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Everything posted by miketyler
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Payment sent, appreciate the deal Mark!
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Hi Mark - I didn't realize you responded. I will take them. Yes I found one! Will try PM'ing you for pmt info
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If they are like me maybe they have a new project? When I first returned to the hobby I bought a 72 Barracuda and spent a LOT of time at www.cuda-challenger.com and had accumulated over 2500 posts there. Since I got the Mustang over 4 years ago I rarely visit there. You might also consider sending an email to those users asking them to come back and check in. I got such an email from www.stangfix.com recently. It was a forum I joined early on but I was in need of technical assistance and found lots of help and offered help where I could but I don't think it has the large membership and many of my posts went ignored so I spent most of my time here and on VMF.
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No worries - I also bought a nifty fused relay block that mounts on the fender well that regulates power to it. Very clean look for cheap. I am running a low profile Spal pusher in between the radiator and the condenser. It is a close fit. You probably already know this but you definitely want to run any electric fan loads thru a relay.
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Yes, thats where I put mine. Works fine there.
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I bought a Daniel Carpenter repo and fits and works great. Have heard a few bad accounts about Rimblow Buddy's repos. There are a couple of eBay dealers that I have seeen sell the DC repo for $80 shipped.
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I did my wheel too and it looks ok but my approach was a little diffferent. I took my best walnut bezel to my paint shop and had them mix two colors, one each of the lightest and darkest wood tone colors in a base coat product. After making the repairs to the wheel I hand grained some of the smooth areas. I then airbrushed the dark tone first then added highlights of the lighter tone. Next, I tinted it with the darker color to add a mid tone and applied it in a few areas. I waited several days for this to cure, then added a wipe-on dark walnut stain that filled the graining. I hand grained a few areas using a dry brush affect. I added the chrome mylar trim, and applied two coats of clear, color sanded, then added two more coats. I think I have about $35 in materials in mine and get lots of compliments on it.
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Also - your mailbox is full Mark
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Mark - are side scoops still available? I thought someone had already bought them
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And dont forget the rubber drip guard. Dont buy the CJP rubber one. Mine isnt a year or two old and is already cracking. Maybe some intertube rubber orr neoprene would be a better material
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And dont forget the rubber drip guard. Dont buy the CJP rubber one. Mine isnt a year or two old and is already cracking. Maybe some intertube rubber orr neoprene would be a better material
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Have u converted your clock to Quartz movement?
miketyler replied to J's69Mach1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
An interesting post from VMF on how to maintain OEM clock and how to "adjust" their accuracy. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/4622290-post13.html -
Have u converted your clock to Quartz movement?
miketyler replied to J's69Mach1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
An interesting post from VMF on how to maintain OEM clock and how to "adjust" their accuracy. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/4622290-post13.html -
Have u converted your clock to Quartz movement?
miketyler replied to J's69Mach1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Where is the adjustment? I was told the clock would "self-adjust" from having the time set back a number of times. And agree on the ease of install. The kit I bought even came with a DVD to demonstrate the conversion process -
Have u converted your clock to Quartz movement?
miketyler replied to J's69Mach1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Where is the adjustment? I was told the clock would "self-adjust" from having the time set back a number of times. And agree on the ease of install. The kit I bought even came with a DVD to demonstrate the conversion process -
Have u converted your clock to Quartz movement?
miketyler replied to J's69Mach1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
I converted the clock in my Cuda to quartz several years ago and have been happy with it. I think the same company (Omicron?) makes kits for many old clocks. I have considered doing this for my 70 as well. It's a working movement but runs fast and doesn't seem to be slowing down after repeatedly rolling back the time. -
Have u converted your clock to Quartz movement?
miketyler replied to J's69Mach1's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
I converted the clock in my Cuda to quartz several years ago and have been happy with it. I think the same company (Omicron?) makes kits for many old clocks. I have considered doing this for my 70 as well. It's a working movement but runs fast and doesn't seem to be slowing down after repeatedly rolling back the time. -
Zip - I also am interested in adding 69 side scoops to my 70. I know rear quarters are different between 69 and 70 cars. Let me know how that goes for you.
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Zip - I also am interested in adding 69 side scoops to my 70. I know rear quarters are different between 69 and 70 cars. Let me know how that goes for you.
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No, just the light malletizing on the foward inside area of the wheel house that you are probably already familiar with. Car does have SSBC rear disc kit but didn't change trac width.
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Sorry, just saw this. From memory, my wheels are 17x11 in rear and 17x8 in the front. Am running 315/35-17 in back and 245/40-17 in front. Front has Shelby drop and 1.5 coils cut from stock springs. Rear springs were dearched 2" and 2" drop block added. The car was dropped 4" but I raised it up 1" by adding rubber spacer up front and swapping 2" block for 1"block. There are other alternatives to get this drop and I plan to re-do it at some point. I would not recommend de-arching springs.
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40 amp to 100 amps alternator for less than 50 bucks
miketyler replied to juit's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
That looks like a great deal. The 3G alternative might be had about as cheap in a junkyard scenario but it wouldnt be new or plug and play as that seems to be. Also, that unit looks more original to the car. -
Maybe there is a "light teak" then as all the cars I have seen with teak woodgrain are much lighter than that.
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I think 17" is ideal and pushes it as far as I would like to venture away fronm the orginal 15". There is a good selection of tire sizes and wheels in 17 but may also be in 18 too. Generally I think 17" may be more universally accepted as the "modernized" norm.
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Fron the pics, I think you have walnut woodgrain. I was only aware of walnut and teak options. Maybe there were three woodgrain options in 69? Its not uncommon to have them mismatched either from panel swaps or variations in fading due to UV exposure or age. I think best way to remedy is to recover the instrument and clock panels with Di Noc provided the doors and console are closer to original color.