TheMenace

This is the drivers side rear 1/4 panel. there was a dent in it and the body guy decided to fill in the dent with bondo rather than bang the dent out. he also tried to make the curve for the wheel well area and it is all wavy and crooked. I am cutting both rear 1/4s out and replacing the skins.

In these pics you can see the rear valance. I took the lip that hangs down at the end and bent it inward. i did this so that when you wash/wax the car that spot doesnt collect any dirt or other stuff. I had to replace the lip in the rear where rear window molding goes into. which i was back there i welded the panel between the trunk and rear window. i am going to flatten that out and make it look seemless one i am done. In the rear taillight extensions i made a bracket that the extension sits on. i drilled holes on every 1 inch on the extension itself. when i go to mount the extensions i am going to inject the holes with metal filler and when it dries i am going to remove the seem where the extension meets the 1/4 panel. I am going to also remove the seem where the front headlight buckets mount but i havent gotten up to that yet so i have no game plan.

old hood needed to go, to much rust. got this one off a coworker. he had a small circular hole cut in the middle hidden under the hood scoop. i got a shaker hole te mplate and cut out the shape, patched the holes where the turn signals went and then smoothed out everything. it is still sitting like this but its ready for primer now

Sequential LED module soldered up. i got a universal one for 50 and wired each taillight up the same way, except the directions they blink sequentially. the kit had a problem where it would reset itself when i had the brakes pressed and turns on so i had to bypass the brake harness part of the module. easy fix and worked perfectly.

taillight housing. stripped, primed, new seals and sequential LEDs installed.

Doors didnt need as much work as the floors thankfully. have to finish welding in the brackets to hold the actuator in tomorrow and then strip the other side of the door, give it a coat of primer and weld on the door skin.

door skin removed, patches in the corners and primed. getting ready to weld in the power lock actuators.

Need to make room in the garage so any offer I will consider. Giving it a few days here before it goes up on eBay.

I have a complete setup for a 69 mustang front disc setup. Everything you will need to convert from drum to disc. Here is what I have: Both front disc spindles Original caliper mounting brackets 2 new calipers 2 new rotors New set of pads New brake line hoses New dust shields New caliper brackets/shields If anyone has a set of 69 mustang drum spindles and is interested in this let me know I can take a few bucks off if you do spindles + cash.

I am starting to piece together my swap. Here is what I have so far: - 1990 world class t5 - 1990 bell housing, block plate, clutch for and cover - 1990 fly wheel (can I use this?) I am under the impression it's a 50oz one and is no good for my 351w - 1969 complete pedal assembly including power brake pedal I was thinking about getting the King Cobra clutch/pressure plate setup. My engine has 450 hp and torque, will this clutch hold up? What do I do about a shifter? I am installing a 2006 mustang center console and I want to have it look like the 06 does, with the shift knob a little above the console plate. I am not looking for an era looking shifter. Would I be able to use a stock t5 shifter or one of those cheap eBay setups? I am converting to hydrolic clutch, the pedal assembly I have comes with all new clutch pedal bushings and return/assist springs. Would it be ok if i left the spring in the pedal or would it conflicts with the hydrolic setup somehow? Any advice will help out a lot.

new floors in

more floor pics. between the fiberglass, rivets and screws i am surprised the floors stayed in as long as they did.

Heres what the floors looked like

Just pulled into the shop

This car started out as my fathers and mine. We worked on it together before he was diagnosed with cancer. he had a friend of his do all the body and metal work and we would do the mechanical work. his friend finished the body work and the car was ready for paint but my father got sick and passed away. his friend said he wasnt going to finish the car bc "the deal died with your father". So the car sat for years and as time went on i would tinker a little here and there on it but never really got deep into it. i got engaged and my fiance knew a guy that owned a body shop (Mike). i talked to him and told him the story about the old body guy. Mike told me he would let me bring car in and finish all the body work myself. that week we towed the car in and i began to work on it. As i got the car on the lift i started to notice a lot of hacking done by my fathers friend. the more and more i dug into it i found out that he did a HORRIBLE job on everything. i decided at that point to strip the car of all the primer he used and bring it down to bare metal. as i was stripping it i found out that he didnt replace any of the metal that was rusted, he simply fiberglassed over it and used bondo to cover the seams where the fiberglass and rust met. there was a dent on the quarter panel, he didnt bother pulling the dent out, just filled it in with bondo and smoothed it out. after a few weeks in i gutted the complete car, stripped the car of all the primer/bondo that was on it, replaced both floor pans and about to get some epoxy primer on the floors and undercarriage this week. I will post pics as much as i can, since this is my first build i am always forgetting to stop what i am doing and take progress pics.

I am begining my t5 conversion and looking for a clutch pedal assembly

I can get some this weekend. Give me your email address so I can send them to you.

In decent shape. Insert for automatic shifter assembly. Has some cracks in it but in places not screen. 200 plus shipping

Lol this turned into a advertising thread. I feel like one of those stands in the mall when they try to sell you things everytime you walk past them. They are like "are you human?" oh you are? Come here you have to try this new scented neck heating pad it's one of a kind!

I didn't have to remove it I choose to. The previous owner did a hack job on the metal work so after I replaced the floor pans I decided I wanted EVERYTHING he did removed, including prime, por15 and paint from anything he touched. I have to admit that stuff stuck to the metal really good. I am over 10 hours in and I am still not done. I am using a speed demon stripping wheel. If I had to do it all over again I would have just left it at this point lol.

you are right about the SPI being all over the internet. i asked everyone in the shop that the car is in and they never heard of it and keep telling me to use etching. i made a good story up that i already bought the stuff and its a no return policy so i have to either use it for loose it and since its over 300 i plan on using it lol (i didnt get ripped off, i know SPI is a lot cheaper but i just made that price up so its more believable that i HAVE to use it). they left the topic alone and then moved on to spraying bedliner on top of that lol.

i am considering selling my front disc setup. my car was an original disc brake car so i just replaced all the original stuff with new stuff. if you are interested in buying my setup PM me. only mod you will have to do is get a disc spindle. they can be found on ebay for about 50-70 each.

Ok I decided since that seems to be what everyone else is doing, I am placing an order for some SPI epoxy primer. Does it matter which color I order? I read that this stuff could even be sprayed on engines so I will use this for the floors, engine and engine compartment. The engine compartment will be flat black and the engine will be a metallic gray. Should I get the gray primer or black?!

I know this is probably WAYY overkill but i have all this stuff at my disposal. I called Zero Rust and asked them if I could spray etching primer onto their product and they said yes. What if I treated the bare metal with Zero Rust, scuffed it and put a few layers of etching primer then spray some bed liner ontop of that. I also have dynomat so that will be going directly ontop of all that. Other than the few cans of zero rust I have to buy I already have everything else for free. If all of this is still not as good as a few coats of epoxy primer than I will just suck it up and buy it.

Lol that stuff is no joke. I had it on my hands for over a week when I used it. I just had to sand all that off the car now to get it where it is. All the PO did was paint that stuff on the whole floor ontop of the rust and everything so for the past few days i have been stripping that stuff off. Not a big fan of it anymore haha. Just got off the phone with a friend and he is willing to give me a few gallons of his etching primer he has laying around. Would this be good to you? The price is right, free lol but i am willing to pay for epoxy if it's better for my car. He also recommended to put naval jelly on all the old metal i stripped down and then spray the etching primer over everything at once. This a good idea?