miketyler

I bought the LED replacement bulb and works great. These screw in to the receptacle and require no changes. They were cheap, brighter than stock incandescents with a sharp cutoff and didnt affect turn signal flashing. I think I have pics posted here somewhere. I bought the same style LED bulbs for the front and when I installed them they continued to flash ok until I turned on the heaadlights. I tried a cheap solid-state flasher and made no difference. I bought ballasts to restore the flasher load but havent installed them yet. I have pulled the front LEDs till I get ballasts wired in.

That stance is perfect. Good thing to know if you need a predictable 2" drop

Ahhh, I was actually looking for a match on the original teak panels. I have a buyer interested in a restored tach and clock panel but only if they are in the original teak color.

Am kick starting this thread on panel restoration. Wycked - did you identify a good Di Noc pattern number as a match for the Teak you were looking to do your car with? I have someone needing a teak tach panel and was going to recover one of my walnut bezels in Teak. Appreciate any recommendation that any of you can offer

It is a little different and I like the chop but think both taillights and headlights should have been left as-is. The Torino hood seems to be a pretty good fit, I wonder what all had to be done to pull that off? Any underhood pics? Does thaat car have naarrowed rear end and tubs? The rear wheels look insanely deep. Also nice to see your body-color engine bay!

Sweet! Good job!

I think they need to update their images. That link how has a picture of a socket there.

I like the idea of the small foot print PCB but the price is pretty scary. Maybe I will have to think on the hidden radio option. Things are so cramped with all the electronics I already have I am unsure where I could put it unless behind one of the fiberglass panels. @ Wycked69 - Check out Zippos post. I just went over all the specs there for him as he was interested as well.

Good call, you probably saved an hour of fishing the bolts in and probably had better access to get them snugged up. They tuck in so well and close to the block and are a great pain reliever when compared to other cheaper full length models that are beat to fit and hang lower than you might like. No gaskets required, I used the Ultra Blue sealer and no leaks!

I really like the looks of the OEM radio in my car. No cutting, fits right and keeps everything looking original. Danno did a great job of adding pre-outs for a sub, pwr antenna wire, and a slick stealth aux input switch for connecting an iPod or MP3 player. All works great but the low fidelity of the FM radio leaves something to be desired. Static, station drift, and the flat sound shape now has me longing for the Alpine quality audio I have in my other car. I never thought I would be interested in this but Is there an internal stealth radio upgrade solution for our OEM radios?

Yes, I think the difference in the two are the 70 has a locking hub with notches that provide a means for the locking steering wheel. As you mentioned the diameter of the column is different as well. Cosmetically the cross-sectional shape of the 69 is different than the 70. All that aside, I think a 70 could be used on the 69, but not vice versa...at least if you wanted a locking steering wheel.

Yes, I added that and was surprised at how many pieces I had to track down to do the conversion...pricey parts as well. The chrome kit is well worth the money I think.

Thanks, yes we bought the house as a foreclosure and the 4 car detached was the decision maker for us. I found that the space fills up quickly. Here are a few pics of the interior.

Is the 70 model the same? I made the repo fit my car and still have my old one

Heres a few more pics of the car after I finished it

You can buy the nutsert puller tool from Harbor Freight pretty cheap. You can also use a long all-thread steel screw with spin-on nuts and washers in a tight. http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html I'm not sure which fasteners you bought but I would get the steel serrated nutserts. Nutserts are notorious for becoming loose over time and spinning in the hole. I have had to drill out many that were either pulled improperly or were subject to vibration and just rattled loose over time.The serrated units are a little more expensive but have serrations under the head that bite into the surface when you draw them up and they grip well. I will also take an extra step and add a little structural epoxy on a Qtip and bond them in. Last, I make sure they are a firm fit (not loose and rattley) before I pull them.

I would advise you to measure yours before ordering. Chances are that 6.75" will work for you but you should get a square and straight edge to be sure. I do run pretty close clearance on the springs; maybe 1/4 or 5/16" and I did roll my rear fender lips. This isn't a problem for street cruising but if you like taking corners fast this could present issues. For me, I like the look. I have a purple 72 Cuda with the same fat look. In fact, I am running 275's on the front of it. Will try to get some more pics of the Mach 1.

I converted my 70 to shaker and used an Apex brand hood. Was about $350 and worked out great

Found the pic of the botched wheel set. Check out this for a deep dish look...

I found the invoice from 2011 and it looks like they were 17x11 Torque Thurs II's with 6.75" BS on the rears. No spacers needed. Am running the SSBC rear disk kit that didn't affect trac width. On a side note...I remember now ordering them and when I received them the vendor had got the BS backwards. I should have taken pics....those were some DEEP dish wheels with only 4.25" BS. There were promptly exchanged I think there are several threads on here including mine discussing the observations I made during the fitment process. Buenig and a few others have done this as well but and I think were using modern wheel fitment. Most of us went wit the Sumitomo HTRZ summer performance tire. I ordered my rears custom but the fronts were a stock size 17x8 width and were 4.75BS. My fronts are 245-45/17. Adult driven, no rubbing and no spacers. Hope this helps

No mini tub, all stock besides some light malletizing in the lower forward corner of the wheel well. I would have to dig up my paperwork but I believe the rears were 6.75" offset (custom) and the fronts were an off-the-shelf offset for American Racing.

The rears are 315-35/17 and the fronts are 245-40/17. I believe the rear wheel width is 11" and the front is 8.5"

Heres a pretty good how-to on re-pinning the standard plug for tach dash. Also, you can add resistance wire (or a resistor) to retain the ALT light function. Midlife did my conversion but I had to go in and replace the resistance wire with a 1/2watt resistor for 3G alternator. Works great. http://1970mgr.org/_AddTachCluster.htm

That would be my guess as well with the modulator box there in the background.

I'm using Ignitor III with chrome Flamethrower III coil on 351c. So far so good!