jholmes217

On FE engine heads, one of the holes were the rocker stand bolts go is different, and you will see 2 holes when you look into it. One hole is were the bolt goes, and the other is an oil passage. Many FE guys think too much oil is going to the rockers, so they put a Holley carb jet in that oil passage hole. It is a perfect fit. I have size 70 jets in mine. You will get different answers on what size jet to use. Also, the bolts that are used to secure the rocker shafts are different sizes. 3 per head will be one size, and 1 per head will be different. The different one goes in the hole with the oil passage.

I don't use a gasket with manifolds. I have them resurfaced, then use a thin smear of the high heat RTV.

I think since you already have that Holley carb, you rebuild it and watch the videos another member posted. It is a good carb, but today's ethanol fuel blend will probably require it to be rebuild at least once per year. For a daily driver, if you do replace that carb, I'd recommend the 600 cfm Summit carb another member discussed, or a 1.12 venturi Autolite 4100 carb. These two carbs open at the top, so there are very few gasket surfaces that will leak fuel when the ethanol starts screwing up the gaskets. Also allows jet changes by just taking the top off, so no need to drain fuel and/or remove the carb. Just take the top off and there they are. I wouldn't go with a double pumper, or a carb over 600 cfm.

I got the Scott Drake one. Fits well. Chrome quality could have been a little better in some spots, but the holes did line up. If your shock towers are coming in, you might have to "persuade" it with a rubber mallet to go down in all the way. I got the curved version to ensure distributor and oval air cleaner clearance with my 428.

Call Stan at Ford Powertrain Applications. He does many custom headers for Fords. http://www.fordpowertrain.com/

Yes, post 20. You see what I mean though? Doesn't it look too light?

Not to hijack this thread, but if the green is supposed to be Black Jade, that looks too light of a green color to me. Maybe it's just the light though.

There is also a Monte Carlo Bar that is curved. I use one with a Cobra oval air cleaner with no issues. http://www.cjponyparts.com/monte-carlo-bar-curved-chrome-1967-1970/p/MCB8/

Are the ones in the aluminum valve covers the same as the ones in the steel "Powered By Ford" painted FE covers? If so, I have 3 sets.

If you have roller rockers, you probably won't be able to use them.

I can see that amount for a clean S code. It's a factory big block muscle car, and the prices for the 428 Cobra Jet and definitely the Boss 429s cars are now out of price range of the average Joe. I paid $17,500 for my Q code 428 Mach 1 in 2010, and that was for a car with a 1966 "A scratch" 428 engine block, a tranny that has problems, and in black primer that ran like crap.

It's a Civilian Marksmanship Program Special Grade. Basically a M-1 with a new barrel, new stock, and inspected and refinished everything else. Here's a link to where I got it. http://thecmp.org/cmp_sales/rifle_sales/m1-garand/

I got an M-1 Garand rifle, and a Amazon $50 gift card!

The cam plug at the back goes in opposite way the other plugs go in. Block off the intake manifold heat crossover unless you plan to drive it cold weather. It will help with keeping the carb cool. if using exhaust manifolds instead of headers, don't use gaskets, but use a small amount of high heat gasket sealer. If using headers, use Remflex gaskets. Lots less risk of leaks. When it comes time to drop the motor in, I think it's easier to do it with the headers and tranny attached. You may want to take the master cylinder and brake booster out before hand. Make sure all internal parts and the cylinder walls are very clean before installing. Also, I like to put a magnetic oil pan plug in, and also put a magnet on the end of the oil pump pick-up tube. Helps keep any metal from break in from getting to the oil pump or circulating in the engine.

I have Hooker Super Comps 6114 on my car. I installed the engine with headers and tranny attached. Took about 2 hours with 3 people, but we got it in. I can explain how we did it if you like. I used Remflex gaskets to minimize the chance of header gasket leaks. As other have said, the top front bolts touch the shock towers. If you get a chance to buy or look at a copy of Jay Brown's book titled, "The Great FE Intake Comparo," he also shows dyno test results with different manifolds and headers. It is an excellent book for any FE wrench turner. The Hooker Super Comp 6114 have outstanding torque which is great for a street car, but other headers had better HP at higher RPMs, so a drag car would like those better. http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/6114/10002/-1?gclid=CPfi_Ny159ACFYKHfgodrSMPbw The FPA headers that others mention have good ground clearance, and are a Tri-Y design. Stan is the FPA owner, and his shop is close to me. I've seen his operation, and he has an excellent product. A friend has some of his headers on his 1958 428 powered Ranchero and loves them. http://www.fordpowertrain.com/390428triy.htm Sandersons makes shorty headers, but I have no experience with them https://www.sandersonheaders.com/sanderson-ff393-header-set-fits-ford-fe-engines-in-mustang.html?category_id=76 Hope this helps.

How long is quite a while? I was told by a mechanic friend when I was first turning wrenches in the 1980's to change the antifreeze every three years, and use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. When I bought a Champion radiator made of aluminum about 5 years ago, they also said to add a bottle of Water Wetter coolant additive to the mix also. How much longer until you install the motor?

Contact Faron Rhoads. He has a dizzy recurve business specializing in Fords. Below is a cut and paste from another forum. He can probably clean it really good to look new, and replace anything that needs replaced as part of his service. He doesn't do concurs type restorations though. His business is performance recurves. Hello All , My Name is Faron Rhoads , Been a Ford Guy all My life ( first car a 1962 Falcon ) I am an Aftermarket Auto Parts Tech / Mechanic , and I offer a Distributor Recurving Service , been Recurving all makes and models since 1985 , Looking forward to learning , Helping and contributing ( i also have a 1968 671 Blown 390FE Mustang ) if anyone is interested in recurving or any private discussion my E-mail is TotalPerfEntofPa@aol.com , You can google my name if you doubt my identity ( not a bot ) LOL, I also just spent 6 months working with Blair Patrick , building FE Engines

Question about Champion radiator fitment pop up on here pretty often. Do a search on the forum for Champion radiator, and you will get lots of results. I had good results with a 20 inch on a small block car, but not so good on a big block car with a 24 inch.

Yep. That thing really gets in the way when you have to change brake boosters! Found that out this past summer.

Well unfortunately, the one that was in my car when I bought it in 2010 (don't know if was original or not,) was covered in goo from the old gas that was still in the tank. It didn't have a sock on it, and was badly rusted. It went to the recycle center a couple years ago. Sounds like my best bet is a Scott Drake stainless steel with brass float. CJ Pony parts will probably have a Thanksgiving or Christmas 30% off sale, so I will buy it then. Thanks for the responses.

I'm partial to these two, which I think have the classic look. My Mach 1 horn hasn't worked since I bought the car, and after reading the posts of other members having issues with repro rim blow horn rings(http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php/topic/55514-69-rim-blow-switch/,) I'm leaning towards one of these. http://www.cjponyparts.com/steering-wheel-retro-mustang-3-spoke-wood-15-3-hole-bolt-pattern-brushed/p/STW27/ http://www.ebay.com/itm/201473833598?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I think you forgot to attach pictures Dave.

Yea, with a hot rodded dual quad 428 getting probably 8 mpg at best, I need to know when I'm getting close to empty for real. If I'm out of gas, it's too late!

Who makes the best fuel tank sending unit these days for a 1969? I need a new one, and want one that is pretty accurate and will last with the additives they put in the gas these days.

Check to ensure you have good clean contacts on the coil wires, and make sure the coil wire nuts are tightened down good. That fixed mine when I had a similar issue.