quarkdude

I installed a brand new 3 core Champion aluminum radiator and that thing rocks! In the 90's degree summer temps here in New Mexico it keeps things nicely cool even idleing in traffic. Have had only good results from that radiator. I would recommend one for a Mustang guy that wants better than stock cooling. quarkdude

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Hello rOOster, You found me here. ha ha. You are very correct, the car is ready for you guys. It will be a pleasure to see you guys this weekend. quarkdude

More Pics....................More Pics............................More Pics Thanks for looking, quarkdude

Hello all, I have lowered the price on the car, I really need to sell it for another daily driver. This car would make a great Christmas present for your self or significant other. MERRY CHRISTMAS:angel:

The car has been in New Mexico and Arizona - beyond that I have no info on it. The car is rust free which is nice. Thanks, quarkdude

The car is still available, Don't forget to call 505-205-2618. :yes: :yes:

Hello all, I have decided to put the 'Stang up for sale. I have a craigslist ad at this link: http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/2679338894.html If interested feel free to call me 505-205-2618 Asking $6500 for the running car and the original numbers matching 302 (Block, heads, cam, crank) Thanks a bunch for looking.:walkman:

Tried putting it in first gear on both the shifter and the transmission rods and tightened down. Now it won't go into park. I wonder if the shifter linkage on a 1969 is different than a 1970 - maybe I got a mix match of parts from the previous owner. What do you think?? quarkdude

I have been working on my 1969 Mustang coupe - 302 w/ C4 transmission. I am trying to adjust my stock shifter. I can line it up in park, however if I take the shifter down to 1st gear on the transmission, the shifter only lines up with 2nd in the indicator and it won't go down anymore. I got under the car and loosened the shifter linkage so I could move the linkage going to the transmission only and I get 6 detents out of it PRND21 which seems correct. It seems my shifter throw is off or something. Is there a certain place you put the shifter in versus the transmission to get them to both line up?? Thanks a bunch, quarkdude

Hello all, Finally got the 'Stang on the road this weekend. A long time coming but finally here. The car did well enough, I drove it to work today. Got some rocker arm noise so I will be pulling valve covers tonight to adjust rocker arm torque. This setup pulls pretty hard on the upper RPM's. Not a screamer off the line but pretty nice after about 20mph. I'M rolling - WhooHooo! :yes: quarkdude

Hello 70mstang, Thanks for the kind words. Thought I would document in detail what we found for others that might run into this issue. I found it kind of hard to find any info on the web about it. quarkdude

Had a buddy come by last night to listen to the ringing/Dinging noise when the engine was running. He got under the car while I started it and heard the noise and verified it was coming from the bell housing. He then looked at the starter to flex plate distance and noticed it was dangerously close. I climbed under and looked and definitely agreed it looked too close. Manually rotated engine by hand to postion the flex plate weight at the starter and wouldn't you know it, it was hitting ever so slightly. So we shimmed up the starter with some washers and tried starting it again. WhaaLaaaa! No noise. Well, when you rev the motor you can start to hear the noise again. I did some research on the web and found that there are Starter shims out there. Found one at the local Autozone and bought it. It measures 0.100 inch thick which is about 2.1 times bigger than the washers I used to space out the starter. So I installed the shim and started the car again - Whoohooo! No noise. I rev'd the engine and still no noise. Problem Solved. Now it's assembly for driving.:001_rolleyes: quarkdude

Hello Rcodenewf, Thanks for the advice. I checked the torque converter bolts to the dust shield plate and rotated the engine by hand watching the four TQ bolts go by and they are definitely not hitting. The starter is clear of the flywheel and is not rubbing. Ohh yea, the NO WATER. I only ran it for a minute/minute and a half to check it - I agree, don't run it long. Just didn't want to put it all in if I had to take the engine back out again. Thanks, quarkdude

Hello Rcodenewf, Thanks for the advice. I checked the torque converter bolts to the dust shield plate and rotated the engine by hand watching the four TQ bolts go by and they are definitely not hitting. The starter is clear of the flywheel and is not rubbing. Ohh yea, the NO WATER. I only ran it for a minute/minute and a half to check it - I agree, don't run it long. Just didn't want to put it all in if I had to take the engine back out again. Thanks, quarkdude