vented" one that does have some Ford applications including 1970 Cougar with CA Emissions (Stant 10632) is a smaller diameter, so it will not work. The '71-73 Cougar cap (Stant 10810, actually for '71-82 Cougar as well as other Fords) is considered an "emissions cap" and has some sort of valve in it. This cap fits, and the "valve" allows air in but not out (makes sense as these cars have a charcoal canister to trap fumes), so it is suitable for this non-vented application since the vent tube will do all the breathing. The cap that came with my Scott Drake repro pop-open is on the left. As you can see, it is different than the Stant vented cap so obviously made by a different mfr. Also has no stamping on front stating it is "vented" like the Stant cap even though it has a similar spring loaded valve in the center that definitely vents.

Now that I've got samples of all years in hand, I went and borrowed the new pump nozzle again from the gas station to test insert location on all these other necks. Also was able to try the nozzle with the neck installed on my car ... something I could not do last time as I only had the nozzle for a few hours. When I last had the nozzle I was test fitting with it parallel with the bend in the neck ... but with a POP-OPEN style CAP, nozzle needs to be off to one side or the other. Something I certainly never thought of until now, but thankfully the insert location allows this. Also tested nozzle in the 65-66 & 67-68 necks offset like this and it should not be an issue on these with pop-open caps either.

Got the '67-68 and 1970 Scott Drake necks in an the '67-68 is PLATED and made by the same company as the 65-66 & 1969 PLATED necks however disappointingly the 1970 is PAINTED even though the SD site states it is plated ... http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Product/D0ZZ-9034-A.aspx?wid=141 This 1970 neck is the first one I've seen made by CORVEX ... paint job almost looks brushed on. This was the most $$ spent on a neck so far and also the shoddiest workmanship. It is also more oval shaped in the bend so insert was going to require some extra massaging to get past the bend like the 67-68 Goodmark painted neck. Painted one I bought from CJP a while back was cheaper, insert slipped past bend, and was far nicer / on par with the other painted necks. A premium price for the Scott Drake name and this piece of junk will be sent back. Did a little more digging on CORVEX and this series of filler neck P/N's (T01A,B,C,D) are associated with DII ... aka Dynacorn. The PLATED '67-68 neck is a nice piece and also has no issue with getting insert up and around bend (unlike the Goodmark painted version).

My DD is a 2016 base model Ecoboost with 6-speed manual, got 37k miles on it already and is one of the best daily driver's I've ever had. That being a Premium GT and a ragtop to boot, all that much better ... you are going to love that car !! I agree it would be better with a manual, but I could live with an A/T if it were the only option too. Doug

Worst storm / most snow of the '17-18 season came to our city in North-East Wisconsin on Sunday ... 12" was what the neighbor measured. North and West of us got even more. Four of us were planning on going down to Madison on Sunday for a concert, meeting up with two others coming up from Dubuque, IA. This included 3 non-cancelable $130 rooms for Sunday night. The Dubuque couple ended up finding 4 others to go with them so not a total waste and they all had a great time. Band we were going to see was Houndsmouth and none of the 6 from Dubuque had ever heard of them but were all fans come the end of the night ... guess they put on a great show. Just don't expect weather this time of year to screw up plans like this in the mid-west. April snow fall to date broke an early 1900's record in Green Bay, WI. I've got my driver's seat out giving it a complete overhaul, so in a way I'm happy weather is another reason keeping it in the garage. Late 80's vintage replacement Mach 1 upholstery (real Comfortweave) is in near perfect shape, but original foam & burlap has been crumbling for many years. Ordered up foam, spring sets, burlap, felt to replace jute edging, etc. ... still waiting on CJP to ship the seat back spring sets though; they are running over a week late from Dynacorn. Doug

Beat me to it too !!

