driventofreedom

Huh, guess not.

I wish I could say my rides are special but they are just practical. My dd is a 02 Mitsubishi lancer 2.0 liter manual trans. 110,000 miles with no problems ever. Best vehicle I've ever had. My wife has a 97 explorer 4wd with a 4.0 liter sohc. If I ever meet the guy that designed that motor I'm gonna give him a swift kick in the junk. My weekend ride is a 78 camaro with 350 and 4 speed manual. Kinda fun but not my style. My father-in-law became disabled so he gave it to me to drive it and sell it for him. Then my workhorse, 79 chevy Scottsdale 4wd pickup with a 350 and auto tranny. another gift from my in-laws. This one was parked for 10+ years with a cracked block. Its good now but I've got some transfer case troubles.

I found a company that makes a bracket kit that converts drums to discs by buy their brackets and Spacers. They give you instructions and a list of parts to buy/salvage from other vehicles like s10 caliper, ranger disc, and Cadillac brake lines. It comes out cheaper than the conversion kits I've found and seems real simple to setup. Has anyone tried this? The site is http://www.scarebird.com/index.php?id=0

I came across this add he other day on Craigslist. This guy named Trevor has suspension and a front drum to disc conversion from opentracker all still new in packaging. He is asking 1500 for it all. I don't have the cash and I figured I would pass it on to everyone. His name is Trevor and he is located in rock island, ok. The listing I found was under fort smith, ar titled "1967-1973 mustang suspension kit and body parts." Dated 3/2/11. His phone number is listed on the ad. I asked him to email me with what he had and this is what he sent. "Mike, Here's the kit they pieced together for me. ORP Standard upper arms - $199 ORP Standard lower arms - $160 Roller spring perches - $199 Steering kit - W/ roller idler arm - $250 1 1/8' front sway bar - $110 KYB front shocks - $90 Grab-A-Track rear shocks - $56 Strut rod bushings - $25 1/4' poly coil spring insulators - $20 Disc brake kit - $524 Everything here, plus shipping was around $1775. I'd let everything go for $1500." I told him I would pass it along.

In the next few weeks I'm going to have the car blasted so I can see what I'm really working with. The guy that is doing it is super reasonable on price and has done plenty of cars, several of which were mustangs. He also said he could spray it with primer to keep it from rusting. My problem is I know nothing about paint/primer. After it is sprayed it is gonna sit for a bit while I replace any metal I find that needs replaced. Got any recommendations? Also if you could explain why because I don't know the differences just by hearing what it's called or made out of. This way I won't have to ask again in the future. Btw all of you have been great and I apreciate all the help I have been getting here. :thumbup:

I have been thinking about it too. I found several kits but no pics of any in a 69. When I looking for a kit I found just push button switches at first. Dont do that unless you want someone to jack your ride. I did however find some complete kits with key fobs so it wont start unless the keyfob was within a few feet. I dont know how they would look in the car, but I imagine they would be sharp as hell. ididit inc has one that is stainless with a round "halo" xbox type light on it w/ 2key fobs and all intallation parts needed for $400. They also sell steering columns with it built in but then you still have the hole from the original key on the lower dash. I also found a company called stardrive that sells kits similar to ididit for a little more but the buttons look like ones you would find in modern cars with the plastic buttons that have the circular arrows printed on for start/stop. Those also come with key fobs and are a little more expensive. They sell a kit that is $300-350 depending on button color/style or a kit with a built in alarm system for $419-479 depending on button color/style. I don't know anyone who has used either but I plan on trying one on my ride. I would say I will post pics but it will be a long,long,long while. I'm just getting started on my ride restore. If you willing to wait.... http://www.auto-hub.com/stardrive_push_start_ignition.html http://www.ididitinc.com/accessory_pages/key_to_keyless.html Oh wait, that didn't your question at all. Sorry lol. I saw the thread and got carried away.

Thanks for the input. The initial adrenalin rush is gone after seeing a 429 w/ a car for 500 bones. I am playing it safe and smart as far as money goes. The less that I spend on a whim, the more I can concentrate on needed items. Not to mention less work / time before it's on the road. If anyone is interested for themselves the car is in junction city, arkansas. It's a 72 thunderbird 429 with auto tranny. I dont rember his name but the guy's number is 870-510-0712. FYI junction city is a small town just north of the Arkansas Louisiana state line.

I found a 429 from a 72 tbird I can buy but I haven't decided wether or not to buy it. My car had a 351 at one point and I have one to put back in it. He price is good on the 429 ($500 with the tbird). What I wondering is how much work it will take to put it in. Can anyone tell me what it will involve? It is real tempting but I don't know what the car will need to have done to it to handle the biggie.

It's standard black but no tach. If it did it would be mine o mine! Lol. I forgot to post pics of the gauges. I will later today or sometime soon.

Thanks for all the input! I guess what I meant to say was the carrier is also still factory. Ya know the part that holds the yoke, the "WAR" and "N" parts. Or am I better off reselling it and finding a trac loc? I haven't found much helpful info to help me ID the diff by looks besides machined vs not (or partial). I'm going to crack into it soon and see what the clutches, and what not, look like. I was reading something that said you can tell if it's a trac loc or Equa by the #of tabs on the plates. But back to my original question... is the housing different when they put open diffs in them or do they use the same ones on posi cars? I haven't had a chance since I bought it to look at the carrier on the car. It's currently parked at my inlaws until I clear some room at my place. Sorry for being long winded but I'm trying to be thorough. Measure twice, cut one. Better yet, research twice and purchase once.

A few days ago I purchased what I thought was 9" trac loc unit and later found out to be a Equa lock unit. I know they are nearly the same thing. The unit appears to be in good shape with clutches that don't need to be replaced but I will do just to be safe. My issue is I have never worked on a rear end therefore I don't know much about them. I know that the Equa locks were made prior to the traction locks. I know they use different parts. What I don't know is wether my 3rd member carrier will work or if I need a different one. Right Now the car has a 28 spline open diff and I would like to put this 28 spline equalock in but I'm not sure how to proceed from here. Any input is appreciated. Help me!!!!!:helpsmilie:

Pics of the parts

I have most of a 70 model front end up for sale. I have: 1 set of headlight assemblies, grill (has one crack for sure, but I will have to check again and the mounting tabs are there), and both fenders. I also have most of the 69 model door window glue-in guides the glass slides into, I believe I have both for the passenger door but only the larger one for the driver door. And last but not least I have an extra gauge cluster. it will need new lenses and a new printed circuit. If I'm not mistaken it also has one of the mounting tabs broke off. If anyone is interested let me know. I will post pics in a day or two. I am also looking for a 69 lower valance and/or fenders if someone wants to trade anything listed here.