ruger1

Thanks guys. I've gotten most of the parts I need. I was hoping to do an updated suspension but I think for now I'll just get the body done and then decide. My wife got me a Hypertherm 45 plasma cutter as an early fathers day gift to spark (pun intended) me getting back at it. The last year or so we have followed other interest with a cover over the car, now it's time to get it going or get it gone. Mike we're right between Rochester and Syracuse.

[ATTACH][ATTACH]11469[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]11470[/ATTACH][/ATTACH] Getting back at it!:biggrin:

This may sound crazy but I have a friend that's a dairy farmer who gives some of his animals a little alcohol to calm them down. He uses cheap whiskey with some water and it seems to work. He uses it on hogs before he ships them to the slaughter house or cows so they aren't so jumpy. Sounds like she's a beef cow and you may just have to do the squeeze chute or corner gate method. Good luck!

Yes, if the calf won't or can't suck, you will have to milk the cow to relieve the pressure and prevent mastitis.

You can just keep feeding with milk replacer or milk the cow and feed the calf that way. Dairy calves we just give milk replacer. If its a beef cow you'll want to get the calf sucking and keep it on the cow for awhile if at all posible.

It's been slow progress with life going on all around the car. I bought a welder, air compressor and body panels, now to try and find to use them. I built a body cart out of a compact tractor shipping crate and working on a rotisserie out of another crate and a wagon reach. Which is good practice for my welding skills. I spoke to a friend yesterday that finished his 1930 Ford coupe after 8 years, he said patience is a plus.

Alright, Buckeye, I give up! The level of excellence you have brought here to this forum is amazing, the ultimate perfectionist. Thanks again for all your hard work.

Thanks a lot Buckeye. You're a real big help to us all.

Thanks a lot Buckeye. You're a real big help to us all.

I've spent the winter compiling parts and now I have a few questions before I start to install them. #1) What size holes are you guys making to weld your floor pans and sheet metal back together? #2) What is the best way (fastest) to punch the holes? #3) What spacing are you using between welds? Thank you in advance.

I've spent the winter compiling parts and now I have a few questions before I start to install them. #1) What size holes are you guys making to weld your floor pans and sheet metal back together? #2) What is the best way (fastest) to punch the holes? #3) What spacing are you using between welds? Thank you in advance.

You may also check out www.mannsmotorsports.com the home of Fastags. Jared makes a setup for motorcycles that flips the licence plate down so it can't be read. Now I know it would be different on the front of a car but the principal should still be the same. The car type usually has a motor (too bulky) and a cross shaft run to both sides. Not to say you could modify one to work. It may be worth an email or call to him, being a small company, it may just be a new product for him to develope. If needed I can stop and see him.

Amen Pak. I think there a very few of us with the expendable cash and time to restore a car the way we dream it should be. I just turned 45 and have had a lot of nice cars along the way. Over the years my 69 FB, 70 coupe, 66 coupe & 65 FB all got sold to help pay medical bills. I had an awesome 65 Dodge Cornet I sold to help buy our farm. Now our current 69 FB will be sold as soon as it's done to pay more medical bills. So why do we ride this never ending roller coaster? I guess it's kind of a love sickness for classic cars with no cure. The old saying "It's better to have loved and lost, than to have never loved at all" is the best way I can put it. Like Pak, I view this forum often for the inspiration to keep focus and inspiration. The talent level in this forum is priceless. One of the best parts of owning and restoring a classic Mustang (or other classic for that matter) is the friends you develope along the way. Another cliche "It's not the destination that is important, but the journey" and sometime we forget to enjoy the journey as much as we should.

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to all. We had a great Christmas with everyone healthy, happy and together. My Mother-in-Law got me a couple of good books on FE engines to help demystify the ones I'm finding and my wife got me some bigger jack stands a HD engine stand for the new motor (for our anniversary 12/24).

The firewall only has a small amount of rust above the drivers floor. Plus I'll be replacing the fender aprons due to tear out of the hinge area. I really want this to turn out well. And with my past experience of body work (20 years ago), the new parts availible and above all, the wealth of knowledge found here, there's no reason to do it half way. The best group of car guys around!