Got inserts staked and JB Welded in the painted '65-66 and '67-68 necks over the weekend and I'm happy to report that the "4 inch syringe extension" worked great with the JB Weld. Also brought an insert with me to work this morning to see if it could be crimped down further to fit up the Scott Drake Plated '65-66 neck that uses 2-1/8" O.D. tubing instead of 2-1/4". Crimped it down as far as the die set I used before would go and this was not far enough. Grabbed the next smaller die set and continued to crimp it down until it finally would slide up the neck. Final crimp dia. ended up being 1.980" (vs. 2.093" that works for the 2-1/4" O.D. necks). Supposedly this Scott Drake neck is a very close reproduction to the O.E. neck, so I'd guess (hope) that this diameter would be good for an O.E. '64.5 to 66 neck too. I plan on ordering '67-68 and 1970 Scott Drake necks as well as the '65-66 & '67-68 22 Gal tank conversion necks this week to verify these are all really plated and that there are no fitment issues of the insert. Anyone that bought an insert kit that would like a COMPLETE NECK with INSERT instead let me know. Once insert kit is received back, I will give you a full $29.00 CREDIT towards the purchase of a complete neck. Thanks, Doug

Thanks for the kind words, I'm real pleased with the results. The in the trunk tube is the pre-bent line from CJP / Classic Tube mentioned in the first post. The outside inverted flare tube I got from Autozone ... part # PA-540, guessing PA stands for "Poly Armor" which is the outer bronze coating 5 = 5/16" and 40 is 40". Never seen tubing like this before and I even asked if they had regular galvanized tubing and the counter guy said no, but maybe it could be special ordered. I don't normally shop there, but was running late and my regular store (Carquest, know the owner real well) had already closed. Doug

I've had a couple of local Mustang owners asking for complete necks with inserts installed, so that was also why I was researching necks and what is available. Ideally I'd prefer to offer these as Galvanized or Zinc Plated only, but with all the various mfr's. and re-sellers of these things, it might be hard to actually go this route unless I were to strip and re-plate painted necks myself. The Goodmark Necks were supposedly Galvanized, but both the '67-68 and '69 Goodmark neck from same supplier were Painted ... my guess is Goodmark is just a reseller and switched mfr's. So far the CJP FFP3 and the S-D C9ZZ-9034-A are zinc plated (CF028C '69 neck from same mfr.), as is the '65-66 S-D neck in the prior post (CF028A, again same mfr.), and the '67-68 S-D neck in the post below (FF028B). The 22 Gallon conversion necks (1970 Tank in 65-66 or 67-68) ... CJP FFP11 and FFP12 are zinc plated. For some reason these conversion necks are made out of a heavier gauge tubing than the other necks so they require the insert to be crimped down a bit further to slip up the neck. And as stated 2 posts down, inserts for the Scott Drake '65-66 neck and likely O.E. '65-66 necks need the insert crimped down even further as the tubing used for this neck is 2-1/8" O.D. instead of 2-1/4". Complete Necks with Insert Installed Pricing: '65-66 Painted ... $90.00 + shipping '65-66 Plated ... $98.00 + shipping '65-66 w/ 1970 22 Gal Tank Plated ... $119.00 + shipping '67-68 Painted ... $97.00 + shipping '67-68 Plated ... $94.00 + shipping '67-68 w/ 22 Gal Tank Plated ... $119.00 + shipping 1969 Painted ... $93.00 + shipping 1969 Plated ... $89.00 + shipping 1970 Painted ... $95.00 + shipping 1970 Plated ... $**.** + shipping (need to find a plated version to sell) USPS Shipping Lower 48 States ... 1 Neck Assembly … $11.00 USPS Shipping Lower 48 States … 2 '65-66 Neck or 2 or 3 '67-68 Neck Assemblies … $14.00 ** OR ** 2-1/4" OD x 0.049" Wall Tubing Insert Kit for your installation ... $25.00 NET + shipping 2-1/4" OD x 0.065" Wall Tubing Insert Kit for your installation … $27.00 NET + shipping 2-1/8" OD x 0.049" Wall Tubing Insert Kit for your Installation ... $30.00 NET + shipping ('65-66 only) Please state what year and neck type so I can send you the correctly crimped insert USPS Shipping Lower 48 States ... $5.00 for 1-2 Kits or $8.00 for 3-4 kits NOTE that paint gets disturbed on painted necks where insert is staked in place. I will touch up these areas with silver paint on the outside to prevent corrosion, however color / brightness of my touch up does not match mfr. applied paint (of the 4 painted necks I've bought so far, there are at least 2 different silvers used). However, with the bracing in the trunk on either side of the neck view of the stake mark locations are not something anyone will notice unless they are looking for it. For plated necks, the quality of the plating job can vary and since I'm not having them plated or re-plated myself what you receive will be as the mfr. supplied it to me. Send me a PM if interested. Doug

