dzahm

Any chance you damaged the plastic circuit? I wouldn't think the cvr is bad if other gauges work. I would pull the gauge panel and use a volt meter to check the circuits, you could maybe check output voltage from the cvr (IIRC its 5v- you might double ck that number)

X 10 on the wood block. You will understand and remember this when the first piston comes out; cause it will sound like a gunshot. I would ask the powder guy how he wants them. To powder they would remove them prior to baking. But he might use them as plugs during sandblasting/powdering but remove PRIOR to baking. (thats how I do mine; cause its hard to mask off the bore/bores.) Depends on the powder coater; some might want you to remove the piston/seals. You might want to replace the seals on the front as they are cheap; and brake fluid will f*** up powder/paint/etc.

IF there are studs, still in they will prevent you from lifting one side (they are there to make sure the intake is installed straight down). You might have enough wiggle room but it'll be close. You can remove an intake w/o removing heads/valve covers, I would remove the carb and use those studs to lift straight up, maybe with a friend prying (gently) under the front of the intake, it will prob take a good bit of effort to break it loose- once the rtv looses its grip it'll pop right off. If you don't have a friend, or aren't strong enough to pop it loose you could use a cherry picker/engine hoist (again lifting straight up)

Doesn't look like any bracket on my 69 metuchen F code vert. It does look suspiciously like a timing pointer though.

Did not know there was different glass for coupe/convert. Ya learn something new here everyday.

Yes you need the rear coupe glass when you switch over. 2. Be aware the 70 rear glass is glue in. When I bought mine I passed on the rear thinking it was wrong (got mine used) Only later did I discover I needed the rear glass and it is indeed glue in style (never had the rear fail though) I used 69 regulators FWIW

Are these new parts (we don't know if they fit) or prev installed parts that we know fit? If known to fit, I would say it has to be the oil pump shaft isn't seated properly.

I ran into this as well. My distributor/shaft/oil pump were original and known to fit, I just couldn't get it to drop. I resorted to tapping the dist base with a hammer; trying to keep it lined up, not to be off one tooth etc. I knew it was a bad idea, my buddy walks in after several hours of struggling, he reached into the car, bumped the starter (I was about to totally lose it thinking I was gonna lose TDC) and the distributor dropped into place by itself, not even one tooth off. YMMV, but thought I'd share.

I helped the body man install my door skin. He used a hammer with dolly on the outside of the skin. He did this in small increments, working around the skin, going around maybe 1/2 dozen times. He did hammer the corners slightly faster than the rest so as to "lock" the skin in place. When completed you should mount the door to the car as the door shell may deform slightly and need slight tweaking to line up perfectly with the qtr panel and fender.

These plug-n-play? or do I need to cut wires/pull wires? I want a trunk lite but since my wires are original (and working) I won't cut just for this. Now if it is plug-n-play.............I am gonna look at the autofair for one.

Anyone here going? I am heading up Friday, stang not going. I heard that one of the 2 places for the 50th anniversary Mustang party is at the Speedway so it might be good to scout out the area in anticipation of what is to come. (the other is Las Vegas Mtr Speedway) BTW- you can get 2$ off admission to the autofair if you grab a coupon at Food Lion

Can't help on the noise but DAMN....... Were you nervous sticking your hand up near the flywheel while it was running?

So I stripped my (69) HL switch retainer (damnit) then discovered they are not repopped yet. Went through several tries to find one, finally got one used coming from Old Dominion Mustang (thanks guys). So I showed the part to a machinist friend, he thinks he can make it pretty easy, BUT one is expensive, a run of say 500 isn't that much more (relatively speaking). I am considering having a pile made, as I might strip the next one, and I know I am not the only one to go through this. These would be for sale; comparable in price to the repopped 65-68 ones, and we realize they would sell slowly over 20 yrs so not a great money maker. Mainly pocket money for the machinist, and a good repop for all us 69 owners. So I have several questions for the group. 1. Mild steel, aluminum, and brass are possible materials- any preference? 2. What is the plastic insert for? electrical insulation? or is it merely rattle control? (inside the retainer where the "shaft" travels) 3. Would lack of chrome plating be an issue for the average stang owner? 4. Machinist says he can make the center "cross" area slotted (for a screwdriver instead of the damn little tool that many don't have, and which might actually help you strip it out). 5. Anyone know if the 70 is the same, or 71-73?

