LindenBruce

Yeah, unless you have a Thoroughbred class car, you might want to replace the whole switch as apposed to just the cam. Which, yes, can be changed separately. B.

And the switch with cam.

Yep. Here is a pic of the cam that usually fails.

The plastic cam inside under the steering wheel may have been damaged due to age. Pull the wheel and take a look to see what is going on. B.

I went with the big Ford rear drum brakes since I already had the factory front power disc brakes. B.

Well, battery technology has come a long way since the 60's. So batteries today are better than they were back then for sure. The "F" designator is for Ford applications. Ford swapped the terminal positions on the battery to better fit their vehicle back in the day. You can use any say group 27 battery, but you will need to buy a longer cable that's all. Given you are turning over a big block, I would go with as many CCA's as you can get. B.

Also check out clickclickracing.com. Look for a guy named Silverfox. He has valve bodies and all the parts for the transmission. There are other good vendors there as well. B.

Oh yeah, video will be posted. I was hoping to get her running and get her to an exhaust shop before this winter, but I think the exhaust will have to wait to next summer. B.

Well, I would have had the last few pieces to start it months ago if my other vehicle didn't start giving me fits. If all goes well I will buy the radiator next month. Then I think I have everything to start the engine and see if she drives. Since everything has been rebuilt with this project. Excited to hear how she sounds. With those FPA Tri-y's, that aluminum Shelby GT500 Intake, the cam, the port work I did, the roller rockers, and the ignition. I hope she will be a real beast. How are things down under buddy? I did not make it down there this year for Almond harvest. Oh well. B.

I love Barry's book. Very good read for sure. I consulted with him when I was looking for a cam. Can't wait to hear her run soon. Bruce

I have it on a set of dive fins and it is holding up well. Got maybe 70 dives on them. B.

Yes, I love dealing with Bill at Mansfield. He is a great guy and very knowledgeable. B.

I used that same pan on my FE and did not have to remark the dipstick. B.

And so "IT" begins. First the transmission. Heck, it's only a couple more bolts so lets pull the engine. Heck, while we have the covers off the engine, lets put in a cam. Wait, the heck with that, lets pull the heads and do a port match and pocket job. Okay, well, just a few more bolts and lets pull the rotating assembly, get the block bored, new piston and rings and a balance job. While that's being done, lets clean and detail the engine compartment. But wait, lets pull the fenders so we don't have to tape and paint around them. Darn it, while we are here, lets do the Shelby mod. No, wait, lets do a full front suspension Fox Mustang upgrade with rack and pinion steering. LMAO!!! I'm just kidding of course. Or AM I??????? B. LOL

You have to use RTV at the bottom four corners of the intake to ensure a good seal there. I would also use a little RTV around the water jackets on both sides of the intake manifold gaskets. No need for it any where else.

I put my engine in with the headers attached. You have to jack the back of the car up as high as your jack stands will go. Then use the engine leveler and crank the front of the engine up as high as you can. Then she glides right in. You don't want to be installing heads with the block in the car. Not very easy. Besides, then you have to lift and place that intake manifold that's the size of Texas onto the engine. And doing the exhaust is even harder. Just no clearance once the engine is down. You could do it with the engine lifted a few inches I guess. But why fight it. B.

Yes you can only do the rear main with the oil pan off. B.

I would to the main exterior gaskets. Take a good look at the timing chain to see if it needs replacement. Head gaskets are a six of one or half dozen of another thing. The engine only has 11,000 miles on it? Remember, time is harder on things than mileage. If the water jackets look clean and rust free, then I would put money the head gaskets are in great shape as well. Did you do a compression test? B.

Cool. Based on your pic and looking at the welds, I would put money those are factory shock towers. Sometimes non standard parts made their way onto our cars due to supply shortages. This may be the case with your car. Can you tell of the front clip has been changed? B.

It is possible they were added by a PO, but not very likely. The best way to see if they are indigenous to your car is to see if the partial VIN at the top of each tower matches your car's VIN. It will most likely be covered by several layers of paint so you will need to clean that off with paint stripper. B.

Book mark this link as well. While it IS the 428CJ registry, a lot of the 390 stuff is the same. B. https://www.428cobrajet.org/id-fan

Thanks I will get that one next payday then. Even though it is the more expensive one. B.

Okay take a look at this link. Per Bill's listing at Mansfield Mustang it shows a 7 blade fan with a clutch. B. http://mansfieldmustang.com/EngineHBC.html

Can you find a number on it? I know the 428 cars came with either a 6 or 7 blade fan 18.25" diameter with a clutch, IDK about the 390 cars. B.

So which is better? Two 1.25" tube core or three .75" tube core? I like the looks of those Maxcore by ACP. I am in need of a radiator right now in fact. B.