Thanks FRH & Buckeye. Both of my front boxes are good. I just have never done this much metal work with replacement parts and didn't know if I'll be destoying anything else as I replace the firewall and floor when I cut them out. The frame rails and cross rail look in very good shape also. In the grand scheme of things, the metal is rather cheap (even the best metal) as opposed to the hours of fabricating like we used to do years ago. I guess I'll wait and see when it's apart. Thanks again.

I've been acquiring parts slowly as money will allow. I have the complete floor pan and firewall already. My question is, even though the torque boxes look okay, should I, or do I need to replace them while I'm replacing the floor and firewall? I haven't started to cut things apart yet because I want to have all the parts I need ready at hand. The rear torque boxes are good but I was told I will have to replace the tops anyway. Also what other parts should I plan to have on hand when I start? Thanks in advance, Dan

I like it. Even with the primer it's one cool coupe. Just has an attitude about it with the way it sits. And ditto on the four speed.

We're in the middle of harvest season right now so I haven't had time to pick up the motor yet. We have agreed to set the price after I get it, tear it down and examine it closer. Dick is real cool older car guy (former Pontiac drag racer) and wants the motor to be used in something. It's not a major deal to install it. My car already had the towers reinforced for some reason, but we're looking at taking them out and putting a R&C front suspension in it anyway. Thanks everyone for the input and help. Dan

Thanks Sunn Dogg. Everything checks out to be a 428 so far. I'll need to get it apart and then I'll know for sure what it is interally. I just spoke to Dick and he told me not to worry about the price and we'll look at it more next week when I'm down there.

Being a small block guy for years I never learned much on the Ford FE engines. That was untill I joined this forum. Then last month I literally tripped over one coverded up in my customers barn while I was looking at a baler. He told me it was a 428CJ out of a friends pulling truck from years ago and and asked if I was interested in putting it in my Mustang. I wasn't real excited at first, but the more I read and talked to people in the know about 428s the more I figured on switching to a big block. The problem is Dick doesn't know what the value is and neither do I. (we've been deliberating for a month) So far I've seen unassembled engines needing machine work for $750.00 and up. This has the cast iron heads and 4 barrel intake and will need a complete overhaul. I want to fair to him but if it's too much I'll have to stay with my 351C or 302 that I already have. I did get some input from my new friend Ron @ Dearborn Flashback but more input would be great.:helpsmilie: Thanks, Dan

I'll say this for CJ Pony Parts, they always tell me if they have something or not. I do call and speak to a person when I order though. This past weekend I was headed to PA to pick up a lime spreader for a customer and thought I would save the $150.00 and pick up my floor plan at the same time. To my dismay CJ was going to be closed for inventory, but they would leave the parts out for me so I could still get them. I got it with no issues. Then on Monday I saw a weekend special for a $50.00 gift card for $300.00 or more but I was too late and it was for internet ordering only. When I called to order my firewall and seat riser, they gave me a extra 10% off because I missed the special. I used to order all of my mustang parts from Tony Branda. They were usually more money, but they are a wealth of knowledge and sometimes that's priceless so I didn't mind paying more. Then this past spring I ordered parts for my 66 couple @ Branda's and got a girl on the phone with a outright bad attitude. She totally turned me off for ordering there again and then I called CJPP and have good luck since.

Yeah, I know the feeling. I'm collecting parts as I go and it seems like forever with LIFE going on and the car collecting dust. I just keep looking on this forum for inspiration to keep a positive attitude. You won't find a better bunch of people than those here on this forum. I just picked up my floor pan @ CJ Pony Parts this weekend and they sent me the new firewall and seat riser yesterday. It's pay as I go and I won't start at it again till all the parts are here. Keep the faith and good luck! Dan

CJ Pony parts has them.

My Mach 1 scoop is 1/4" like you stated. But remember Moffats car was a Boss 302 with no scoop to begin with, so it was an add-on. I would go with the 2" to 3" because you are trying to copy his car and not a Mach 1.