It has been a few weeks and all sold inserts have shipped ... 22 so far ... and I still have some to sell if anyone is interested. Anyway, I was researching classic Mustang filler necks and discovered that '65-66 necks are quite a bit longer than '69 & '70 and '67-68 falls somewhere in-between. I've only messed with '69-70 necks so far and I'm claiming this mod should work on all '65-70 Mustang & Cougar necks. So I ordered up two different '65-66 necks (1 each painted & zinc plated) and a painted '67-68 neck to see if I need to revise my instructions at all. Last night I successfully got the inserts staked in place in one of the '65-65 necks and the '67-68 neck. The plated '65-66 neck from Scott-Drake is supposed to be a very close copy to O.E. and uses 2-1/8" tubing (instead of 2-1/4") and is expanded out to 2-1/4" to meet up with the hose at the tank. For the insert to fit up this neck (and likely any O.E. '65-66 neck) it will need to be crimped down further to fit and I plan on playing with this on the crimper at work next week. The painted '67-68 neck had a slightly tighter & longer bend than the '69 & '70 necks and was more oval shaped in the bend. To get insert up and around the bend, I had to hammer the top and bottom flanges of the insert a bit to make it somewhat oval shaped and also put the neck in a vise (with soft jaws) to squeeze/flex the oval shape in order to get it to go around the bend. Do-able, but definitely trickier / more work than the '69 or '70 necks and is overall about an inch longer than the '69 neck. The painted '65-66 neck has two bends in it but they are more of a mandrel type (tube stayed more round) so the insert freely slid up past both. It is almost 3" longer than the '69 neck, so this added length and two bends made it even trickier when trying to hold the insert in place while putting the rear retaining stake marks in. Other issue with these longer necks is getting the JB Weld up to the back side of the insert. The Syringe I'm supplying is just long enough for the '69 Neck, so I had to either find a longer syringe (unlikely) or come up with a way to extend the tip. Bought some 1/4" & 5/16" I.D. poly tubing at Menards ... a 4" long piece of 1/4" is the extension and a 3/4" long piece of 5/16" as a coupler will work perfectly for the '65-66 and only adds $0.06 cost to the kit. For the '67-68 2" extension is ideal, and 1" would be helpful for a '69 neck though not necessary. Doug

After seeing that floor, I was going to say check the cowl ... that is great news that cowl is good. Doug

I've had 2 factory AC cars and the fiberglass nipple was broke off the bottom of both cases. Hose was still there sticking out the floor with the fiberglass nipple still inside. Yes a very poor design / location and not durable ... should have been some sort of guard there to avoid foot contact. The fiberglass also weakens over time, so they could possibly break on their own just from years of driving. When I fixed my case I added a brass tube insert in the nipple to add some support ... probably will not last, but fixed for now. The original case from my car was all busted up and missing pieces back when I got the car in 1981 ... probably from a butcher job heater core replacement sometime between 1969 & 1981. The case I currently have was in much better shape, but still needed other repairs / reinforcements besides the drain nipple when I restored it in 2011. It had been in storage from a car that I had been parted out in the late 80's. This case is finally being reproduced, so that is good news. Doug

A picture in the Mustang Recognition Guide from 1981 shows the lever pointing forward but slightly UP (I.E. like 10:00 & 2:00 positions). A lot of pictures in this book were from Ford archives, rather than current so a good chance this is correct. Doug

My custom exterior vent tube line is done that connects to the pre-bent Classic Tube GT500 Vent Line in the trunk. Parts: 1) 168-05-04 Brass 5/16" Hose Stem to 1/4" Male Pipe 1) 207S-04-04 Brass Bulkhead 1/4" FM Pipe Coupling 1) 402-05-04 Brass 5/16" Inverted Flare to 1/4" Male Pipe 90Deg EL 1) 40" Long piece of 5/16" Tubing with inverted Flare Ends (cut about 11" off and beaded the end for hose) 1) 1x1"x1/2" Corner Brace & Small Cushion Loop Clamp. A 1/4-20 bolt replaces the one gas tank bolt, along with a 1/4" USS Flat washer, thin jam nut & nylon insert lock nut on the corner brace. Added a 10-24 threaded insert to the one leg of the corner brace and a 10-24x5/8" Hex Bolt, washer & lockwasher holds the clamp to the corner brace. 3) 5/16" x 2.5" Long Fuel Line and 5 Spring type hose clamps (both ends of pre-bent classic tube line in trunk and the section that hangs down below the valiance). 1) 168-05-02 5/16" Hose Stem to 1/8" Male Pipe, custom 5/8" OD x 13/32" ID Washer & Gasket, and McMaster 5530K14 Teflon Insert 1/8" Pipe Locknut (at filler neck). With the passenger exhaust tip off, I had no problem getting this all in there.

