paulcw1

Hey Gary, Is this sale still going on?

Great info. Thanks guys. So, then this is a 1973 Ford part. Any thoughts on how I can determine what the application was? Maybe a Mustang, Thunderbird or Cougar underhood light? Since its not for a 69 Mustang I think I'll sell it but it would be good to know what its for so I don't inadvertently misrepresent it. TIA.

Sorry to dig up this old thread but I found an old one in my garage. I think it has part number D3A8 15702 AA on it. Does anyone know if this is a Mustang under hood accessory light or maybe a Cougar or is it something else. I've had it for so long (over 20 years) that I can't remember the details on where I got it but as I vaguely recall I thought it was an under hood light for a Mach 1 that was part of a décor or lighting group (but I could be totally wrong).

OK, need a little help with my current set up. My power steering pump took a dump so I purchased a KRC set up from TCP. I have factory AC and when I mount the new KRC power steering pump the pulley for the new KRC pump overlaps with and hits the back of the idler pulley on the AC belt. Its the idler pulley mentioned in the post quoted here. Its the driver's side AC idler pulley that is below the AC compressor and above the crank pulley on the long vertical belt run from the AC to the crank. From the above post from danno it sounds like that AC idler pulley was added by Ford at some point to eliminate the vibration induced belt noise when the AC is on. One solution for me would be to remove that AC idler pulley and hope I don't get the noise but I wanted to get your opinions and suggestions on other fixes and I would love to here what others have done who have added the KRC pump to a factory AC car. All suggestions are welcome. Thanks!

A 255 will fit on the front as long as you also have the correct aspect ratio, wheel width, offset and backspacing. I'm running 255 40 18 on the front on 18x8.5 wheels with no problems at all and my car is lowered about 2 inches (I have coil overs but I don't think that changes anything in the front). I'm running 285 35 18 on the rear with a 18x9.5 wheel with no problems either (but I have coil overs back there too but its the frame rail that is the limiting factor back there for me). The diameter, backspacing and offset are critical to get correct for your setup. Also, don't forget that tires of the same published size from one manufacturer will have a slightly different actual size than those from a different manufacturer. I'm currently running Michelin Pilot Super Sports on the car now but I had Goodyears on it last year (F1 GS-D3) and they both fit (the Super Sports are MUCH better performing, though). By the way, a 6 inch rim is too narrow for a 235 60 tire. It will pinch in the side wall too much and you'll lose performance compared to a 215 or 225 on the same wheel. 7 inches would be the narrowest I would suggest for a 235 60. If you really want to stay with a 15 inch wheel I would look for one that is 7.5 inches wide and put a 245 55 or a 255 55 on it (total diameter of 26 inches), but be sure to check your wheel backspacing and offset. A larger diameter wheel will allow you to fit larger brake calipers too and if you stick with a 15 inch wheel you'll be limited to small brakes so if you plan to put bigger brakes on it down the road (sorry for the pun) it might be good to upsize the wheels to 16 or 17 inch diameter. Just my thoughts but its not my car and you should outfit it the way you prefer.

Hi Folks, I still have this nice sway bar in my garage all boxed up and ready to ship. Anybody interested? Thanks, Paul

Hi Folks, I still have this nice sway bar in my garage all boxed up and ready to ship. Anybody interested? Thanks, Paul

SOLD, SOLD, SOLD Thanks for looking. Hi Folks, I have a nearly new front sway bar that came off my small block car with about 3k miles on it. It includes the brackets and bushings aling with two different size end links depending on whether your car is lowered or not. The bar has a small amount of rust proofing overspray on it but that can be removed with some elbow grease. I'm looking to get $75 plus $25 for shipping to the lower 48 states. Thanks, Paul

Oh, well in that case I would look for an "Ultra High Performance" all season tire. In temps below freezing the rubber compound of summer tires will become too hard and you will have poor traction (even in dry conditions and forget about rain or any sleet/snow as they would be dangerous). So, if you plan on driving it in temps below about 45 then you can ignore my suggestions above and consider these (in the order of my preference): 1) Continental ExtremeContact DWS (the difference is the "S" at the end for snow. my son has them on his car and they perform really well and grip almost as good as the summer DW tires) 2) Michelin Pilot Sport AS Plus (heard good things about them but a little pricey) 3) BF Goodrich g-Force Super Sport A/S (not familiar with them but havent' heard anything bad about them) 4) Pirelli Pzero Nero All Season (heard mixed reviews) 5) Kuhmo Ecsta ASX (don't know anything about them) 6) Uniroyal Tiger Paw GTZ (no clue) Hope that helps.

There are a ton of high performance summer tires out there that come in that combination of sizes. I have the Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 and love them (in 255 40 18 on the front and 285 35 18 on the rear). Here are some to consider: Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 Continental ExtremeContact DW Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport BF Goodrich g-Force Sport or g-Force T/A KDW Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 Kumho Ecsta SPT or Ecsta XS Nitto NT555 Nexen N3000 Riken Rapto ZR Fuzion ZRi General Exclaim UHP Firestone Firehawk Wide Oval Indy 500 I really like my Goodyear F1 GS-D3, but they're pricey. I've heard good things about the Michelins (and they're a little cheaper). My third choice would be the Continental ExtremeContact (had them on another car and liked them) and then tied for 4th would be the Bridgestones and the BF Goodrich tires. I've had them both (the Potenza and the T/A) and liked them, but not quite as much as the Goodyear or the Contis. The rest, I'm not too familiar with and would steer clear of unless you know someone who has them on a similar car (classic muscle car) in a similar size (width and aspect ratio) that really likes them (and knows what they're talking about). Hope that helps.

The 285/35/18 fits fine on the rear without rolling the fender lips if you have the right wheel backspacing/offset.

And here's a few of the front.

Hi, I took a few quick pics tonight for you but its not great with the car on the lift. I think you can tell which are the front and rear shots but let me know if you can't. Hope that helps.

I'm running 255 40 18 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 on the front on 8 inch wide wheels and on the rear I'm running 285 35 18 on 9.5 inch wide wheels on my 69 Mach 1. I think that is the widest you can go without rolling the fenders or other mods. I have Total Control Products front and rear coil over suspension with a 1 1/8 inch sway bar up front and a power rack and pinion steering system. The car handles great for the street. Its lowered about 1.5 inches all the way around and the shocks are set on about the middle setting for compression and rebound so it rides fine over the bumps. I don't race it but if I were, I can lower it another inch in about 20 minutes and adjust the shocks to be quite a bit firmer and then it should hold its own against any heavily modified S197 on the track.