stangs-R-me
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Posts posted by stangs-R-me
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I still have genuine Ford replacements I bought in 1982 from Circle City Mustang on my Hardtop doors ... paid $17.45 Each !! The short quarter glass ones were NLA at that time so I cleaned up my originals the best I could.
In 2005 I bought a full set of PUI from CJPP and replaced my outer quarter glass runs and put the inner door ones on a set of repro Dashes Direct deluxe door panels. The inner quarter felts are still very nice and did not want to try and deal with the staples anyway. The PUI repops are nice, but not a match to the OEM profile which is partially why I did not change out the outer door felts.
These 2005 vintage PUI outer door felts measure closer to 1/2" ~ 33/64".
Doug
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Looks like OE Ford Autolite batteries are again available as a reproduction ...
https://turbostart.com/product/s24f/
Pretty pricy for a driver but maybe not to those in the "concours" crowd.
Doug
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Wow all impressive results guys ... all of you beat me by a long shot as far as actual miles driven & usage.
Never had to replace a battery in any of the 5 Mustang daily drivers that I bought new since 1994. I kept them for 4-6 years and drove 100-130k miles.
Found a runner up in years, but again beat me as far as miles & usage:
A friend bought a 2003 Chevy S10 brand new and he replaced the factory Delco battery around 2018 so he got 15~16 years out of this one.
Doug
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Back in 2006 Checker Auto Parts was marketing "84 Month Autolite" brand car batteries.
Logo on the side of the case had a classic look to it, so I bought one for my '69 Mustang and one for my '67 Fairlane in early December 2006.
Sold the Fairlane in 2010, so I don't know how long that battery lasted but the one in my '69 was still cranking strong this summer. Not a ton of miles in the past 17 years but it has always been plugged into the same classic 1.75A Battery Tender year-round. Cleaned up terminals once a year and topped off with distilled water when needed.
Well, it was last driven sometime in September~October with no issues and this past weekend it was time to put it to bed for the winter and "no-crank". Cleaned up the terminals, and still no-go. Put it on my bigger charger and got it up to 80%, dropped it back in and it cranked but very slowly.
This battery finally gave up the ghost ... I don't think I've ever had a car battery last this long !!
I now work at a CarQuest auto parts store so a DieHard Gold replaced it. Never was a huge DieHard fan when it was part of Sears, but it is now just a name owned by Advanced Auto Parts (as is CarQuest) and the batteries are still made in the same factory as the former CarQuest brand batteries were.
Doug
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The fill plug is on the cast iron removable center section, not the stamped steel axle housing.
On the upper left (driver's) side of the center section ... IIRC.
YES, factory 302 2BBL cars came with the 8" differential.
Doug
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When I did my research in 2017 on the EPAS Kit that comes with a modded Ididit column for 1969, I thought there was a 1969 Boss 302 owner that bought and installed this kit. Pretty sure he had a stock steering wheel too.
Here is the EPAS kit on stang-aholics site ... even states it works with stock 1969 steering wheels ...
Here is the Ididit standard 1969 Tilt Column (non EPAS), it also states it specifically fits the 1969 steering wheel and uses a Ford T/S Switch ...
Doug
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Terry,
I would think the factory Tilt/Tilt-A-Way would be an awesome upgrade and worth $350 more than a new Ididit tilt column.
Especially if it is complete, ready to bolt-in and 100% functional. If it needs rebuilding/restoring and/or missing parts, maybe not.
Doug
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Way cool, great find !!
I see also that my modded bracket I did for the Vac-Sec Summit carb would not work on the DP Holley. Must have that narrower bracket on the RH side that the JAK Bracket has to clear the DP linkage.
Doug
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A 1" thick spacer is too high with my intake & ram-air set up.
Read my post from June 12, 2021 ... 1/4" thick spacer is the max I can use.
Thanks,
Doug
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53 minutes ago, Ridge Runner said:I used to have a couple of 68 69 cobra torinos ,the hood cut out is the same as the mustang
I figured it probably was, but had never seen one out in the wild other than that drawing back at that time. I think mine actually looks better in that all 4 holes are symmetrical !!
Doug
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Well, I decided to make a new PCV Tube that put it right behind the carb where it is supposed to be. Found a black plastic dual 3/8" tube support bracket in my misc. plastic parts box and that set me off in this new direction.
Could not find a 3/8" tube to 1/2" hose barb 90Deg elbow, so I just used an elbow to 1/4" male pipe instead. Drilled I.D. of pipe thread end to match I.D. of 3/8" tube and used some black RTV on the threads so the hose would seal on it ... no one but me knows there is NOT an actual hose barb there !!
Doug
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
Here is how I did mine back in the 80's before I'd ever seen dimensions ... or an actual Ford cut out on a '68-69 Mustang.
Got the idea from the 1969 Fairlane/Torino Hood and related parts drawing in my Mustang Illustrations Catalog ... pdf of this is also below.
Doug
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NPD shows the '70 System:
5210-29: use with turn downs
5210-27A: use with Mach 1 Tips
There is also the concours correct option, but you need to buy all the pieces separate.
Doug
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
We are getting a bit off track as far as the thread "subject" goes but ...
The only way factory dual exhaust came on '67-69 Mustangs & Shelbys was with the dual resonators and the transverse muffler. It was the same system dimensionally for all 3 years but there are two different systems:
2" for 289, 302, 351W & 390
2-1/4" for 428, Boss 302, & Boss 429
Interestingly, the small block H-Pipes are all 2-1/4" and will bolt right up to the 2-1/4" system which is what I have behind my 351W. Why the 390 Big Block got the small 2" system is a mystery.
