pw520a

I cant even hear out of my left eye anymore!

I cant even hear out of my left eye anymore!

I didn't do it!  I swear on a stack of Camaro manuals!!!

Beauty 

After buying the car in pieces some 11 or twelve years ago, I cant tell you how good it feel do drive this thing down the road chirping tires through the gears!

wouldn't supporting it where the tire jack would go on the pinch weld work? that is how i lift with a quick jack     maybe I'm doing it wrong?  

After buying the car in pieces some 11 or twelve years ago, I cant tell you how good it feel do drive this thing down the road chirping tires through the gears!

No fixes, but I've seen that on most Mustangs I've been under. 

I took some 1/4" vacuum tubing and slit it down the side. Then slipped it over the parking brake cable. This way no rattle or rub marks on the nice painted floor pan.

Don't know which one is correct, but I would start with 18 (the middle one) and check speedometer reading with GPS then go up or down if needed. At least it is easy to change the gear.

Take a look at these:
https://www.428cobrajet.org/speedo-gears
https://www.428cobrajet.org/speedo-calc

As said above using the GPS. Plenty of cheap Speedo Apps for your phone that work vey well.
As a rule of thumb I found each tooth equates to about 5% change. 

Love the look , especially with the centrelines. 

Congrats!!!!   Looks great.  Got to love the big block! 

Kudos brother! 

thanks much for all your posts, great information! I am going with midlife's recommendation of stator terminal.  

Well that's interesting Mid- I have the ammeter version and am not familiar- what makes the indicator light version unsuitable to run a relay coil?

All these years, I guess I've just missed when wire 904 was mentioned as a switched 12 volt source under the hood !!
Thanks,
Doug 

904 is RUN-only and available in the engine compartment when you have an ammeter.  The alternator indicator lamp version o f 904 is routed differently to the voltage regulator and is not suitable for RUN-only relay capability.

Well, I mentioned wire 904 in my previous post. It should still be in the harness, even if the regulator has been removed. That is really the only source for switched power in the engine compartment. See the bottom of the page:

Well, wire 904 Green/red stripe that goes to the regulator plug "stator" pin is live when the ignition is in "start" or "on". Since its only about an 18ga wire, I would connect that to a relay coil and use the N.O. contacts to drive the choke, wired directly from the battery.

You could also use the female plug at the fire wall harness, currently using it on my 69 and 2- 70's

I had been running a Holley 600 CFM Double Pumper with a Holley 37-485 Electric Choke kit since  2012 and had it hooked up to the Stator terminal as Ford always did in the 70's & 80's..   Choke always opened fully in what seemed to be a normal amount of time.
Replaced the Holley earlier this year with a Summit M08600VS 600 CFM Vac Secondary with Electric Choke and again hooked it up to the Stator terminal.   It also opens fully with no issues.
Both the Holley Choke Kit and the Summit Carb state you MUST use a 12V source and I was going to wire in 12V if the Summit carb really needed it.   The Summit carb is actually made by Holley and the choke caps looked identical and the flat coil spring inside of both caps was the same thickness too.    
I like the relay idea shared by BlueCoupe, that would eliminate the need to run a wire inside the car to get 12V switched power as there is no source under the hood of a stock '69 Mustang.
Doug

The STATOR terminal on the alternator is what Ford used when it installed an electric choke.  The STATOR is RUN-only, and somewhat less than 12 Volts, which allows the choke to stay on a wee bit longer.

I used the alternator stator terminal to trigger a relay, which I wired to the battery side of the starter solenoid. I used a fusable link between the relay and starter solenoid. There is also a lot of good information here: