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maxum96

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Everything posted by maxum96

  1. Ditto. I run a full roller setup on my engine.
  2. Yes, make sure to buy these brackets. If you don't, the spoiler will only have the trunk lid skin to support it and not the frame of the trunk lid.
  3. I have the NPD rear spoiler. I'm very happy with it. Light, but strong. Very good looking piece.
  4. I call B.S. Galpin Motorsports (aka Galpin Ford) has been/is one of the premier Ford high performance dealers in the country since the 1960's. They have high performance cars in the magazines all the time. You think for a minute they'd trash a 1970 Boss 302 like that?
  5. I hear ya. But on the flip side of the coin, the FPA headers I bought before the Accufab headers didn't fit and I had to send them back. I will say Stan at FPA was easy to deal with for me. But I have heard others have issues with him.
  6. At least I don't need a bottle to go fast! :wheelchair:
  7. I run Competition Engineering's Slide a Link traction bars. They are very similar in appearance and function to the Caltracs. But they have the bushing in the middle and it eliminates a lot of the noise that would normally be transmitted by the Caltrac style bars.
  8. I'm just starting on doing both my quarter panels and that's what I'm planning on doing. I saw pictures on the VMF board where a member that has a body shop welded a patch over the seam. It looked very clean.
  9. Thanks. They were helpful and very easy to deal with.
  10. I'm guessing you have mismatched pulleys from looking at your pics.
  11. I run Accufab headers on my AFR 205's. The headers use the wider bolt pattern. I got the headers plain steel and had them coated after I "adjusted" them for my scatter shield and welded collector rings on them.
  12. Need pictures. Also depending on the year of the 302, you can not use the balancer on the 351. They use a different imbalance.
  13. There was not any superchargers offered from the factory in 1969. But dealers would sell you most anything. And I'd be more than willing to bet that you could have had a supercharger (Paxton's were big then) installed by a dealer back in 1969. Especially high performance Ford dealers like Tasca, Mel Burns, Foulgers, Galpin and others.
  14. 15x8 rims on the front is going not going to allow you to run any wider tire than a 15x7 rim. I run 275/60/15 in the back on my 15x8 Magnums.
  15. Glad you didn't do any real damage. Next time you have that issue installing a distributor, use a oil pump priming tool to slightly turn the oil pump drive. That's what keeps the distributor from seating all the way.
  16. Yes. It's an aftermarket racing fuel cell.
  17. Ditto I run a 1/2" fuel line from a fuel cell to the carb. I use a mixture of aluminum tubing and -8 braided steel lines. I run a Holley electric pump at the fuel cell and have a pressure regulator in the engine compartment. My engine is in the area of 550hp-600hp.
  18. I think it will because you're staying with a small block. But I don't want to swear to it.
  19. FYI, neither Dynacorn nor Goodmark manufacture their parts. They're just middlemen that put their name on the box. The same supplier can make a part that both of them buy, but put their own brand name on.
  20. Motor mounts and starter for sure. You need to use the larger small block flywheel and bellhousing for the 351C. Pulleys from the 289 are not going to work. And that is it. I did this same swap years ago and that was all I could reuse.
  21. That looks like a really poor fitting header. Even if you clearanced the bellhousing, the header is still going to be up against the starter. Not good.
  22. The 351W is taller and wider than the 302.
  23. There is a guy near me that has a 70 with a 69 front sheetmetal. I thought it was a 69 Boss 302 until I saw the 70 tail light panel and column in the car.
  24. I'd have to get a close look at what swages they used on those cables. They look like they might be steel. But I make my own cable lanyards all the time. Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. sell cable by the foot and the swages. I don't have the special swag tool. But by using a dull chisel and hammer I'm able to mimic what the crimp tool does when I swage the ends. Luckily my car is a 70 and they were twist locks whenever I get around to installing them. :)
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