maxum96

Why you would want to go down to a 14" tire? You're extremely limited in the tires available anymore. And depending on what brakes you are running, you could have an issue with the brake caliper hitting the rim if you have disk brakes.

Any header that will fit either a wedge 429 or a 460 for a 1967-1970 Mustang will fit your car.

5000+ rpm dead revving (i.e. no load on the engine) is not good for your engine's life. You sound like you may have an advance issue with your ignition preventing your timing from advancing. Or possibly you have a fuel issue (too lean a mixture or insufficient amount of fuel to the carb under load) that is causing your problem.

I bought a refurbished wiring harnes from Randy (aka Midlife). I was very happy with harness and the great service. You won't be disappointed.

You sure? A buddy of mine ran a rear spoiler on his 70 Mach 1 with 71-73 pedestals. I'm pretty certain that it used the same mounting holes as the 70 version. The only difference was the pedestals were shorter.

I have both. Very happy with both. My rear spoiler and pedestals are from NPD. Their spoiler is beautiful and looks just like the original. Just lighter.

Not interchangeable between a C4 and FMX. No idea on the writing.

Nope. Opening for the Shaker is wider than the Mach 1 scoop.

I have the 90 degree cable which is original for a 70.

That is correct. Actually, all 69-70 doors are the same. The only difference besides the glass would be the hole cut in the front of the door for the wire harness if you had deluxe door panels.

I wish they'd make a plain one for those of us that don't use the clock. Mine has several cracks and the mounting ears are glued back on.

I believe there is only one aftermarket manufacturer of the sport mirrors. I bought a driver's side one and it looks fine.

Heads sprung a leak? From where? Unless a water passage somehow rusted all the way through, your head still should be usable.

Are you using the correct reverse rotation water pump? You can't use a vintage style water pump with that setup.

You can install the mounting brackets and use those as guides to drill the holes. If you really want, call NPD up and ask them to send you a set of directions since his didn't come with them. I'm sure they'll send him a set of directions.

I would not be the least bit surprised if the suspension parts had been replaced by 1985. I bought my first 1970 Mustang in 1985 and the suspension parts were totally worn out. It was not a high mileage car and it had been owned and driven by a housewife. I'd just toss your old parts. They're pretty beat.

Good news, you can use a 1 piece rear main in a block built for a 2 piece seal. Bad news, you have to have the block machined to accept the 1 piece.

Off by 2 cars out of approximately 1359 built. I wasn't too far off. :biggrin:

I'm fairly certain the answer is no. If those items were added, it was done at the dealer.

Correct. All 1969-70 coupe, convertible and fastbacks use the same door. The only difference is the glass between the body styles and the attachment method (glue in or bolt in glass).

I have a 70 fastback. Pretty much the same body as a 69 Mach 1 with some minor differences. That doesn't look like anything I've ever seen on my car and I have mine stripped to the last nut and bolt.

Just rotate the collar on the column below the ignition switch.

While they may bolt on, the crank pulley and water pump pulleys are not the same size between a 302 and a 351C. You will spin the 351C water pump too fast and cavitate the water pump. I ran into this problem when I did the same swap.

No different on the 70's.

You got it backwards, raising the ratio would be like going from 3.50 to 4.11 gears. But when you talk about "taller" gears, you are referring to lower ration. Like going from 4.11 to 3.50. This web page explains it in detail. http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=398/category_id=13/mode=prod/prd398.htm