Jan

Thank you for a promt reply, realy impresive concidering the thread is 5 years old. My red/light blue wire is the one going to the ignition switch. However it is only hot during cranking which I presume is correct. Now I can connect everything knowing it's correct. Thanks a million for your help. Out of interst are you happy with the UsShift controller? Is the gearbox a 4R70W? Thanks again.

I am in the same situation as you jgkurz. My harness has Red/Dark Blue Strip and Red/Light Blue Strip wires. How do you differensiate between 32B and 32A?

Hi Mystang I am on the same mission as you, trying to get my car to handle well and not wonder all over the road. I have done the UCA drop and the roller spring perch and I didn't notice any substantial improvement. What did make a huge difference was installing a strut suspension and rack and pinion steering. The main problem with the Mustang front suspension is that the scrub radius is too big and not enough caster. The picture below is Fatman's strut, http://www.fatmanfab.com/product/1964-½-1966-ford-mustang-strut-ifs-conversion-kit However I made my own with BC coilovers for Volvo V70 (I live in Sweden), I kept the lower control arms and strut rods. All I did was to fabricate a bracket to attach the coilovers to the original spindle and bolted it to shock tower using the original holes. I did remove the guide plate spot welded underneath the shock tower. I am running Wilwood brakes so I was able to use the holes for the original brake callipers to secure the bracket. Another advantage is the ease of adjusting ride hight. This modification decreased the scrub radius from about 80mm to 40mm. I can highly recommend this mod. Another and easier way of decreasing the scrub radius is to use a wheel with more back spacing. Although I now can sit and drive with one hand on the steering I am not yet satisfied so this winter I am installing a IRS from a 2015 Mustang. I am not giving up until my Mustang drives like a modern car. If you are lowering the UCA make sure you move them back as far as possible to increase caster at the same time. Good luck

Listen to aslanefe He's spot on.

If you don't have the low profile tranny from MDL I suggest you modify it whilst it out of the car. You wont be able to get the right driveline angles otherwise. The tranny needs to to come upp well under the floor to eliminate vibrations. I have learned this the hard way.

Try everything to salvage the original carpet and I mean everything. You will be dissapointed with any aftermarket brand.

G'day bigmal, I am certain you can get a better door fit. You need to start adjusting the hinges so that you get the rear of the door to line up. Then go on to adjusting the front of the door. In your case I would move the door out at the top hinge so you get the rear good. Then you can move the front in or out equally (both hinges) so it lines up down at the rocker panel. Next thing you have to do is the adjust the mud guard (fender) so it lines up with the door front. You will now probably have to move the bonnet (hood) to the left as you now have a bigger gap there and possibly the front of the guard to obtain parallel gaps. The glass can be adjusted as follows: The whole glass can be moved back and forth with the nut at the front of the scissors (rear bolt loose). The glass can be tilted up and down by moving the bolt holding the rear of the scissors up or down. Then you have the tilt as explained earlier. Another adjustment is also possible and that is to move the quarter window back and forth a little to get the rubber flush. (less noise) It's not difficult as someone pointed out but is does take patience. Hope this helps and good luck.

I have now changed the initial timing to 19° and I can now cruise in 5th gear at 1500 rpm without too much surge/bucking. I also got back a little of the V8 rumble sound that I was missing. I will continue adjusting the EFI to try to improve the situation further.

I am running 1:6 rocker and 13° initial timing. I first had a Quick Fuel 780 carb before the EFI and it was just as difficult to drive at low rpm:s then. As I won't be changing the cam before winter I will play around with timing and settings in the EFI. The only "hard" setting I do with the timing is the initial setting, the distributor is locked and the EFI controls the rest. Thanks for the suggestions.

I have a question for the cam gurus out there. In my 69 Mustang sportsroof I've got a newly built engine that I am not entirely satisfied with. Here are the build specs: Ford 351W stroked to 408 84 block Compression 10:1 AFR 185 Renegrade 20 degree Edlebrock RPM Air Gap intake FiTech Go EFI TKO 600 5speed transmission 3.89 gears Tire size 245/50-16 Cam Howards 222735-12 (Hydraulic Roller) It puts out around 500hp and just as much torque which is all well. My problem is that it difficult to drive “smoothly” under say 1800 rpm. It's very jerky and annoying driving around in city traffic. It's obvious that the cam is too wild for me and that I will have to replace it. I have given all my engine details to Howards and they recommended 220325-12. My engine builder now recommends 222745-12. It would be good to hear from anyone with a 408W what your experiences are with different cams. (comparing cams with a smaller engine displacement will not be relevant) Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I want to get it right this time as I don't want to change cams a third time. Thanks

The hose is mounted the wrong way around. You shouldn't have that bend on the pipe. Also note that the hoses differ from left and right side. They are marked L and R.

Mine was like that too. I cut the bottom of the plug.

At last I found a good picture of the vent. I have tried to find someone that sells these vents/grills without success. NPD usually has everything but not this piece.

This will definitely work, and at the same time prevent water entering the trunk. Fvike, the trunk also gets pressurised which presses air forward over the rear wheel well towards the b-post and escaping outside of the rubber door gasket. This location is fairly well protected from the elements and together with the “grill†prevents water entering. Barnett468, opening the rear vent windows is the same thing as opening the door window = noise. When you think about it the only provision Ford make for air escape in 69 was the rubber “check valve†on the trunk drops just under Roger’s pipe.

For me it feels like the pressure rise works like a parachute putting increased drag on the car. I found a pic of Allan Moffats 69 Trans Am Mustang which has two openings just in front of the deck lid which I presume is to release pressure. Also note the two bars holding the rear window in place. Anyway I think I will make the opening in the b-post as next winters project.

I found this pic on the web, not too good but shows the opening. Here's a link showing to the vent grill. http://www.eddiemotorsports.com/product/interior-parts/1970-1973-mustang-door-vents-prmachined-finish/ so you know what I am refering to. Thinking about making this opening to release pressure.

The problem is not getting the air in, it is getting it out. There is actually no way air can escape. I presume that's why the vent was introduced in 70.

Hi, When driving my 69 Sportsoof the air pressure in the cockpit builds up. This is quite annoying and the only thing to do is to open the window a bit. This is acceptable at low speeds but quite noisy at highway speeds. I believe the 70 model has a “vent†at the bottom of the b-post on each side to let air escape. I was wondering if anyone has done this mod on a 69 and what the result was. Thanks

I am also currently installing an MSD box and distributor. I have relocated the battery to the trunk. I have mounted the MSD box together with the control unit for the electric fan on the battery tray. Then I have built a steel box the same size as the battery on top of which I will put a fake battery top. I will have battery leads on the “battery†so it will take a very trained eye to see its all fake. I also have holes on the back side of the box and in the front for ventilation.

I have friend that's mounted his inside the tank for quiter operation.

The opening is to the rear of the car. You can’t actually install them the wrong way as there’s a cylindrical extrusion on the piece that’s glued to the glass and a corresponding indent (hole) on the c-clips. The c-clips are the same for both right and left hand side, note though that the bent channels that they glide on are not. They are marked at the base with LH and RH.

Go for it, but make sure you adjust the spoiler so that air passing over the car presses the deck lid DOWN thus giving more traction on the rear wheels as intended. You see a lot of installations where the spoiler actually lifts the deck lid, looks really bad!

A tip when working the cover over the bun is to put some thin plastic around the bun. This will enable the cover to slip over the bun will less friction. (You can leave the plastic under the cover) Good luck.