dbmac

This isn't that technical, but is anybody using the collector car insurance guys like Hagerty or Grundy? I dont think my State Farm guys will do me right if things go bad. Paying 320/yr with SF for liability only, Hagerty quoted 600/yr for full coverage at $50K stated value, and Grundy was even lower at $380. Seems like a much better way to go. Anybody actually had a claim with either? How did they do?

Perfect! Thanks guys. I could feel the larger hole for the pivot but wasn't exactly sure which direction the triangle pointed.

Hi, can anyone please shoot me a pic of the visor mounting location for the chrome triangle end? I did not learn the "leave the screws in" trick before I installed the headliner. Damn. Pretty sure I found them but want to be sure before I make holes. Have found pics of 67s but that location doesn't feel like anything in my 69. Thanks...

You are a bunch of clever bastards! I used to pull the rotor, but this on is a Summit with a screw on cap. Doable but a pain. But I guess it's worth it. I like the hidden kill switch, but by hotwiring the coil it bypasses most of them. Maybe the have the cutoff disconnect one of the distributor leads? The hotwire lights the coil but the distributor is not lit... my wires are all wrapped in power braid, not easy to figure them all out in a hurry. Not a big fan of the hood locks, I used to see them with the clip pin replaced by padlocks. Too lowrider for me. Anybody ever done a remote hood release? Not that you couldn't just crawl under and reach up to pop it. Smith and Wesson: not a good enough shot for that. Probably lose a toe... Fuel pump cutoff is good, they might still get the car but at least make the getaway a bit harder. Same on the GPS and shutoff. So that leaves... TRUNK MONKEY! Bummed that it's no longer available!

Nice! I was thinking about the neutral safety switch, I have a manual with a new Painless harness that still has it. But that's too easy to bypass under the hood. I like your idea - not expected and harder to find. Thanks! Others?

What are you all using to secure your classic Mustang? I love the classic '69 with the key on the dash, but that thing is trivial to steal with no steering column lock. The Club and similar are all limited by by the steering wheel which is easy to cut. What do you use to let you park it somewhere without sitting in it the whole time? I'm dying to take her out for the day but dreading leaving her parked all by herself... Its like leaving your toddler alone and telling her to "stay by the stroller"... ugh.

I did similar, like the retractor being in the armrest rather than under your feet. What did you use for the bezel?

Awesome, thanks for the links and info. What about alignment? Still takes a huge effort to go back or forward...

Any tips for getting the seat tracks aligned so the seats slide easily? The tracks slide fine on the bench, so I'm thinking they are not quite flat and parallel when in the car. Measured them as close as possible on the seat, but... And has anyone used the extenders like these: https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-seat-track-extender-pair-1965-1970/p/STE3/? $120 for two bars with four holes, two studs, and a slot?

Perfect, thanks for the details. I was trolling for-sale listings and found a few pics that looked similar (thought not very close up). The door and fender on that side is original. It has been a few years since it came apart but I don't remember there being any major problems in that area. Body shop "aligned" them, the gaps looked good but they did not have glass/trim. So.... it needs a little more persuasion now. Does this order seem reasonable: 1. Glass has the least amount of play so that is "reference". 2. Bottom windshield trim is next, that ~touches the glass and A-pillar. It has very little play and pulling it away from the glass or body is very noticeable. Trim then sets how far up the fender and cowl need to come. 3. Door is not under the windshield trim but needs to align with the fender. That would put the fender about where Barnett said - 1/4" 4. Back/bottom of the door needs to align with the body. Which means twist the door some more. Then work back and forth to get both ends of the door to align. Yeah, ain't no Swiss watch. Thanks.

I'm finishing up final assembly and struggling to get things lined up. The car came back from body and paint fitting well (as I remember), but now after all the other assembly, its not fitting so well. What are the typical gaps around the A-pillar? Where the door, fender, and windshield trim come together.... It seems like when I get the fender just under the trim, it is hard against the door. Door gaps are less than a quarter inch all around so not much room there. Similar for cowl/fender/hood - I have seen some pics where the cowl is tight against the fender, but my cowl is the exact same width as the hood so that doesn't seem right or possible. Plus there is a fender-to-cowl bumper which should be adding some space. Any pics would be great, just trying to figure out if its a pinkie or a thumb of space.

I just got a repro pad from CJPony, made by Dashes Direct (not Ford Tooling). I was expecting some problems but it fit very well. It has a full metal frame underneath. There was a little mismatch at the radio area, but since its metal I could tweak it to line up right on. A little trimming of the padding at the lower ends with a razor and it fits really well. Mounting locations at the windshield, radio, and outer dash all lined up well. The only thing I could gripe about is the heater vents are cutout rectangular, where the original had rounded ends. Otherwise I am very pleased. About $250 on sale.