Hoover

Overpriced by X4. Don't see that kind of money in it at all.

Stop drilling, is the name of the above method. An absolute must, in doing any crack repairs. You are probably better off remove and replacing the tower. If nothing else, for peace of mind. Anything structural, I would use a qualified welder so it won't happen again.

The price is up there, $2112.16. Haven't heard of anybody using it. That's up in the rack and pinion price range.

Tightening and retightening of tubing, tends to work harden the material, and it will keep on leaking. Worked plumbing issues off and on at Boeing on the 747 line. After two tries, remove and replace tubing is the best answer.

Go with Grabber Green and get it over with. If you really want black, use it as an accent color. The color is great, and going back to the original color, you are honoring the OPs choice.

Go with Grabber Green and get it over with. If you really want black, use it as an accent color. The color is great, and going back to the original color, you are honoring the OPs choice.

If you are talking about the cover from the grille area to the radiator, National Parts Depot sells them. Thought you might be interested to know. Just trying to be of assistance to a fellow member.

Sounds interesting. Would like to see a dash pad with the stitching contrasting. Keep us posted.

Like your car. Nice job.

For what it's worth, I purchased the SPC control arms from EBay for $205 or so. The steel plate is 5/16ths thick. The ball joint is a 4 bolt available most anywhere. The part that bolts to the shock tower is over an inch thick, and the bolts used are metric 10.9 grade. So it is not a piece of crap. Eilbrach uses the same control arm, as SPC packages it for them. A question was asked, and I provided a link to them. I have no interest or money invested in the company, just a guy trying to update the suspension, and pass the info on to the members here. Guess some don't want to hear it, or have their minds already made up. The ball joint has 3 mounting positions on the plate, 0 camber, -1 camber, and -2 camber. The arm is offset for 2 degrees of caster. Just flip the other arm over for right hand installation. A big L and a big R are embossed into the arm. By the time trying to mickey mouse a set of control arms from some self professed expert, you are spending $410.00 for a quality set. No cutting, no drilling, and no complicated instructions, think that the product speaks for itself.:rockon: By the way, I talked to the chief engineer who designed these control arms, he has 30+ years of aviation engineering and stress analysis background. He has credentials, and that is why I purchased this brand, which has been in business 42 + years, American designed and American made. Okay back to the rant session.

I have these controls with the drop built in. http://www.ultrarev.com/94210-spc.html

Got 70 bolt in glass, and the rear windows need to be from a 70 as well. Purchased my set from a salvage yard, back in the 90s. The prices today have sure gone up for window glass, and you might find regluing to be the way to go. As LindenBruce mentioned modern adhesives have come a long way in 40 years.

Have a 69 with a 302 in a coupe. The car came with an export brace, when I first bought it. Added a Monte Carlo bar, seemed to help in making the front more sturdy. You can always add subframe connectors later. Your wallet will thank you for doing add ons in steps.

I have a 69 mustang coupe that was purchased in 1992. The car came with a hood scoop with turn signal lights, dual mirrors w/driver side remote, GT wheels with GT center caps. Know that it is not a GT since it originally came with a 302 and single exhaust. Also does not have a GT gas cap. I was told that it was a sports appearance group package. See many 69 mustang coupes with the same equipment. So was this a dealer offered package, a Ford promo, or something else?

You can try this site: http://8trackrepaircenter.com/ Have no experience with them however.

Try this listing on EBay. I bought this, but have yet to install it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1969-Ford-Mustang-LED-Tail-Lights-PAIR-Both-left-and-right-side-L-E-D-/261619135385?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1969%7CModel%3AMustang&hash=item3ce9b73399&vxp=mtr

It's better than some rust buckets I've seen. Probably a good project car for somebody. Seen a lot worse.

Bel-Red Mustang in Bellevue, WA. Exit 14A on 405

You might do better to keep it, and when you run into a deal, it can be used as trading or bartering stock. You will probably get more for it in a trade.

A possibility is that the diameter of your fuel line may be too small. When accelerating, the carb needs more fuel to provide the power. A small line cannot supply any extra fuel.

Interesting use of color. Looks great, and different.

Buy all the brackets, and interior window risers. Need to buy both front cause it's longer, and buy the quarter window cause it's narrower. Buy used, and try to get all the windows from the same car, because some windows were clear, and others tinted.

Clean the battery cables, check for loose ground wires, and charge the battery. If it has been sitting awhile it would be a good idea to give it a charge.

http://www.themustangshopaz.com/Products/ClassicMustangs/ClassicMustangs.html The above web site mentions addng an adjustable strut rod will provide additional caster. I don't have their products, so check the link out and go from there.

Great photo, thanks for sharing. Sounds like you had a great day.