dzahm

Heck I thought the small gap there was supposed to be there. It looked to me like the weatherstrip got old and shrunk back, and even the stangs I remember from the late 80s had the gap. Only thing was when rinsing/washing you made sure to rinse front to back, then it really didn't leak. I don't recall air noise really either. I hope he chimes in as I may have to reset the window/weatherstrip if he got his worked out.

I was going to buy a flex hose but I kept forgetting, and then it turned into seeing how long it would last, then I got busy and 2 projects later its still there. I always keep the compressor breaker off when I am not in the shop so it wouldn't really do much if/when the hose bursts. (SWMBO hates having the compressor kick on as it dims the house lights- so I kinda have to keep it off) So in the end I do realize I need a flex hose-still I am amazed at the planning and money that went into my system and a used free water hose in the middle with still excellent results.

Only disadvantage of black pipe is the eventual rust particles. You can use galvanized pipe if rust would bother you. I did use pvc but eventually changed about 80% of it to galvanized. If you sandblast make sure you have a good sized pipe, with several water traps as mentioned. I was also told that if you had a large enough pipe that it serves as an additional air "tank". (though I haven't tried any math to see if that is significant or not) FWIW-I bought my stuff at Lowes- don't forget the pipe tape. Oh yeah for the flexible connection from the pipe system to the compressor; I used............... a frickin water hose.... yep, I hooked it up to test the system cause it was late at night, and I wanted to test everything. 5 yrs and hundreds of hours later.....its still working. Best part is the hose is prob 20 ft long- so after 5 yrs- if it busts, I might just cut off the bad and hook it up again.

You could also go back to original seat upholstery (via NPD, Cjs, etc) Not too expensive. U just need to think out your color scheme, deluxe vs standard, high back/low back and stock vs restomod before you drop much cash; as there are many ways to go here. (check out craigslist to see how many people dropped cash for interior upholstery then changed their mind- you'll be surprised but usually not your style or year) There are even some cool upholstery sets from TMI (npd etc) called a sport seat I think. You could also find the high back seats from a mach I. When you pick out carpet you should look at the mach 1 carpet which has built in floor mats- very cool indeed IMHO. I was gonna do the carpet upgrade for my vert but the PO was kind enough to already have purchased normal carpet.

Post this in the general section- also be more specific (painting the car itself orange or the engine? or the engine bay) Your engine bay looks good, I see no signficant rust, so hopefully a scotchbrite pad will do the trick for the bay area. You do know chevrolet painted engines orange right? You might not know Ford engines will not run if they are painted orange, in fact if it runs at all you will lose 100 horsepower just from that "modification". (ok maybe not exactly, but you won't get much love here if you paint the motor orange; and every car show you'll have to deal with "so why did you put a chevy motor in it?")

I have also used needlenose pliers and or a screwdriver to remove these bezels. Never found one that was tight enough to need a tool for this job.

I know of the rubber thing of which you speak. I was debating pulling mine out to repaint the houseing but I was afraid of taking out the rubber. It is a very special piece (shape wise) and mine was all age hardened. I don't know who/where to buy one. I can try to get a pic of the rubber thing but it will likely be tomorrow or tuesday. I was thinking the rubber thing probably was so the magnetic part of the speedo was kept away from the metal houseing.

If you go to an autobody/paint store they'll have clean up thinner (and several kinds of seam sealer) I think its just a cheaper (meaning not good enough to use for painting) thinner. The tar like substance will likely pop loose during your cleaning efforts leaving only half left. In my case it was easier to remove all (it'll come off in seconds with a putty knife) Then do the scotch brite/laq thinner trick for the residue and the original paint and you'll be very happy. You can then blast/grind only the rusty areas minimizing mess, and hopefully speeding up the process (since your not waiting for a blaster to come, and all the associated mess that you'll spend more time cleaning/blowing out cracks/crevices.) New seam sealer is cheap, easy to apply and most important will seal better than 40+ yr old sealer. I just couldn't see a good way to clean around it, paint and have it look good, and since removeing it was sooo easy, I went for it. (I should mention- I have 2 sandblasters, DAs, and aircraft stripper at my disposal but this was by far the easiest and fastest IF the floors look like yours, and if you didn't want to remove the dash/wiring/etc)

A suggestion for cleaning the floor(since yours looks very nice) Laquar thinner and a red scotch brite pad- it wont touch rust- but its fast, easy, cheap and your floors will look like the day it was assembled prior to primer. I couldn't beleive how well it worked for my floors/cowl/trunk. Get clean up thinner; (not the "good" kind) about 30$ for a 5 gal bucket. (you won't need that much but you can soak parts in it, clean up spray guns, etc) I went back with epoxy primer, mainly cause my floor looked so damn good. Was your car gold? (cause it sure looked like mine prior to the above) Oh the scotch brite/laq thinner trick also removes the residue you will have from the tar like seam sealer once you have scraped it off too

I would think it would take a HELL of a fire to mess up an engine. I have seen cars that were burned and brought back (but the sheetmetal is usually warped horribly) Was this a normal type fire (like mild fire damage and severe smoke damage)? or some ungodly event (ie garage caught the car which was full of gas which got the welding tanks and the propane tanks for the gas grill, and it melted the steel roof girders) Also did the fireman squirt the motor full of water? Hope you can fix it though- did you get a good deal?

