afret

The Powermaster XS works great on FE motors. Should be the same for small blocks. You keep the wiring all the same except for a small jumper wire on the starter. CJ Pony has a video.

I just used this wire with fuse. It states that you don't have to run the other wire if you use this 4 ga wire. http://www.paperformance.com/premium-short-9905/

3 3/4"

Mounted here on my race car: Mounted here on my street car:

Took off my old trans cooler and fan: Stuck on a bigger one and hopefully it won't need a fan. Still need to do the lines tomorrow.

Yeah, if you leave a 390 bone stock it will probably be slow with the stock cork of an intake and exhaust manifolds and it will be better to just stick with the small block. If would be easier and most likely cheaper to stay with the small block with all of the available performance parts. If you plan on doing a few mods on a 390 like a better intake manifold and headers, the engine will really wake up. Unlike several years ago, there is a lot more aftermarket support for the FE but unfortunately, the cost will likely be more than that of staying with the small block. Here's a stock eliminator 390 Fairlane using an aluminum PI intake, .481/.490 lift hydraulic flat tappet cam, 735 Holley, headers, unported heads, and a lot of careful machining and assembly. The car runs easy 10 second 1/4 mile times. Pretty good for boat anchor power.

I don't have much problem with headers on a FE Mustang especially the ones with separate tubes like REF. The one piece street headers like FPA are more of a pain since you have to undo the two motor mount bolts and the idler arm and jack the engine up but it's still no big deal. When I used to run the Hooker street headers, I cut the flanges apart to separate the tubes and used slip on collectors which made it easy to take off and put back on. I guess if you're not used to working on an FE in a Mustang it can seem kind of difficult. You can see the REF headers on my old 428 stocker. You just have to pull the collectors off and unbolt each tube separately and pull them out from below:

Can't figure out why people say it's hard to do plug changes on an FE. Probably takes me 15 minutes if I'm not in a rush. As mentioned before, the hardest part is putting the spark plug boots on especially if you have the big block shock tower braces.

I would just stick with a C4 if you want an auto trans. That's what I use on my FE cars. You can get the right bell housing from PA or QuickTime.

Look at the first item on page 36 of the link. I think it shows a 0.5" head for the spring centering bolt. https://www.amkproducts.com/Catalog_PDF/24-38.pdf I'm using a 3/8" socket head bolt on my Calvert mono leaf springs instead of the original centering bolt. The socket head bolt has a 9/16" diameter round head which fits in the hole on the rear end housing spring perch just right.

Yup, the Contour fans work well. I have the same ACP radiator in my '69 with the Contour fans. I've been driving slowly on the dirt roads around here ( 10 MPH max which is basically idling) so I don't throw up too much dust. I have one fan come on at 185* and the other at 195* with switches to manually turn them on. So far with one fan on the temperature creeps up to 195* but when the second fan turns on, the temperature drops to 185* where the second fan turns off. If I keep the second fan on the temp keeps dropping to about 180* where I just turn it off so I don't know how low it will go with the two fans on. The outside temperature has been in the 80s. The engine is a 482 FE with a mild/moderate solid roller cam. You will probably need to go to a 3G alternator though. I did the swap which was simple. There is a 95 amp 3G alternator that is the same size as the old alternator but the one adjustment bolt is metric so you just need to get the correct bolt. It powers the Contour fans, fan for transmission cooler, electric water pump, electric fuel pump, and MSD 7 no problem. These guys carry the alternator and wiring kits for the swap. I used the kit to get rid of the voltage regulator. You can find the alternator cheaper elsewhere though. http://www.paperformance.com/95a-3g-alternator-1614e/

Finished with the glass hood a little while ago so went for a drive on the dirt roads around here today. Had to blow the dust off the back of the car with the air compressor when I got back. LOL

Are you sure you have a 2600 stall converter? I would think it would flash at least to the stall speed at launch and be where your engine is starting to make power. I don't know anything about AODs but with a C4 or C6 a performance converter is usually smaller than 12".

http://www.paperformance.com/1g-3g-conversion-462802c/ or http://www.paperformance.com/3g-adapter-462802b/

That's the proportioning valve and the bracket bolts on. Those fittings for the front 3/16" lines that fit into the block are hard to find.

Do you mean the distribution block? I just got rid of the distribution block in my '69 race car and '69 street car and run the line from the MC directly to the line lock.

If you do a search, I think you'll find that the Comp Cams XE series tends to cause a lot of valve train noise probably due to the design of the ramps (fast) on the cam lobes. If that won't bother you, that cam seems to be a reasonable choice for what you're looking for. Otherwise, something like the Comp High Energy 268 will probably work great. The Lunati Voodoo I think has even faster ramps than the Comp XE but isn't supposed to be noisy. Both companies make good cams. Right now, I have a Lunati Voodoo in my street FE but it's a solid lifter cam. And one thing you might consider is a torque converter with a little more stall. It makes the car perform better with a larger cam letting the engine get to the power band quicker from a standing start.

I got the conversion wiring to get rid of the voltage regulator. http://www.paperformance.com/3g-adapter-462802b/

When I went to a 3G, I just got everything I needed from this place: http://www.paperformance.com/95a-3g-alternator-1614e/

You might consider talking directly to John Calvert if you're having a big recurring problem like that. The Caltrac setup is pretty much bulletproof and I'm sure he would like to find out what's going on in your case.

The wheels are 15x10" wide. The tires are 30x9" wide. You can't go any bigger on the slicks than that in NHRA stock class The suspension is the typical Caltracs, mono leafs, and adjustable shocks in the rear. The front has Moog 8306 6 cylinder springs and Strange DA shocks.

Yup, the one in the top photos is a CVR 55 GPM pump. The one in the bottom photo is a 35 GPM CSR pump. Places like Summit carry them. If you have a FE engine, only CSR and Meziere make electric pumps for this application and the biggest is a 42 GPM pump. I wanted a 55 GPM unit so I had to get adapters which are available from Jay Brown at this link: http://www.fepower.net/Products/cvradapt.html

The one Max Power linked to fits without any mods into the stock brackets. It's nice to get something that actually fits for a change. I just installed one a few days ago with the Contour fans to replace my 4 row brass radiator to lose some weight. The unit thick with the dual 1 1/4" tubes. I tried the one from US Radiator but the radiator cap was too high and hit the hood a bit so I went back to the brass unit for awhile. You can see how the neck and cap stick up a lot. The dip in the top where the neck goes isn't low enough on the US radiator unit.

I think your car looks fine with those wheels. Any photos with the 275 tires? I think they do a good job filling the rear wheel wells on a '69. I'm really old school and like the big sidewall look. I must be one of the few left that like old the drag car look. This is with my old street duty tires/wheels: This is with my track tires. 28x9 rear drag radials.

I use NPD, CJ, and Branda most of the time. Don't mean to hijack but do you make the Stang-Aholics fiberglass parts? We drove to their shop back in 2012 and picked up their '69 Shelby kit and made our clone.