Great car and great story ... welcome to the forum. Doug

How would that be simpler ?? With a funnel in the filler neck how is the pump nozzle going in the funnel so you don't get gas everywhere ?? In a pinch it might be a solution, but who would want to do this every time you got to the track and you want to fill your tank up with RACE GAS. Much easier if you could just slip the nozzle in the filler neck and through the insert like normal, set the lever for auto, and wait for the pump to shut off as if you were pumping unleaded in. Have you read through the other thread ... ... so you know what this modification is all about ?? Doug

I posted this in the main Filler Neck Mods thread, but thought maybe it should be it's own thread ... Was toying with an idea and let me know what you think. I've figured out how to expand the nozzle opening of these UNLEADED FILLER NECK INSERTS slightly so it will accept a 15/16" / LEADED gas nozzle. There were a bunch of gear heads in our shop back in the 70's and when unleaded gas came out, they all went nuts. First they were just punching out the whole unleaded insert and of course removing the CATS and usually adding dual exhaust as well. They got wiser later and just massaged the unleaded opening just enough so it looked stock, but would take the slightly larger nozzle. Two family cars (my '77 LTD Landau and my dad's '78 Country Squire) had full duals / no cats and the stealthy filler neck inserts that would accept the LEADED nozzle. Anyway, reminiscing about that era I wondered if this would be desired today. From what i understand, LEADED gas is still available at race tracks and airports. Anyone here actually use it from time to time where an insert that could accept the LEADED nozzle would be something you would want ?? I did two prototypes today ... carefully stretching the openings up from stock 0.906" to 0.953" ... see picture below. For the labor involved, would this option be worth an extra $10.00 ?? Let me know !! Doug

I crimped a batch of 20 inserts down today at work and they all came out good. Kind of wondered if maybe the crimper would ruin one every so often, but nope. Was toying with an idea and let me know what you think. I've figured out how to expand the nozzle opening slightly so it will accept a 15/16" / LEADED gas nozzle. There were a bunch of gear heads in our shop back in the 70's and when unleaded gas came out, they all went nuts. First they were just punching out the whole unleaded insert and of course removing the CATS and usually adding dual exhaust as well. They got wiser later and just massaged the unleaded opening just enough so it looked stock, but would take the slightly larger nozzle. From what i understand, LEADED gas is still available at race tracks and airports. Anyone here actually use it from time to time where an insert that could accept the LEADED nozzle would be something you would want ?? I did two prototypes today ... carefully stretching the openings up from stock 0.906" to 0.953" ... see picture below. For the labor involved, would this option be worth an extra $10.00 ?? Let me know !! Doug

Not liking how the GT500 vent ends up in the frame rail, I've been racking my brains on how to improve this part of the recall installation. I've scanned in both the '67 and '69 Fairlane fuel system diagrams and attached below. The one on the '67 exits the trunk floor drop-off towards the back on the passenger side just as I remember. On the '69 Fairlane diagram, it looks like it exits the trunk floor BEHIND the gas tank towards the center of the car. I'm thinking the reasoning behind this is the '67 Fairlane with dual exhaust had the tail pipes exiting behind the rear tires and in '69 on certain models they can also exit straight back like a Mustang. '67 vent tube location would have likely been too close to the passenger side tail pipe so in '69 they routed the tube inward and behind the gas tank. Really like the idea of getting this out from behind the left rear tire AND further away from the left tailpipe. So instead of just drilling a 9/16" hole through the drop off so the hose can pass through it per the GT500 recall, I'm going to put a 1/4" Female Pipe bulkhead there (207-04-04-STL, pdf below). A 1/4" pipe to 5/16" hose barb will then go on the trunk side with a short piece of hose connecting it to the vent tube. On the outside, I'm going to put a 90Deg male pipe to inverted flare fitting and run a second 5/16" tube run towards the back, 90 bend then over the exhaust tip behind the rear valance. It will then bend down 90Deg behind the gas tank with the tube ending near the bottom of the valence. I will install a tube clamp to support the end of this tube run close to the 90Deg bend and it will have some pitch to it as it goes towards the center so any fuel that ever gets this far can run out. Finally, a short piece of 5/16" hose will then be clamped to the end of the tube and drop down about 1" below the valance panel, which is still about 3/4-1" higher off the ground than the bottom of the tank itself so should be in a safe spot. I thought about just making the tube longer and letting it hang down, but a piece of hose is flexible (if were to somehow get bumped) and is more like how Ford did it on the Fairlane and likely for the same reason. Much better spot than in the frame rail, behind the left tire, or near the tailpipe !! Doug 1967 Fairlane Fuel Tank & Vent Line.pdf 1969 Fairlane Sedan Fuel System.pdf 207 Series Bulkhead.pdf

