69rcode

Thanks for the responses. I did some more poking. I can confirm the car was COMPLETELY disassembled (and cut apart in some cases) and welded/painted/re-assembled. The paint is real purdy...on all the bolt holes and I'm betting that is causing me continuity issues :-(. The block is not yet in the car, so I have the negative cable temporarily grounded to the rad support. I do have a good ground throughout the engine bay and at a bolt coming through the firewall (ground for my epas system). In all cases, those points show as about 3 ohms to the negative post. Under the dash, however, is a different story For example, I thought the steering column support shown in the picture above would have decent continuity given that it's bolted in. If I test the continuity on a bare spot on this bracket, it isn't open but is 85-95 ohms to the negative post. Maybe that's good enough? That measurement seems to be consistent across other portions of the dash, when I get my probe onto bare metal. The interesting (or maybe not) part is that I function tested the instrument cluster, clock, all lights, turn signals etc and all tested fine before I tore it back apart to add the Vintage Air. The instrument/clock panels and stereo is not in yet though I'm still not very motivated to pull the dash frame back out again to get metal-metal connections at the connection point, assuming that's the problem. I think my options are: Leave it, assuming 85-95 ohms is just fine. Pull the kick panels out and get the hinge pillar connection points and the dash support brackets into clean metal. Run a good ground strap from the frame to the dash. Right now I was leaning to #3. I'm not sure if #1 is sufficient since I don't want to have grounding problems down the road. I don't recall a dash ground in the underdash harness as discussed above but maybe I missed something putting in the new harness. Any thoughts on the options above?

I'm doing a ground up build of a '69 Mustang. The entire car has been apart, repainted, and I'm in the process of re-assembly. I have validated all electrical function including interior lights, dash, etc. I am now installing aftermarket parts (Vintage Air) under the dash that require a good ground and I assumed the dash/frame would be grounded. However, after checking it with my gauge, I found that was not the case. I do have one item mounted the interior side of the firewall and it has a good ground to the firewall. Since I knew the firewall was grounded, I assumed the dash frame would also be grounded since it was bolted to the body. Should the dash frame be grounded and if so, how is it usually grounded?

I'm rebuilding a '69 and have the original wiper motor and it appears to be fine. I took the motor cover off and examined everything and found nothing out of order. The motor turns freely as does the pivot arm. I'd like to test it electrically on a bench (no harness avl now). However, its not clear what each wire is for. There are 4--red, black, blue, and white going into the motor. It looks like white, blue, and red all go to different brushes. I tried the obvious--12v across red/black to see if the motor ran but it seemed to just short. I don't think I kept it powered long enough to burn anything (just momentary swipe). Ideas on how to bench test this thing? Or can someone define white, blue, red, and black for me? Thanks in advance.