dzahm

Well I would use metal as plastic will get old/brittle, and NOONE would want to do this repair again in 10 yrs. (I only say this since the car is already gutted) It couldn't take long to weld in a collar and seam seal it then prime the cowl. Then you know its right for the next 40 yrs.

All the above will work- but when I did mine my body guy showed me a faster, easier way(well maybe easier but less comfortable for 5 mins.) Loosen latch on the car not the decklid, put a small person in the trunk w/wrench and light. Shut trunk and adjust position. Have person inside tighten latch. open/close repeat above steps if not happy.

1st- not sure if mine works either- but mine reads a hair on the discharge side when sitting. More towards D if you turn on lights etc. When I start it jumps to the charge side but only for 10 secs or so. Then back to slight D. Periodically when driving it will wiggle, like a heartbeat, for 10 secs or so then back to D. I think my volt reg is solid state, don't know why it wiggles, but it seems to follow how I think the charging system works.

Well... I do agree ford wouldn't spend money if it wasn't needed- but mine was sooo easy- and the difference so slight (about 1/4 inch offset on one arm) Maybe its more important on the fastback- I did notice alot of posts where people had issues- then the usual suggestions for fixes (usually with a link to the adjustments)- then the threads would stop with no definitive answers-(which eventually led me to beleive the OP's either adjusted the glass to fit, or just bought a 70 regulator) If we figure this out we should make this a sticky or a how to.

I changed my 69 vert glass out for bolt in. I reused my 69 regulators, as the 70s were in lesser condition. But either would work- I read many threads re: 69 or 70 regulators- I personally think its all in the adjustment. I might point out that the rear glass is different too (only on verts/coupes) so you need that too. AND the rear glass is glue in for 69 and 70-

Not really- it might decrease the value if the buyer is worried that its a coupe that was converted or a fastback that was stolen. Marti report would help you prove it one way or another. (be prepared if it is the latter to lose the car though) If you got this in a shady type deal (or from a shady character) I would probably NOT check this out.

You should have the riv nuts in the hardware that came with the mirrors- looks like a funny rivet (but no "nail-like" thing sticking out) and has threads inside. Make your own rivnut tool, or load up the doors and run down to a local body shop- they will have the tool and for a cold 6 pak (for after work) someone will likely pop em in- about 5 seconds per rivnut. If you make your own tool- make sure you get the rivnuts tight so your mirror don't flop around.

How bout a 2.3L ford turbo (ala turbo coupe or mustang svo) They are nearly bullet proof, many parts are available even race parts, and around 30mpg if you keep your foot out of it. You can easily get 200hp out of one

After looking at your pics- Is that bondo I see on the fender? if so REMOVE THAT too- it will absorb water and rust from underneath (another reason it gets a bad reputaton) If it has paint on it its ok but it looks like your paint broke down allowing moisture in, which caused the rust- You can get primer in black if you want so the car doesn't look too bad.

After looking at your pics- Is that bondo I see on the fender? if so REMOVE THAT too- it will absorb water and rust from underneath (another reason it gets a bad reputaton) If it has paint on it its ok but it looks like your paint broke down allowing moisture in, which caused the rust- You can get primer in black if you want so the car doesn't look too bad.

Sand with the least gritty paper that does the job (prob 240, 320) etc- remove all traces of rust to clean shiney metal. Blow off, wipe clean with laquer thinner or wax and grease remover. Spray or brush epoxy primer on the shiney metal. DO NOT USE the standard grey primer- (high build, etc) It is NOT water proof- the epoxy is (be sure to wear a respirator if you spray epoxy primer)

Sand with the least gritty paper that does the job (prob 240, 320) etc- remove all traces of rust to clean shiney metal. Blow off, wipe clean with laquer thinner or wax and grease remover. Spray or brush epoxy primer on the shiney metal. DO NOT USE the standard grey primer- (high build, etc) It is NOT water proof- the epoxy is (be sure to wear a respirator if you spray epoxy primer)

I read somewhere that this was a very unusual occurance- I didn't really like the thought of burning to death- but the board (don't recall which one- maybe VMF) pretty much said it wasn't really an issue. Anyone else recall that thread?

I read somewhere that this was a very unusual occurance- I didn't really like the thought of burning to death- but the board (don't recall which one- maybe VMF) pretty much said it wasn't really an issue. Anyone else recall that thread?

Do yourself a favor and replace them with the led's. I cannot believe the difference- I think its the best upgrade I have done. I used the 5x bulbs and WOW. I changed the rest out because of them (heater and clock)

Do yourself a favor and replace them with the led's. I cannot believe the difference- I think its the best upgrade I have done. I used the 5x bulbs and WOW. I changed the rest out because of them (heater and clock)

http://the-lost-car-registry.com/- might be worth a shot. Maybe you could narrow it down (like 69 mustang vert- bought in dearborn in Aug 68, had a 302, and was lime gold with red interior) So we can deduce 9f03f and unit number would be 110000 or less- then with a weird set of options Marti could possibly hit the vin. Now can this work with a Mopar? I don't know but maybe it will give you some ideas. I for one hope you find it.

http://the-lost-car-registry.com/- might be worth a shot. Maybe you could narrow it down (like 69 mustang vert- bought in dearborn in Aug 68, had a 302, and was lime gold with red interior) So we can deduce 9f03f and unit number would be 110000 or less- then with a weird set of options Marti could possibly hit the vin. Now can this work with a Mopar? I don't know but maybe it will give you some ideas. I for one hope you find it.

Any history on the car? Last tranny flush, rebuild recently etc? My uneducated non mechanic guess is the tranny is probably on its way out. You can add an additive and flush but be prepared- this may simply finish off the tranny or you may get 10000 more miles. You will find many storys about changing fluid and trannys failing soon after- most were way overdue and the damage was already done. Maybe you'll get lucky and its a linkage thing.

Any history on the car? Last tranny flush, rebuild recently etc? My uneducated non mechanic guess is the tranny is probably on its way out. You can add an additive and flush but be prepared- this may simply finish off the tranny or you may get 10000 more miles. You will find many storys about changing fluid and trannys failing soon after- most were way overdue and the damage was already done. Maybe you'll get lucky and its a linkage thing.

What was up with the 29's? 29th yr of fritos? I jst thought it would be interesting to see what happened with the contest cars. I saw an add recently for a texaco giveaway car (two door LTD convert- maybe 1971) that was red/white/black (like texaco colors) Not my cup-o-tea but kinda cool An interesting note: I did see where Fritos caught hell over the bandido character- seems it was racist toward mexicans so thats why he isn't around anymore

I saw an ad for Fritos from 1969 where they were giving away I think 10 convertibles. I searched but never could find any other details (colors, winner list, specs etc. Anyone ever heard of this? Since the verts are somewhat rare, surely somewhere someone must remember or know something- anybody?

I don't know- but if the oil pan is stock- change the oil and add the normal 5 qts (or however much a 351 takes) then mark the stick at that level

One or two rivets (on the top of the grill) are still easily pulled out when "locked" I thought about wrapping tape around the rivet to tighten the hold but I don't want it visible. I still have that feeling I am not doing something right. I will try again tonight

Cool, I was afraid I would break the grill- I will try that - FWIW thats how I got the barrel clips in for the mustang letters and side emblems. Lowes paint stick and a rubber mallet. Thanks