In 1970, all Mustangs with dual exhaust went to the more common and simpler dual muffler set up in front of the axle and all were 2-1/4". If you have a '67-69 and want the more normal dual muffler set up, then you just order 1970 exhaust and obviously there is no issue with the center exit fuel sender wiring.
Doug
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As aslanfe stated above ...
All single exhaust cars had the fuel sender wire exit the trunk floor in the middle right by the sender.
All dual exhaust cars had the fuel sender wire exit in the passenger side drop off due to the transverse mounted muffler.
Info & pics of the dual exhaust version is here:
Dual Exhaust Fuel Sending Unit Extension Wire Harness - Dead Nuts On
My car was originally single exhaust, but I added the factory transverse muffler dual exhaust system to it back in the 80's when it was first reproduced.
Pics below show the issue and how I made it work ... back then, I just assumed this is what Ford did on the dual exhaust cars.
I did buy a new Alloy Metal Products taillight harness with the Convenience Group from NPD last year and it only comes in the Dual Exhaust version. Have yet to swap it in but when I do, I'll do it right and drill the hole in the drop off and put a rubber body plug in the old single exhaust wiring hole.
Doug
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
Ethanol Free 91 is still available around me (separate HOSE even at my local station), so that is all I run and thankfully Ethanol is not a concern for me.
I've also thought about EFI, but way too much stuff to modify or change which makes it even more difficult to try to maintain my desired "stock look". Plus the tuning aspect of it scares me.
When the engine was built in 1987, I originally ran a stock Autolite 4300 carb and swear it got better MPG's then. I switched to the Holley 600 CFM Double Pumper within a year or so and ran that for 32 years. It has 30 over TRW Forged Pistons (about 9.5 CR), a Crower 280HDP street/strip cam in it that gives it a nice & healthy sounding idle, and behind it is a Wide Ratio Toploader 4 Speed and 3.50:1 T-Lok 9".
When adjusting the idle screws / setting the idle on this Summit carb, I could not get the vacuum into the "normal" range no matter what I did ... as if there was a big vacuum leak somewhere. I don't remember if this was the same with the Holley and at the time I did nor feel like swapping it back on to find out. During all my tests to try and find this vacuum leak, I stuffed a rag into the top of the secondaries at idle and this will snub it out. So I think there may be an adjustment that may need to be done with the secondary butterflies (unless this is normal). Another reason swapping the Holley back on is even more tempting to see if a rag in it's secondaries will also snub it out !!
Other than the 3.50 gears (3000 RPM @ 63 MPH), you would think it could get better MPG's ... at least around town. I always felt that the Holley could use a little tweaking by someone with more carb knowledge than me and obviously now the Summit carb could definitely benefit from an expert's touch.
It starts, runs, and drives great "as-is" though, so I've just not had the time or ambition to play around with it any further.
Bottom line is this carb is definitely worth the cost & effort to try out on any small block Ford before the big switch to EFI.
Doug
kblagron and Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
Can't believe I'm already on my 3rd summer running this carb.
The engine really does run a lot better and smoother with it than it did with the Holley, and I can basically drive it out of the garage cold and the electric choke does it's job allowing me to drive off without letting it warm up a bit.
With the Holley (also with electric choke), it was a drama queen ... stumbling & sputtering if I did not let it warm up for a few minutes.
This 351W is still getting 8-9 MPG's ... I really thought the Annular Venturi's and Vacuum Secondaries would have made a difference.
Doug
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
Some have said that you really should NOT use the Power Brake vacuum port for the PCV connection, so today I bought a length of 3/8" tubing to see if I could custom bend a line to go under my fuel line to the front PCV port. Well, for a first attempt I think it turned out pretty good ...
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On 4/20/2023 at 8:28 PM, Cantedvalve said:Some recent acquisitions. We were able to find a nicely restored original Hurst shifter. Reproduction rods and handle, but original levers and T-handle. Also just purchased an original 1969 gauge cluster with tach and 140mph speedometer. Not sure I’ve ever seen a 140mph speedo before. Will obviously need to trade the panel for a 1970, but the gauges will work.
IIRC ... 140 MPH Speedometers were only used on 1969 Shelbys, so pretty much the rarest 1969-70 cluster out there.
That cluster is probably worth a whole lot more than a Deluxe 120MPH 1970 Tach Cluster. May as well try and find the correct cluster and re-sell that one.
Doug
RPM and 69RavenConv reacted to this -
Back in 2015 I was toying with the idea of swapping in a complete ready to bolt-in EPS (electric power steering) system that included a modified Ididit tilt column that would accept the stock 1969 steering wheel.
So maybe it has been available for a while !!
Doug
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
YES it's crazy how costs have gone up on most items in the past few years !!
Great exhaust tips though.
Doug
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Here is a picture of the page out of the 1969 Mustang Osborne Electrical Assy showing the hood turn indicator installation, wiring routing, and hardware.
As well as 2 pictures of a NOS factory harness currently on ebay that has this rare black plastic retaining clip taped onto the harness.
If you have a spare $995 laying around (plus $21.95 shipping) it could be yours !!
Not my listing, nor do I have any affiliation with the seller.
Doug
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Here is a picture of a low mile original Mach 1 hood scoop wiring at the firewall. It does not show the wiring at the scoop and since the car has the factory underhood pad in place it would not be visible anyway.
And two more pictures showing how I have it on my car where I tried to duplicate the factory routing and hardware as best I could.
The main variance from stock is the Zinc/Rubber coated clip holding the harness to my hood is incorrect ... the correct clip was black plastic and taped to the harness with friction tape and is not being reproduced and difficult to find used.
Doug
Deluxe Non-Clock Passenger Dash
in Parts for Sale / Wanted
Posted · Report reply
IIRC ... 1970 only.
Clock came std. on all 1969 with woodgrain dash ... aka Deluxe Interior Decor Group.
Doug