maxum96

All hoods in 1970 (and maybe 1969's too) have the structure underneath with the large holes cut out for the twist locks.

16 mpg sounds about right. If you're wanting more mpg, use a lower gear ratio.

Whatever. I hope that your 351C spins 10,000+ to make any use of your Dominators. Try reading the latest issue of Hot Rod. BES Racing engines built a 609ci pseudo Pontiac Ram Air V (not one piece was factory Pontiac) that was heavily modified and built. Huge tunnel port style heads. It's a high dollar motor. They ran a single Dominator style carb by CFM Performance carbs. It was rated at 1,650 cfm. It spun up to 8,100 rpm and made over 1,200hp. So I'm a little curious as to how you feel your 351C is going to make use of 2100 cfm of carb.

Stan and FPA are well known in the vintage Mustang world. While Stan tends to make a good product, his headers have their share of issues too. I bought a set for my 351W based stroker and one of the tubes was right up against the rear of the oil pan. Stan ended up taking the headers back. I have a set of Accufab headers now.

I have them very straight. With the exception of pro stock drag racers and a few others, how many racers do you see running dual quads? The fastest street cars around are either EFI or single carb. I've been playing with hotrods since the early 80's. Very few dual quad cars I've seen have been impressive performers. Most dual quads setups are for show, not for go. You dual Dominators might impress the kids. It doesn't me. Unless that's sitting on a 800ci mountain motor or you spin 10,000 rpm, you're way over carbed. You could have done this and got the same cfm for a lot less money.

I would suggest a Detroit Tru Trac. Works better than a Trac Lok and has no wear parts. It's what I have in my car behind a approx. 600hp 393W.

You passed. Nice Weber setup. I'm very envious.

In my book, most dual quad setups are only good for the "wow" factor when you popped the hood.

You may have knocked 125lbs off on your motor, but FE's are still heavy. There are tons of different style aftermarket suspensions you can put on your car. A MII frontend is very old school. Much better solutions out there. I run factory style suspension (Global West tubular upper control arms with negative camber, roller spring perches, boxed stock lower control arms and 620lb springs up front. Running an iron block 351W stroker with aluminum head and intake, my car handles pretty damn well if I do say so.

If you can weld or have someone that can, get a truck 9" housing out of the junkyard. They are way beefier and stronger than any car housing. Cut it down to the correct length. Remove the truck spring pad perches and shock mounts. Weld on new heavy duty perches. Weld on new ends to the axle tubes. Reuse the center section, or add gears and Trac Loc, Locker or Tru Trac carrier of your choice. I did it and it was very inexpensive and fairly easy to do. Old on the left and new on the right with added back bracing

The only correct solution to your problem is having a state issued VIN put on your car by either your DMV or the proper state law enforcement agency where you are at. As Midlife pointed out, it's a major no no to mess with a VIN tag no matter what your intent is. Owners of two very valuable muscle cars (vintage Shelby and a big block Camaro) near me found this out a few years back when they did as has been suggested to you. They both had their cars seized for lengthy periods while law enforcement investigated to see if they were stolen or had their identities switched with other cars. Both cars were eventually returned to the owners, with state issued VIN tags. And after both owners paid large towing, storage and legal fees. Contact someone at your DMV. It's not a big deal to get the state VIN tag. Someone on here did it not long ago and found out it was pretty painless.

Where did you get that info? The only factory cars with 31 spline axles that I have ever seen, read or knew about were big block cars (i.e Cobrajets, Boss 429, etc) and Boss 302's. The type of transmission made no difference on the rearend.

The only 69 Torinos that would have had a 429 would have been race only Boss 429 powered race cars. I know they built them for NASCAR. But I'm not aware of any built for drag racing. Starting in 1970 the 429 wedge motor became the top engine for the production Torinos you could buy.

My thought exactly.

It may be a 6 speed, but not worth almost 4 times my 5 speed TKO.

That's a deal at only $7,829! :eek:

If you want something decent out of the hole and don't plan on much highway use, 3.50 gears will be a good choice with a non-OD transmission.

Yes, I put this kit in my car. I ground the tack weld off and punched out my old shaft and welded the new one in. The pedal feels great now that it is riding on roller bearings and not bushings. The roller bearing conversion solves the problem of the worn out sloppy bushings on the clutch pedal.

Get the Scott Drake roller bearing setup for the clutch pedal. It will help solve your problem. It also comes with a replacement shaft too.

Thanks for posting that. But try this link for the 1970 data. You put the 1969 link twice. https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North%20America/US/2013/11/18/1970_Mustang_Data.pdf

Unless it has aftermarket axles. Then all bets are off.

Stay with stock 1.6 ratio. You're asking for problems running a higher ratio rocker.

They should still be on the double steel pieces of the shock tower.

Go to the 4:00 mark in this video and you'll see a great explanation of the Arning/Shelby drop and it's advantages.

It looks the same on 69-70's.