Tripdawg

This question is somewhat on the same page as this thread. I recently bought Sylvania HI and LO beam headlights to replace the way too dim GE brand. I am finding it really hard to fit the headlight in the bucket and get the retaining ring over the headlight. I have already broken the weld on one of the retaining rings. It looks like the guides on the back of the headlights are bigger than the ones on the GE brand. Has anyone had similar issues? If so what was there a fix if any? Maybe patience and a steady hand?..........A couple beers and a little luck?......

Here is the finished product. Inner workings of the cluster painted metallic silver. NPD 2X LED Kit - Part Number 13464-3AK White Gauges from White Gauges.net http://whitegauges.net/products/1969%252d1970-Ford-Mustang-White-Face-Gauges.html

The LEDs I bought were out of the NPD catalog, the single LED bulbs for like $25. What I have ended up doing was painting the inside of the gauge cluster a metallic silver and switching to white face gauges to get the brightness I wanted. I think I am pleased with the overall look but come to think of it I spent just as much now as I would have had on the 5X LEDs. I do have white guages now, which look pretty good in daylight. I think I will steer away from trying to fabricate the dim feature once given by the Rheostat. I do appreciate the feedback though on how to possible make it work. I meant to take a picture of the cluster lit up by the LEDs with black gauge faces no metallic paint on the inside, after the paint, and finally with the white gauge faces. I forgot though and now have to just take one of the finished product. I will try and get a pic and post for whomever is interested.

Thanks for the responses guys. I can understand why getting the rheostat to work is not trivial. I guess the manufacturer of the LEDs would have included a cheap fix if it was that easy. I seem to remember seeing a picture of the other bulbs and it did look like the bulbs actually had circuitry built in. I am sure that I can live with the brightness that the white gauge covers might create. And I can always buy the more expensive bulbs later down the road. Thanks again. Maybe Ill try to take some before and after pics for guys that may be thinking of doing the same.

I recently converted my old gauge cluster bulbs to LED, which I do like by the way. However, i decided to save some money by buying the cheaper bulbs that to not dim with the rheostat (its either fully power or off). I have now decided to change the gauges to a white face by buying the gauge covers. I am afraid though that they might be too bright and having a dim capability may be wanted. Has anyone converted to the blue LEDs and white gauge faces? Were they too bright? Or, has anyone figured out how to rig the rheostat to work with the regular LEDs? Maybe there is an electrical engineer in the forum that would like to tackle that one for us. Thanks.

Bought a conversion kit from auto zone today. Came with 3 cans of high mileage 134a (134a plus oil) and the adapter fittings. System had pressure, so i figured leaks had to be at a minimum. I put 3 cans of the stuff in and the AC blew cold! Woohoo! I had to engage the compressor clutch manually but I think that is a separate electrical issue. I guess time will tell if the system holds up with 134a. Thanks for the help guys.

Thanks for all the great info. I will get to working on it. Hopfully its just a lack of freon issue or a easy to fix leak.

I have this exact same slop in the wheel. I checked it out this weekend and the Pittman arm moves in sync with the steering wheel ruling out the box for the most part. Most of the play seemed to be coming from where the Pittman arms ties in to the PS valve. Mine has a rubber seal,clamp, and grease point for this connection. I pumped some grease in there as it felt empty. I noticed no real change in the steering. Anyone have any experience alleviating the play from the Pittman Arm and PS valve?

I recently purchased a 69 fastback A/C car with a 351w. I am not too familiar with working on A/C units and was wondering what advice would be given to get this thing serviced and up and working again (or at least attempt to). Everything appears to be factory stock and I assume it still has R12 in it. The blower motor also makes quite a bit of noise when on. Any help is appreciated.