maxum96

I just bought this a few months ago. Aluminum body, 15/16" bore with SAE ports. I had to buy 2 adapters from the auto parts store to connect to my brake lines. https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/master-cylinder-brake-system/p/duralast-new-brake-master-cylinder-nm2203/140290_0_0

I recently had the opposite problem, my brake lights were staying on. I figured out it was my aftermarket brake pushrod I'd just installed. The backside of the pushrod ring (where it attaches to your brake pedal) has a flat area. This is what contacts the brake light switch and activates it. In my case, the flat area was too thick and I just shaved it down about .030 to get the brake lights not to stick on. I suspect you have the opposite issue, too much play. Check the plastic bushing the brake pushrod uses where it attaches to the pedal. Perhaps you need to shim the brake light switch? I saw this done and they used a piece of thin metal folded around the face of the brake switch contact area.

I've always liked Mavericks and Comets. I've seen some modern interpretations of them that looked very tasteful. But all the Shelby scoops and ornaments on this one looks cheesy and gaudy to me.

I have a Daniel Carprenter grille on my 70. Nice piece for a reproduction.

I run Accufab headers with my AFR 205's on a 393W. I added 3 bolt collector rings and had them ceramic coated.

That is correct

Your car, do what you want. I'm going to put 70 Boss 302 hockey stick stripes on my car even though it's not a Boss. Personally, I like the 1969 Boss 302 stripes with or without the Boss 302 in it. If I had a 1969, I'd use the 69 stripes.

If you're talking about the interior trap door panels, that's not what I'm looking for. These are the structural steel components that the interior panels cover. And I have checked ebay. But thanks for the suggestion.

Exactly. I did a 1 piece floorpan and didn't have to add any extra bracing.

A 2500 stall converter only stalls that high when you are holding the car still and pushing on the throttle. It will not stall that high during normal driving. I ran a 4000 rpm converter on the street in a C6 years ago. But high stall converters do make more heat period. But they can be run on the street with add on trans coolers. A 2500 stall converter is not that extreme of a stall converter at all.

I'm in need of the two end panels that run from the inner wheel wells up to the rear divider/bulkhead that divides the trunk and back seat area. The bozo that was working on the car before me cut them out for some unknown reason. They're the two vertical panels on either side divider/bulkhead in the photo. Yes, I know you can buy new reproduction ones. But you have the buy the entire assembly and it would cost $350 when all I need are the two panels that are spot welded on. So if anyone has got a rusted/wrecked 69 or 70 fastback they're parting out, please drop me a pm. I'm working my rear quarters, wheel wells and trunk area and need these panels. Thanks

I run a TKO with 4.11 gears with a 28" tall tire. At 60mph I'm turning around 2200 rpm. Nothing like running a modern OD transmission in a vintage muscle car.

Another vote on Dan at Chockostang. I've talked with him on the phone over a brake issue. Extremely helpful and friendly. Sold me some parts at a very reasonable price.

Plus 2 on Dan at Chockostang.

Mine is directly behind the rear end center section. As others have mentioned, put it near the tank and level to or below the level of the tank outlet. And sorry, no pictures right now as my car is torn down at the moment.

Thanks. Cost me less than $25 to build (1" square tubing and casters from Harbor Freight). I used it as an excuse to teach my son in law to weld. I use my motorcycle jack to lift the rear end in and out of the cradle. That's why the rear is so open.

If you have the money to spend, I would suggest either a built up C4 or stock C6 with a Gear Vendors overdrive unit.

If you you have to have a nodular 9" 3rd member, get the Strange Pro Nodular version. It looks almost identical to the Ford N case and it's much beefier. This is what I run with a Daytona pinion support. Personally I feel it's not worth it to spend the money for an original N case unless you were needing it for an accurate restoration. The originals are all over 40 years old and probably been beat on in their lives. The Strange N case is much stronger than the originals ever were. Notice how much thicker the area around the pinion support bearing is with the Strange case? Also the carrier bearing area is thicker with much thicker caps. Plus metallurgy is better today than 50 years ago. Strange N case http://www.summitracing.com/parts/str-n1905 Ford N case My rear end

Do yourself a favor and replace them. It's probably weakened from being bent. I found my left shock tower and apron butchered after a hack repair job sometime in the past. I ended up replacing everything from the firewall forward. It's so nice have new straight sheetmetal to work with.

I cut a 1/4 turn out of both springs at a time. Then drive the car for a few miles and see how it sits. I think I ended up taking out about 1/2-3/4 turn. And cold cut the springs. No torches or plasma cutters. The heat screws up the temper of the springs. I cut mine with a die grinder.

Contrary to what someone else was saying about bottoming out with .620 springs, I run them and I'm lowered about 3 inches front and rear. And I have no issues with bottoming out the front end. I use Global West Tubular upper control arms.

No doubt. I should have known better than to answer him.

Do you really read and comprehend what other people post? My first post was in response to this, In case you need a recap here's what I wrote, Nothing was mentioned about crashes. You and I both talked talked about quality of handling. Try to stay on topic and not stray.

If you're talking about the Arning modification, aka "Shelby drop", you're dead wrong. Watch this video and you'll see why it's a good modification regardless of your driving style. Go to the 3:26 mark