Jump to content

Mister69

Members
  • Content Count

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Mister69

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 09/03/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Here's a photo of the Saginaw pump and bracket on my 69'
  2. Have a look at the bracket for mounting a Saginaw pump on a 351W offered by Tom's bronco parts. Not sure how different the 351C setup is but it might be place to start. Used this kit on my 69FB to get away from noisy Ford pumps and have plenty of pressure at idle when parking. I believe they sell the bracket separately as well. https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/saginaw-power-steering-pump-kit-351-windsor-66-77-early-ford-bronco-new
  3. Used DOT5 in both my cars, the first one 12 years ago. The fluid is still as clean as the day I poured it in. No signs of corrosion.
  4. I'm using a repro pad which has no smell. So it must be the wheel.
  5. +1 on the wheel of stink. I couldn't figure out why hell it stunk so bad. I think I'll try the clear coat trick to try to seal in the stench.
  6. For the guage studs I got a set of these insulators; this is after I tried twice get mine working properly.
  7. If you can, keep and fix your originals. I bought the repros but they were flimsy crap so I polished up my originals and put them back on. The repros look good enough but their so thin they distort just putting them on.
  8. I had the same problem as you describe and checked all the things you did. It was so annoying I was ready get new wires, msd box, etc. All I ended up doing was bringing up the idle speed about 150 rpm (in park) then adjusted the idle mixture and the problem was gone. Smooth idle in drive and no more stalling while warming up.
  9. I had a look at mine and their run above the fuel line. guess you could say they drop down along the motor mount side of the fuel pump.
  10. I bought a set of these repros and I wish I hadn't. The are made of very rigid plastic and ended up breaking them just trying to flex them enough to install them. In the end I cleaned up the pieces I had and found the rest used on eBay. Save your money.
  11. I bought these guage insulators, they worked great: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/69-73-INSTRUMENT-GAUGE-MOUNTING-STUD-PLASTIC-INSULATOR-P2724C3410.aspx
  12. I was looking for the same thing a couple of years ago but I didn't have any luck. What I did was buy one if the new electronic style and swapped covers.
  13. Bought the TMI's and new seat foam buns as well. It was my first time doing upholstery and they turned out great. I admit was a bit of a battle working the skins over the new foam but persistence paid off. Just about needed a blood transfusion from being sliced up by those sharp little hog rings. Don't bother buying the listing wire kit; the wire used to make the rods is way too flimsy. I ended up using heavy gage wire coat hangers and they worked fine. No velcro used anywhere.
  14. I had a couple small frost plug leaks after installing my engine. I dreaded the thought of pulling it out again just to fix something like that. Instead I went to the GM dealer and picked up a package of "Cooling System Seal Tabs". I crushed up one in a glass of water and poured the mix into my radiator. Took the car out for run and the leaks were gone and that was 3 years ago. You add so little of this material that there's no chance of plugging anything up. Give it try.
  15. Even with the vacuum hooked up wrong or disconnected you should still see more advance than 2 degrees. I'd check the mechanical advance to make sure the everything is moving freely.
×
×
  • Create New...