Just revised the installation instructions again (edited to Rev R2 in the 02/19 post) and made a 5th page that became the tool list with 5 more pictures. The JB Weld on the back turned out great with the syringe ... basically a horseshoe shaped epoxy wedge between the insert and neck tubing wall. Honestly don't think this thing can move / get knocked out of position now. But since you can't see / inspect the back side JB Weld, I've now also added 3 daubs of JB Weld to the FRONT SIDE which become the "tell-tale" spots to periodically inspect. If these 3 daubs are intact, then you know the insert has not moved or shifted within the neck. Doug

I put a Centerforce DF Clutch kit in my '69 back in 2011 and I've been real happy with it since. Here is the thread I started on the subject and there are many positive responses ... Getting a lightly used clutch assy. for the cost of shipping from another forum member certainly helped in my decision to try it out and I'm real glad I did !! Thanks again goes out to Tom (member 9350) for the clutch kit. Doug

Both the 1st Batch and a 2nd batch shipped out (32 total) to me today. I should then have them ready to ship next week Friday (3/23). I revised the installation instructions over the weekend too ... added more staking behind the insert AND figured out a simple way to inject JB WELD between the back sides of the insert and the tubing wall. End result should be close to strength of actual welding. Replaced the original PDF in the post above from 02/19, so take a look. Thanks for everyone's patience !! Anyone else WANT IN ... send me a PM ... as I now have extras to sell and new orders should ship 3/23 too. Doug

As I mentioned in the first post, I had a '67 Fairlane Hardtop and it's gas tank was vented in a similar manner. To me, it just seemed to be a way better way of venting the tank and I always wanted to design something similar for my Mustang. The Mustang gas tank is vented by a dent in top of the face of the filler neck ... this was likely cheaper than using a vented cap and definitely cheaper than having a vent tube. Back in the 80's when I used to drive this car all Summer, there were many times where I had the car parked out in the sun and the gas in the tank would expand and run out of the filler neck and down on the paint as well as all over the licence plate light. A sure way to have this happen was to fill up with gas and then park it. After having this happen a few times, I then would only fill the car up with gas when I knew I would be driving some miles afterwards or was going straight home and putting it in the garage. Even following this routine, I had it happen a couple of times so I obviously did not burn enough gas to get the level low enough to avoid the issue. The Fairlane filler neck was behind the license plate in the bumper and unlike the Mustang, there is no painted body surface or LP light below the fill neck. I had gas expand in this Fairlane a few times and since the gas cap was old and did not seal very well, gas would drip on the ground behind the licence plate rather than go up the vent tube. No paint to get damaged and the LP light is above the neck, so no real big deal. Finally found a NOS non-vented gas cap for the Fairlane and that fixed it. Ford did make an attempt to keep gas off of the Mustang LP Light Assy. by installing a $0.50 rubber flap over the light, but was this a real and effective solution ?? To me, a Mustang with its painted taillight & lower valiance panels as well as a light assembly located below the filler neck needs this feature more than the Fairlane did. And since Ford Engineers went through the effort to actually design a retro-fit vent tube kit for the '69 Shelby GT500 recall, you bet I want to install a similar set up on my lowly 351W GT Hardtop. Regular Mustangs obviously don't have the Shelby central exhaust exit directly below the gas cap that caused the issue and prompted the recall (interestingly only for GT500 even though GT350 shares the same set up). But are the issues stated above not good enough reasons ... if not safety reasons ... that make this a worthwhile mod for any '65-70 Mustang ?? The only classic Mustang application that would not benefit or need this mod is a closed loop EFI conversion with a vent canister. Doug

The pipe nut has a Teflon ring that seals against the threads as well as the surface. I will be adding either a small gasket or permatex between the outside washer & the neck upon final installation as well. Just nice to see the Teflon in the nut actually did make it leak free by itself.