For durability try a piece of leather. Use an old glove, or piece of a shoe/leather jacket; whatever you got. When the leather soaks up some oil it should remain soft and pliable for years.

Stamped on the tire, treadwear is a numeric designation that tells you how soft or hard the compound is. Higher numbers last longer but don't have good traction and low numbers grip better but wear faster. Think about a pencil eraser- new its soft and will tear a hole in paper if you try, when its old its hard and doesn't grip the paper well.

Yaaa- so I should be good by 2019. Haha

I think its like copying an audio CD. Its not "right", but many do it; you just don't post that up to the internet. Ford might be watching (and I hear they aren't too cool about copyrighted stuff) I want a copy of the manual too- so I hope it does get posted. Just thinkin the person w/the manual maybe a little scared of "sharing" with 1000 people. (Pak- could it be set up so only "trusted" users can "see" it?) Like you have to have 200 posts and be here 1 yr or similar? Or forward via email outside the site so each person shares the risk?

I got mine last summer from MU, which at the time was the best deal. I didn't get the tires (BFG) and then found out about a shortage of BFG in 235/15, so I shoulda had those installed by MU. I did find a set locally but paid more as the local store knew I couldn't get them elsewhere. Not sure if there still is a shortage but thought I'd give you a heads up if you do go with BFG tires. FWIW I like my BFG tires; but I drive my car (as opposed to autocross etc)

Its not cut on an angle but molded at an angle. (think shoebox lid but with the "lip" at a 45*not a 90*) I guess you could glue pieces onto the flat. I will see if the lens will show up in a picture

Can't cut a piece of plexiglass as the edges are beveled (maybe a 45* angle that encompasses the front of the clock.) Hard to describe- and my clock is reassembled- If anyone finds a source please post it, or even a solution. I hope the yellow will come out- but the best I could do was a slight improvement (really not worth the effort and risk of ruining the clock) It it slightly noticeable now- BUT at night it restricts light and is very dim compared to the other gauges (and thats with 5x led bulbs) FWIW- I tried all the plastic polishes incl: meguirs, 3M, and duragloss, then moved to sanding with 2000 grit, then polishing again. edit: thickness of the lens is approx the same as the other gauges lenses.

I have a square clock that the lens has yellowed. I too removed the lens, I sanded, polished etc to no avail. I don't believe there is a repop, as I tried for months to find one. I couldn't find one used either, as these clocks are very rare (compared to say a tach cluster or fold down rear seat) Not as rare as cruise control- still be careful or you'll have a broken square clock. I did get mine working though. I am not sure but maybe torinos had the square clock and the 71-73's clock looks close so maybe a source for parts???

Oh yeah one more sneaky little thing. You might have a ground strap that is nearly hidden (mine is firewall to passenger rear cyl head) Don't forget that or you'll be buying a new one.

attach to intake bolts/head bolts/ or exhaust manifold bolts. Good sturdy bolts (nothing like a 1/4 bolt or water pump bolt.) Generally a cross pattern (like left rear and right front if you use 1 chain and 2 bolts.) if 4 bolts/2 chains then you hook at all 4 corners. This is common sense but DO NOT GET UNDER THE MOTOR NO MATTER WHAT (while on the lift) I have seen lifts tipp over, seals fail etc. You can then set the motor down (an old tire works great) for further disassembly

Very simple to remove- disconnect everything and pull. That said theres 2 tricks that aren't real obvious. 1 Remove radiator- you'll think you can get the motor out without taking this out (maybe you can) but I have seen many radiators punctured due to this. 2. Drain tranny fluid- you will drain this before you pull motor or WHILE you're pulling it out (as in it will run out the back, all over the floor/firewall etc)

Try here http://the-lost-car-registry.com/cars.php You might also try the Vintage Mustang Forum (not specific to 69's but more users I think.) Good luck- I hope you find it.