Mines a vert (but windows, regulators, etc) should be the same- and they go all the way down. Not even a 1/4" is left exposed.

Mine was the same way. I took a small piece of sheet metal about 1/2 in long and about 1/8 wide and maybe 18gauge and "glued" it over the worn spot using some 2 part epoxy from auto zone. I was very careful installing the spring (and got it on backwards- so I pulled it back off and reinstalled). That was May 2011- car has gone 600 miles, and been washed maybe 5 times and it still holding strong. U can't see this when the headlight and hardware are installed. (maybe you could see it from underneath if u knew where to look but I doubt it.)

I can take a pic- but the only thing I got was the metal box (no ford numbers- just the ac cruisemaster under the dirt/grease. The turn signal switch that I thought was original has a rubber tip (black) with a black button (which after consulting ebay- doesn't look like OEM) I didn't get the accelerator part, or the vacuum ball thingy or the oem cruise on/off switch So I am pretty sure I have wasted money here (but I don't mind sharing- I still got a deal- tach cluster complete 75$, complete tach wiring including the under hood wires 25$- which I will save for my next 69 project (hopefully a sportsroof) Still I will post a pic if someone wants to see the cruise set up. (and I do hope someone says its original- I just was goo goo eyed with all the mustang stuff and didn't do my homework.)

Yep, I just bought a 69 tach cluster w/wiring harness. It had 2 chrome light bezels in the lower metal dash, upper was empty but clearly a factory made hole. The lower hole was the park bezel. This particular car (or dash anyway) also had a "door switch" type switch in the glove box for the map light I think (as well as a locking glove box lock.) The old guy that sold it to me said the car had cruise control as well (which I also got but it says ac cruisemaster under the crud so I am guessing that was an aftermarket addon.)

No pics yet...repop panel fit well, lower mounting screws didn't line up but if I gently torqued on the panel just a bit it filt well. Really the only thing about the repop was the area around the gauge is supposed to be argent but the repop is chrome. So after "fixing" several other bezels I just didn't feel like masking it off and painting so I left it chrome. I actually like it and probably won't change it. The black was already done on the repop. Of course it didn't have the ford numbers on the back either. You know they really should make these out of grey or silver plastic so when the chrome goes it doesn't look so bad. I wonder how long before they repop the clock bezel.

Wow- the ups guy brought my new deluxe bezel from Kentucky Mustang :thumbup: The chrome is awesome- I realized that I have never seen what the gauge chrome looked like when it was new.By the time I was old enough to see inside of a mustang the chrome had since I have repaired my standard gauges with the bare metal foil with some success- but DAMNNNNNN. I will try to assemble and install tomorrow and will post up pics.

I used a hot water and simple green mixture- soak for about an hour, rinse, repeat and hang up to dry. (bet the wifey would been ape shi+ crazy if I'd have put them in the dryer) Even the white tag sewn in is nice and clean now (and readable too) Slightly faded but soft and original.

DAMMNNN- I still didn't picture that much damage- wow.

That has got to be China steel at its finest- I woulda lost a bet on that one too, but I am with the last 2 posters- If that is truly what happened you should be able to "reinflate" the tank. (but would I really want a tank that is that flimsy?) I would test for leaks at the seams if you reinflate, and definetely remove from the car before messing with this. Hey you should post a pic- I would like to see this- and I bet others would too.

I did mine with the buckets on- but the molding isn't quite as tight as it should be nor is it perfectly aligned. And it was a bitch to do.

Sweet- reminds me of my vert- found it 9/2010 parked for 27 yrs inside, covered in NOS Ford part boxes (and dust) , 106, 000 miles. The paint on mine was gone- and was primered, 3 flat tires, brakes siezed, and lots of snake skins (no Shelby pun here) real snake skins. I am not scared of snakes but within 5 mins a large (non poisenous snake) was found and relocated but that stopped my reaching into the qtrs, etc to assess for rust. I would love to find a sportsroof to match it (yeah like lightening striking twice in the same spot) but I can dream.

VAmustang is a one man operation with used parts and good prices. I am not sure if he is on this board but he is on VMF (can I say that here?) He is in bedford Virginia, Chris Stage is his name but I don't have his number.

I have the 2 A interior- the sides of the seats are smooth normal looking vinyl, the kiwi part is the center section of the seat (the insert as pakrat has said) The Kiwi part looks like smooth vinyl with heavy wrinkles imprinted in the vinyl (like a texture not just printed) The back seat should be the same. NPD has a pic in their catalog that you can see pretty good.

I don't know- BUT I have an original grill with slight damage, as well as an NOS grill that I personally took out of the Ford box and installed on my car about 3 mos ago. So if anyone is in Western NC (I am about 1 hr south of GSO) and has a repop we can get together, compare, take pics and we can put this issue down for the mustang community. FWIW my grills do seem flat to semi flat black with a hint of charcoaliness. The original is flatter black (but I think thats from the first 14 yrs in the sun) then the car was inside for 27 yrs.

How sure are you that it is indeed the rear glass? Water leaks are notorious for fooling you; if you're not sure- climb inside with a flashlight and have someone take a water hose (barely on) and start at the bottom of the car working up (allow some time before moving to allow water to work its way in) Have the friend mark the location he/she applied the water when you saw it run inside. You could have more than one leak.