jholmes217

I need a passenger side horn if you still have the horns.

Have you thought about a couple of Mustang cloth patches? Wouldn't have to worry about base making the metal emblems rattle then.

I just checked the Champion web site. The radiator I put in my small block car wasn't the 338 as it was a 20 inch radiator. I tried a 338 in my 428 Cobra Jet car and it as too think to fit in the saddles, so I used the 338 as partial trading material for a FE dual quad intake manifold. Sorry I gave you wrong information earlier.

If I remember correctly, I put one of those in a small block 1969 Mustang I sold in 2013, to fund Mach 1 parts. I had to drill new holes in the radiator to match the holes in the shroud. It was an easy fix, and that radiator worked great.

I have the big block version of this. Probably 750 miles since putting it in to replace a leaky radiator. Fit in the saddles perfectly. I'm running it with a 1969 reproduction fan and clutch, reproduction fan shroud, Edelbrock water pump, and 195 degree thermostat. Stays nice and cool, even in heavy traffic during the summer.

My horn hasn't worked since I bought the car in 2010. It is an original rim blow steering wheel (unknown if it is original to my specific car or not.) I replaced the rim blow switch over the weekend (2nd time. 1st time I ruined the switch!) This time I'm pretty confident I didn't mess up the switch. I scraped or filed all rough spots in the "track" that the switch goes in, then used dish soap to lube it up so it would slide in easier. Push on the switch, and nothing.Now if I take the wheel off and take the screws out of the ends of the wire and touch them to the contact points on the inside of the steering column and push the horn switch, the horns work. So, I thinking either something is missing, or worn down too much to make contact somewhere.Anyone else have this issue and fix it?

Tony, did you fix your horn? I'm having the same issue, and wondering how I should proceed.

I honestly don't know Bill. Lots of differences between 1969 and 1970. For example, the 1970 428 Cobra Jet with manual transmission came with a dual point distributor, and my 1969 came with a single point distributor. If you don't have them already, I advise you get a set of the Ford 1970 shop manuals and wire diagrams. I only have the 1969 set, so I can't check for you. Also, you should join the 428 Cobra Jet registry.

A lot of aftermarket distributors and ignition boxes need a full 12 volts to operate correctly, such as MSD, Petronix 2 and 3, etc. To do this, the resister wire in the ignition had to be bypassed or eliminated. If you don't do this correctly, it can mess up the factory tach, and this may be why you have the problem your facing now. This is why I prefer Mallory Unilite distributors. They don't need 12 volts, and work fine with the resistor wire in place. My original 428 Cobra Jet 4 speed distributor is wrapped up and stored in the garage for safe keeping in case I want to go back to it for a restoration at a later date. For now, I'm enjoying electronic ignition that works with the resister wire, works with the factory tach, and is short enough to work with a oval air cleaner. Disregard the ballast resistor or the right side in the picture. It's disconnected.

I recommend you try a clutch fan set up. I was running a factory shroud, Edelbrock water pump, Robert Shaw 195 thermostat, and a flex fan. My car overheated in a parade. I put a 428 Cobra Jet reproduction clutch fan on, and now it stays nice and cool.

Maybe next year. My Veterans of Foreign Wars Post does this every Labor Day weekend.

Car show in Rainier, WA. on September 2nd hosted by Veterans of Foreign Wars Post 5580. Money raised goes towards veterans in need and the Warrior Transition Battalion on Fort Lewis. Hope to see some of you there!

I personally like the gold stripes better on a black Mach 1. If your selling, see about having the wheels powdered coated in a aluminum or chrome/polished aluminum color. Might be cheaper than buying new wheels.

Don't know if this will work with an MSD, but worked great with a Accell dizzy when I couldn't get an engine to fire. Set it back to top dead center on number 1, then drop the dizzy back in with the rotor pointed at number 1. Now, turn the key on, but don't crank it. Now aim your timing light at the balancer. Turn it slowly until clockwise until your timing light flashes. It should fire from there, and then set the timing. Most books from the day say to set the timing at 6 degrees, but with todays gas, seems 10 degrees or more work better now in my opinion.

I just buy some fuel line hose from your local parts dealer. I used 3/8 hose and cut to fit. They have elbows and adapters if you need it to make a sharp curve or change sizes.

My car didn't have a AC according to the Marti Report. Do you have a non-AC fan with clutch for a non-AC 1969 Cobra Jet? My car did have power steering according to the Marti Report, but for some reason it doesn't now. I get a good work out every time I pull into and out of a parking space. My next task is to track down all the power steering parts I need. Do you have any of those Barnett?

My car is a original Q code 428, so I went with this one. http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/c909fan.html?attribs=88 I bought it at CJ Pony Parts, but I don't think they carry it anymore. You could try Jegs or Summit Racing, and find one that will fit inside your shroud that is similar. My 428 is bored .060, and runs pretty cool now with that clutch fan. In my case, I'm running this engine block as is since it was in the car already bored .060, but with hardly any ridge at the top. This is a 1966 "A scratch" 428 block, so is not original to the car. I honed it, had everything balanced, then rebuilt it in my garage. I will run this block until I find a good date appropriate "C scratch" block for my car so I can drive and enjoy it. I see nothing wrong with running a .060 bored motor if that is what you have. It will tend to run hotter. I would be looking for a new block, as I wouldn't go more than .060, and it's not really a good option to sleeve all eight cylinders. Ceramic coated headers help with the under hood heat too if you don't have them. Good luck getting it down to better temps.

Post a picture that shows your fan. I'm thinking that the fan, and the 160 degree thermostat are the problem. I overheated in a parade from the slow, stop and go traffic last summer. I ditched the flex fan and went with a reproduction clutch fan, and it is much better. It pulls so much air that if you put a sheet of cardboard on the front of the radiator, it sticks. For a test, I had it idle in the garage for 20 minutes so there would be little to no air circulation, and it stayed pretty cool.

Where are you located? If you happen to be close to Fort Lewis, WA., I have a known good Holley 1850 600 cfm carb that I use for engine break ins. It was last used in to a 302 a couple years ago, and seemed pretty dialed in to a mild 302 build. Plugs were that nice light brown color when pulled after break in. If your close, we can try that carb on your engine.

Not being mean or insulting. This is a 69-70 Mustang forum, and you would get much better responses from a Camaro and/or Chevy forum. While I had a 69 SS 396 Camaro for a while, I sold it to get another Mustang. I never worked on it or researched stuff on it enough to gain much knowledge on them. Others on here may have Camaro knowledge, but it is probably the exception rather than the rule. Best of luck to you on getting the car you want.

I like the Remflex gaskets. 2 years now and no leaks. Those headers look similar to the old Super Stock headers used on the 68 Mustangs when they made the debut of the 428 Cobra Jet into drag racing, and caused many MOPAR and GM tears and whines!

What's the gas like there in Italy Paul? Do you have the problems with ethanol in the gas like we do here in the U.S.? What carburetor are you using?

When on the highway, does it sound like the engine is running at a really high RPM, or normal range? When idling, does it have a rough idle or smooth idle?

What has been done to the engine besides headers and carburetor change? What rear end gear ratio does it have, and when doing 55 mph, what RPM does your tachometer say? What transmission does your car have? What diameter pipe is your exhaust?

If the plugs aren't all sooty, and your exhaust doesn't smoke or burn your eyes, then I'd say you have a fuel leak somewhere. Any wet spots under the car when you park it?