maxum96

Last stall converter I had was a Hughes. Good price. Worked great. Was an 8" 4,000 rpm stall converter I ran on the street. But there are many other good brands out there. http://www.hughesperformance.com/

Your build is looking good. Your fabrication looks really good. I see you notched your engine crossmember just like I did mine. I only had to notch mine on the left side.

Mine don't line up either. I just drilled new holes in the lower bracket. Can't see the bracket when the plate is on.

Yeah I like V8's too, but if the price was right I'd buy that and cruise it around with the I6.

Yeah I like V8's too, but if the price was right I'd buy that and cruise it around with the I6.

Gear Vendors is the only way I know of to turn a C6 into an overdrive transmission. Yes they're pricey. But they are bullet proof and can pretty much stand up to any abuse you can dish out to them.

Gear Vendors is the only way I know of to turn a C6 into an overdrive transmission. Yes they're pricey. But they are bullet proof and can pretty much stand up to any abuse you can dish out to them.

Restomod? Hell, clean it up and drive it. Looks like a real nice driver.

Truthfully, while stainless is nice I think it's a bit of overkill. Aluminized pipe will look will look good and not all rusted out like standard pipe does. Hell, I think most OEM's use aluminized pipe nowadays. And most of us don't drive these cars everyday.

If you just want it shorter, cut an inch off the threaded end and rethread it.

Boy does that bring back memories! After I'd put the patch in Except I went from the other side! I cut the front end of my car off and put a new firewall in.

With the arm screwed in, mark which way faces forward. Unscrew it and take it out. Bend it slightly towards where you marked front. Then screw it back in. That's what I did with my Lecarra wheel. Arms are cheap if you ever need to put a straight one back in.

It's spam. We all got it.

Sorry if my car is going to cost YOU some money! lol The Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust kit would have all the hangers and clamps. The tailpipes use brackets that bolt into existing holes in your frame rails. Then the mufflers use hangers that bolt through the transition pan (underneath the back seat). Any aftermarket dual exhaust system you put in will have to have holes drilled in the transition pan for the muffler hangers. It's not a big deal and if you ever wanted to at a later date, you could have them welded up. Hard to see in this picture, but this does show all the hardware the kit comes with, All you'd need a muffler shop to do is make the pipes to connect your manifolds to the kit and weld it all together. With the kit costing $415 at Summit, you'd probably be right around your figure of $550 by the time you were done with a muffler shop. With stock manifolds and a milder engine, the noise level wouldn't be as loud as mine. My car isn't really that loud under normal driving conditions. Remember in those videos I'm putting my foot into it. While i'm partial to Flowmaster mufflers, there are other similar quality brands out there with good sound. I just was very impressed with the kit's quality, fit and heavy gauge steel mufflers. And I've had very good experience with Flowmaster on my previous Mustang. Not to mention I love the sound of Flowmasters.

Ugh! Welcome to the club!

Check out this thread. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7364

$2,900 Something is fishy. Either it's an absolute rust bucket underneath, stolen, or it's a fake ad. No way anyone in their right mind is going to let a 69 vert in decent shape go for anything that low. There was a very rusty 69 vert near me that wasn't driveable and it disappeared in a flash at around $6,000.

Yes, I got one. Just spam. Don't click on the link.

I got the CD version of the 5 volume shop manual from ebay for $20 delivered. I own an original 70 Engine volume and an original 70 Chassis volume. I've had them for 25 years now. Wish I'd taken better care of them as they're kind of dirty now from my younger days.

I would recommend against using longer shackles for tire clearance issues. The long shackles are just a band aide fix and in my opinion, very cheesy looking.

If that's what you're going with, I have the same rim setup. I bought mine from Laurel Mountain Mustang for $679 for all 4 wheels with lug nuts and center caps. http://www.laurelmountainmustangparts.com/store/196973-magnum-wheel-15x7-15x8special-p-6927.html The wheels are made by Specialty Wheel of Oregon. I like the quality. I had issues with rubbing trying to put 235's on the front of my car. But I do have Global West Tubular upper control arms. I know there are other people that have no problems with the 235's on the front.

Nice looking car. I think you didn't have to roll your fender lips because your car sits higher in the rear than mine and Mikestang's car. In fact, I think my car might sit even slightly lower in the rear than Mikestang's.

I have 15x8's on the rear with 275/60/15 tires. I got just a little bit of rub. I did have to roll my fender lips. But I lowered the back of my car down a bit. The picture I posted in the previous post showed the car before I lowered the back about 1 inch.

I had/have much the same issues with my 70 as you have. I put a one piece floor pan, torque boxes, and all new steel from the firewall forward. I still need to do both my quarter panels, wheel houses, and trunk/transition floor piece. You can click on the link in my signature to my hub garage to see pictures of what I did with my car.

Nice looking car. No rub issues with those 235's up front? I had to run 215's up front to make sure I wasn't rubbing on the UCA. I do have Global West tubular UCA's.